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Which exactly do you recommend: pored (poured?) track or all wood track, and what is a pored/poured track? I assume all wood track is just a slot cut on the table saw, or with a router?
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Poured track is cutting a channel into your stock then poring poxy (some add graphite powder to the mix) then routing the track (with a half-round), regular (wood) is cutting the track then routing or routing the track with a flute then routing with a half-round...the half round, set at the right depth gives you an enclosed route which IMO is better than a semi enclosed (open) track.
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What's the best way to laminate: All the pieces at once or two at a time or two together then on onto the two, etc. ?
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I lam all at once after ripping the wood I soak it and let it sit a couple of days, this lets the wood "have its way" read the warp and lam like this (), you can also lam pairs like()-() this then pair those to the others the next day
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Is it bad to have a shaft of just stainless and not of spring steel? I'm having a hard enough time finding someone to sell me stainless around where I live (I don't like buying on the internet).
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No SS is fine the only difference is Stainless Spring helds straighter longer and is very difficult to bend, IMO you get more for the $$$ with SSpring
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The trigger mech is not as complicated as it looks. Its basically the same as a simple trigger, but with a long pullrod attached to the trigger (which is now separate from the release lever) and the swing direction on the release lever is reversed. I think it will function well.
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This is one area I would not experiment with unless you are absolutely sure about the max load weight of your mech. compared to the actual load of your gun/s (<>100#/5/8) a misfire in the least is scary, to the extreme it can cost a fellow spearo his life...so make sure you spec it right (quite a bit of info here do a search) as well as the right SS 17-4 I think is the one, hopefully someone else will chime in
