Cold Water Boy Gets Warm

[feign]

It had been a long time since I had been in a warm ocean. Thirteen years in fact. The Red Sea is a memory from a long time ago when I was 17 years old. Since then I have been enjoying the underwater world in cold northern lakes and rivers and the cool coastal Pacific and Atlantic oceans. I think all of us enjoy the cold water up here. It’s usually never colder than 4 Celsius . There is something special about the cold water. It's quieter. Maybe this is because there are less people choosing to get in the water at those temperatures or maybe its how the cold slows the metabolism of the undersea. At the end of March-Apr I had the privilege of spending two weeks diving on the island of Kauai. There is something fabulous and great about warm ocean diving. It was accompanied by visibility greater than I would ever expect in the cold. Less neoprene and weight is liberating. The scenery is different. The temperature for me was 23-24 C. Here are some highlights from the trip:

The variety of game fish was impressive and diverse. I didn’t appreciate before why the warm water reef hunters in some areas will use guns like 110cm long, until I missed my first uku (grey snapper). I guess you learn how to tolerate the bigger gun around the rocks so that when you have the open shot on a nice fish that keeps its distance, you take it and have the range to get there. I had been using a riffe C#2 with one wrap of line and 2 bands when I missed the uku, with the spear falling short. After missing because of range, I changed the set-up to 2 wraps and 3 bands, so the next time I would be ready.

This brings up another point, the fish there behave differently. I spent one day diving, just getting accustomed to the various species and how to find and stalk them. Varied behavior of game species really made hunting interesting, challenging and rewarding. I was elated to get a nice uku (grey snapper) and an elusive mu (big-eye emperor), with the patience required. Despite my efforts there were those that beat me, those dang uhu (parrot fish). If only I had had a little more range…..

I must say that those that hunt these reefs are treated to some of the most delicate and best tasting fishes. The various goat fish species, of which I tried 3, had flaking meat that melted in the mouth with outstanding flavor. Uku flesh is worth its weight in gold in my mind and must be among the best white meat that I have ever eaten. I love to cook and I prepared our fish in various fashions from BBQ whole, pan-cooked fillets and deep fry, all amazing.

It was whale season. There were lots of sightings from shore of the big Humpbacks. But, the greatest part was diving down a good way off shore, aspetto on the bottom to the mesmerizing tune of the whales talking. Some times they were very loud, even vibrating tones could be felt. Being about a kilometer off shore, I had hoped that one would grace me with a visual appearance. I wasn’t that lucky, but knowing they were out there was very cool.

One morning, I had gone halfway out on the reef in about 50 feet of water when an inquisitive sub-adult monk seal came and circled me to go and examine my trailing float. I got back to him and had some face to face as I scrambled for my camera to take this shot (see below) as he decided to leave. The monk seals are an endangered species, with only a population in the 1000’s and about 50-60 that reside around Kauai. I was happy to see him that day, but didn’t realize at that time the full implication of meeting one of these particular mammals in the open sea until a few days later…….

So, I had finished an amazing morning of about 3+ hours of diving. The morning had ended, on my way back into shore, with my first bluefin trevally (omilu). Things couldn’t have been better. I was planning how I would prepare a fish feast for my family and friends tonight. My spear was out of its track, my float close by as I was bringing everything in to head back in to shore. As I turned and looked ocean side, the bright face of a full adult monk seal was fast approaching me and my float. He had a smile on his face. I new instantly what he had come for, and it wasn’t to play fetch. The blunt wood end of my gun managed to keep the seal away from my stringer of fish for several minutes. Constantly evading me and maneuvering to sink his face into my catch, I became increasingly tangled in mono and floatline as I was simultaneously trying to swim to shore, and keep the seal off the float. Finally, my fate was apparent and I succumbed to the 500lb beast. With the flick of his head he tore the fish off one by one effortlessly. He consumed them with disturbing ease. I was lucky to have my camera on the float and in the feeding frenzy I pulled it out and started shooting (see below). I thought to myself; just leave me the Trevally, that’s all I ask. Well, I guess he half listened, taking everything but the trevally head from the stringer. He left just as fast as he came, not saying thank you, but I knew he had enjoyed himself. It was a cool experience and I didn’t feel so sad when I thought that the meal was a small contribution to the preservation of that endangered species. The seal was a determined and powerful catch taker that I had underestimated. Another day, I had a 7 ft gray reef shark prowling around with speared fish in the water, but he kept distance.

Besides the diving, there were many other breathtaking sites and sounds including Waimea Canyon and the north shore. We had a peek at the Na Pali Coast during a hike, provoking me to plan a return to that area. I would love to return in a summer month when the surf is tame and venture on foot down the Na Pali coast line, diving those pristine waters.

