Good diving sites in Miami (and everywhere north to Daytona

[Sasselhoff]

I have a business trip to Miami to do an Alumni function at the Marlins/Philly's on Friday the 18th. I get a free hotel on Friday night and the car is paid through Sunday morning.

I'm taking my little brother (not that little, he's 22 and can handle 40ft) hand my good buddy who don't do much free diving and are more into snorkeling. What are some good places that they they could handle (under 30ft), while still having something fun for me (60+)?

And most importantly, it has to be within beach swim...we don't have the funds for a boat rental. But, as the post mentions, we have to drive back to Daytona Beach...so anything from Miami to DB is good. But I'd prefer some good stuff in Miami, because I can do some extra work and get another night of hotel paid for and just dive more the next day if it rocks.

If this is in the wrong thread, my bad...thus is the shortcoming of an FNG. Ya'll can flog me later.

Cheers,
Joe

[ricki]

Hello Joe,

Sorry but there are no 30 ft. plus ledges that I know about within ready swimming distance of shore particularly for new divers in that area. There are few enough 30 ft. ledges in SE Florida come to think of it at distance from shore as well. You can hit a lot of reef areas from about 10 to 30 ft. of water within a 1/2 mile of shore off Ft. Lauderdale. You will probably not want to hit reefs off the guarded sections of beach due to lifeguard restrictions unless you have the required kit along with you. Otherwise there are some nice sections of reef around the Commercial Pier. Further north off Deerfield, there are some sugarloaf-like reefs in around 45 ft. of water. The current can be strong out there and it might be too much for your brother. You can easily end up a long distance down current and up the coast here. You will need a divers flag and float in any of these areas otherwise I think it is a $60. fine or worse a possible boat impact in this high rec boat traffic area. There are still other options, quite a few. I'll see if I can upload some details and images on some nearshore wrecks later on today in the area. Why not just book with a dive boat, it is far less costly than chartering your own boat rental? They may or may not hit reefs that cross all the depth ranges you listed.

I'll go off on some reef zonation and bathymetry below that may or may not be of interest but some operative depths and distances do appear there. I grew up in Ft. Lauderdale and spent most of my time on reefs in northern Broward County and southern Palm Beach Country, so most of the comments will be directed to those areas. It's on my mind anyway so here goes.

Off Ft. Lauderdale, there are three reef terraces, the First Reef starting as close as 100 ft. offshore and extending to around 1/4 mile. Depths on this terrace range from 8 ft. to about 15 ft. The first reef is largely of beach rock, Sabellariid worm rock and algae accretions. There are some scattered reef building corals, hermatypes but the other sources of rock are more prevalent. There are some small ledges and sand bottomed "pothole" solution features in portions of this reef.

There is an intervening sand filled lagoon going out to the Second Reef starting around 3/8 mile to a bit more than 1/2 mile. This was back when the terraces formed barrier reefs of sorts. Depths on the second terrace range typically from around 15 ft. to 30 ft. This reef was historically formed from reef building corals similar to those that thrived along the Florida Reef Tract in the Keys. That is until a broad (global?) die off of staghorn and elkhorn (Acropora) corals in the mid 1980's. These corals, aside from some staghorn areas that actually seem to be doing better these days (warmer water?). In the case of Broward County reefs the loss of viable Acropora reef mass died off perhaps around 10,000 years BP with sea level rising, along with more turbid, cooler waters. In recent times some of the more robust hermatypic corals and crustose algae have taken up primary reef building along the second terrace. There is a fairly uniform seaward facing ledge in about 15 to 20 ft. along one section of the terrace, with other deeper ledges and "pothole" features, spurs and groves outside this inner ledge.

There is a second sand filled lagoon taking you out to the Third Reef at around 3/4 to 1 1/4 mile. This reef typically ranges from 45 to 90 ft.. I shares historical and contemporary formation characteristics with the second terrace. Although given greater water depths current reef forming coral activity may be lesser than present on the second terrace. There are spur and grove features along the outside of this reef, walls on the outer side on the order or 5 to 15 ft. Up off Jupiter I recall they may exceed that slightly but that is way north and in a high current environment as a rule. There are quite a few artificial reefs in and beyond the outer reaches of the Third Reef.

These distances and depths are variable along the coast as you proceed from South Miami up through Central West Palm Beach. As a rule of thumb, the further north you go, the closer to shore they come within limits. That is until around Central West Palm Beach when the shelf begins to widen as the coastline recedes to the west up towards Georgia. The deeper reaches fall further from shore as you proceed northward from Palm Beach County usually well beyond ready beach diving. The first reef vanishes, from the ocean anyway, at Hillsboro Inlet where it goes inland, underlying the north inlet jetty and the coastal dune northward. So, north of Hillsboro Inlet it might be said that there are two primary reef terraces. Also, there is usually more current due to a narrower coastal shelf and with the Florida Current coming all the much closer to the shoreline as a result.

So, there are quite a few generalities presented above which naturally come with exceptions in some areas. Still, it is an interesting reef system and area worth exploring. Add in the wrecks and you have a lot of prospects to checkout.

[Sasselhoff]

What a thorough response! Thanks much for such a in-depth response to my question. And honestly, I found the reef zonation and bathymetry (course, I had to look up the definitions first!) to be rather facinating. Where did you come by such detailed, albeit eclectic, information?

[ricki]

Too thorough and a bit skewed toward reef geology but as I said I was thinking about it. Reef ecology and geology were particular passions when I was growing up. Also I used to work on lot of reef studies in Florida and surrounding areas years back. Hope your trip works out well for you.

[Sasselhoff]

Nah, I'm a super geek when it comes to stuff like that. I'm quite the wealth of useless information (well, useless for me in the business/corporate world, maybe not for someone who works in that industry) so I dig things like that.

