[spaghetti]

If you ever decide, accomodation in Tuscany will be easy deal. And we may have luck in Lombardy too, since my family is scattered half in Tuscany and half in Lombardy ;-)
Ccn Jim: your Naples must be a wild place according to stories I've heard. Is it true that alligators swim up through water closets to bite your butts?

Back on topic, another octopus recipe that's good for the smaller ones: polipetti in umido (tiny octopuses in red sauce).
Mince garlic and white onion in very small pieces or transaperent thin slices, heat them up in a little olive oil. When the onions turn blonde (don't let them burn!!!) drop in a dozen of tiny young octopuses, heat them for a minute or two taking care the mix doesn't burn, then drop in a glass of dry white wine. When the wine has steamed off, drop in a can of tomato sauce, or a couple of finely minced fresh tomatoes, and a glass of water. Let it cook on low fire for half an hour, adding water if necessary to keep it liquid (rather gluey than liquid). Adjust with salt and pepper and your favourite spice. When ready, serve it on a "bed" of toasted bread. When it's over you will lick the dishes!!!