What a great experience and vacation…sad to leave. I was greeted back at the airport in Edmonton with snow on the ground and the lakes still iced over. Home sweet home.

lee

[JPPLAY]

Very cool Lee. I especially like the picture of the seal nose touching the fish. I look forward to talking about this experience with you on a drive to a dive.

[wet]

Fantastic story! Thanks for sharing.

DD

[Huw]

Amazing post and pictures mate! hell of an experience right?


Huw

[IronLung]

Wow, I miss Kauai so much right now...

[iceselkie]

Amazing and inspiring Lee! Great post and pics

[Fondueset]

Great story Lee! Some excellent shots too. How did you stand that hot water?

[feign]

Originally Posted by Fondueset

How did you stand that hot water?

My skin is still scalded and peeling

[Amphibious]

damnit Lee, you're making me homesick. I really miss hunting the deep blue. wetsuit-less. 35m viz.... I'm going to need a minute.....

[feign]

My experience in Kauai was too good last year. We went back a year later on the 1st of April for two weeks. I have been meaning to post my experience, but work and more travel have distracted me. The anticipation to go to this tropical paradise was what allowed me to mentally survive this last winter, which seemed bitter and mean. Now as I write this, Edmonton is becoming a beautiful place, with lots of green and very long days to enjoy. It stays light past 10pm up here.

On this trip we spend several days in Honolulu, which was triggered by needing to accomplish some work related tasks on USA soil. It enabled us to see some of the sites in more detail on this island, but I was longing for Kauai again. I was amazed though, as I dove from shore right off the marina breakwater, right around the always busy Honolulu shoreline, that I found amazing life and reefs. Laying on a white sand channel with 50 foot visibility surrounded by rock and coral heads forming a canyon, I was greeted by close encounters of large schools of kala, multiple uhu and kumu. At this point I was wishing I had my speargun. I hadn't packed one with me, because one was being finished by Daryl Wong to be picked up the next day. This was a big highlight of my trip. Daryl graciously invited me over to his place to share in a bbq with his family, following which I was able to see his workshop and all the great guns in various stages that he makes. He is a great craftsman, and his kindness and customer service match the quality of his work.

Another highlight was being able to check out Maui sporting goods and Hanapa'a Hawaii, which are dedicated freedive spearfishing stores. I have been in stores that stock spearfishing equipment in California, but not to this level. We have nothing like this where I am from and it was a real treat. At Hanapa'a they were un-boxing and enveloping the next issue of Hawaii skin diver magazine. I was able to pick my copy early right there. The concept of the acceptance of freedive spearfishing as a mainstream sport (as it is in Hawaii), is so foreign to me. It made me feel a little more normal for a short time.

We then spent a week in Kauai. I was diving everyday. Only a 3mm suit was needed and the visibility was usually excellent. By our Alberta standards a bad day in Hawaii is awesome visibility. Again, the abundant life on the reefs was never boring. I was able to try some new spots, including off the north shore as conditions permitted. No monk seals this year, but there were more sharks. When I new there was some in the area I kept any fish catch out of the water strapped on top of my Omer atoll float. I was determined to not loose any fish this time. I only heard whales the first day as their migration must have taken them away.

We ate fresh fish every night while staying in a time share on the south shore. Some friends stayed with us and it is always more fun to cook and share the bounties of the sea with friends. Hiking again on the Na Pali coast was spectacular. We hiked this time into a 1000 foot falls to be caught in a torrential downpour and watched as multiple other new waterfalls appeared on the mountains and our trail turned into a small river. Now with the trip only a dream, I am already planning next year's trip. Although, life only got better coming home as I was soon off to Baja unexpectedly. More to post on that next time I get on here.

lee

[azapa]

great thread and nice story lee, I can't wait for the 2009 trip installment

[Erik]

Lee that sounds fabulous and the pics are stunning! Looking forward to hunting with you this summer.

[Fondueset]

Lee

Get an underwater camera!

[feign]

Originally Posted by Fondueset

Lee

Get an underwater camera!

Sorry to disappoint you Chris. I have one, but it conflicts with my speargun. If I had a dive buddy with me, it would have been great to switch off with the camera.

[Fondueset]

Bah.. it just takes practice Sure, sometimes the camera strap gets caught between the bands when you load your gun and your shoulder gets dislocated when you miss a huge tuna because you couldn't aim and the camera, which is attached to your wrist, goes with the spear - but at least your friends get to see how cool it was where you were trying to spearfish!

Bye the way, what gun are you using in your home waters these days?