The sites you mentioned that were pretty shallow (under 20ft) and close to the beach; is there enough wildlife on them to make it an interesting dive, or are they just hunks of ex-reef (not talking about the makeup, you mentioned what they were made of, I'm talking wildlife) in the water with a few fish swimming around?

If so, we might just try to find a snorkeling dive boat and cough up the $20-30 per person for the couple hour trip (like you mention might be a good idea) so we don't have to deal with the BS of current and idiot boaters.

I'm pretty sure that we would be happy with the shallow and close reefs if they are anywhere near alive (especially because my buddy that is coming with my brother and I has equalizing issues and is a smoker). And I'd love to try out my new spear gun (never gone spearfishing before) on something tasty (and legal of course, I've got to do my homework before I go), hence the interest in a lively reef!

Thanks and Cheers,
Joe

[ricki]

I used to have a milk run I was fond of off Lauderdale By-The-Sea, map lauderdale by the sea - Google Maps . It involves some swimming but if the current is with you it isn't that bad. I would start at Hibiscus Street or one of the other two side streets with parking south of Commercial Blvd. I would swim out to the outer second reef about 0.75 miles offshore. That is the one with all the mooring balls on intermittently extending north to south. On the way out there you will cross over the first reef, largely low profile with limited fish and corals, the inner second reef with more life, cross a sand patch and then end up on a reef with a 5 to 8 ft. west facing ledge, large diameter sand bottomed potholes ringed with ledges and then spur and groove reef features on the eastern edge of the second reef. It is best to do this with no current or a northerly running current. If you head out and there is much of a southerly current, I would stay put or arch south a ways. I would go along the outer second reef with trends closer to shore until I would come up to the Sea Watch Restaurant. There the western facing ledge peters out and is replaced by the wreck of the Copanhagen. The wreck has been blasted to flat plate still it is an interesting dive with a fair amount of fish.

More at:
SS Copenhagen (shipwreck)--Florida Shipwrecks: 300 Years of Maritime History: A National Register of Historic Places Travel Itinerary
Diving… The Wreck of the SS Copenhagen

The Sea Watch serves up a mean lunch with great seafood dishes and a nice ocean view btw. Recommend the open air patio area, you'll likely have to change though. It is just east of Ocean Bay Club Drive in LBTS. You'll be up for a walk back south unless you can arrange transport nearby. It's about 1.7 miles one way as the crow flies and including out, back and down the reef a bit over 3 miles. It can be real relaxing despite that if you are used to cruising while free diving. If you don't feel like doing the milk run, there is still a fair amount to see up to and in line with the end of the fishing pier at the end of Commercial Blvd.. The condition and relief of the reef improves on the outer second reef further out however. It is a bit of a swim but if you like that sort of thing it is a good session.

There are a lot of fish, corals and life in general along this run. We have similar corals and fish to the Keys in this area just with varying quantities. It kept me pretty engaged for a couple of decades so it should be worth a visit. Regarding fish to shoot, maybe. Just be sure to have someway of getting them out of the water so you aren't trailing blood for a couple of hours along the reef. Not a lot of sharks other than nurse this time of year and even fewer shark incidents off this area on the inner reefs. Still, it is possible to set yourself for an interesting encounter if you work at it. Depths will range over reefs from about 10 ft. to perhaps 25 ft. at the most., averaging around 15 to 20 ft. in spots.

There is another shorter shore dive but interesting in a different way further south off Ft. Lauderdale. It consists of going out to the aerojack groin which extends between the outer first and inner second reefs. It was built in the 1960's to inhibit beach erosion. Its about 1100 ft. long and as high as about 10 ft. off the bottom extending roughly east to west. About 200 ft. north of the eastern end of the jacks along the inner edge of the reef you'll find a barge wreck. The bow section is still intact. Some photos appear at: Launch "Inverted!" - A Look Underwater - FKA Kiteboarding Forums under the third post. You can see the jacks and some of the barge. The jacks start about 1/4 to 3/8 mile east of the bathhouse shown at: 801 Seabreeze Blvd Fort Lauderdale, FL 33316 - Google Maps You will need a flag, flotation vests to get past the lifeguards during hours. Before or after you're on your own. There are normally no buoys on the aerojacks and may or may not be boats on it. As you swim out parallel to it you can even miss it. Sometimes I start a bit south of the bathhouse and swim out past the first reef and into the sand channel. Then I swim north and hit it.

If this sounds like too much work, checkout one of the local dive boats. Just book early and make sure they are going somewhere that appeals to you guys. They sell out early fairly often.

Have fun,
Rick

[Sasselhoff]

I actually reserved a hotel in Ft Lauderdale before I read your last post, boy was my ESP working! The hotel is almost exactly where you say you go off the beach for the shallow diving (which will work fine, I'll enjoy myself plenty and that is really all they can handle anyway)! The hotel is at the intersection of SR870 and US1, so I couldn't have planned that better if I tried!

You mentioned floatation devices if we head south to check out the other man-made aerojack, if I am using a boogie board as a diving flag platform (I want it HIGH out of the water) does that count?

Can you think of any other cool spots? We will be right outside Key Biscane and thought we'd see if there was anything there on Saturday before we head up the coast to Ft Lauderdale for Saturday night and Sunday diving.

Oh yeah, and as a born and raised Ft Lauderdalian, my dad was very familiar with the reef stuff you were mentioning! He just doesn't dive and wouldn't know where to go! He just knew where to not ground his boat!

Thanks again for such a wealth of detailed info. This should turn into a good trip.

Cheers,
Joe

[ricki]

Hello Joe,

I just called Ft. Lauderdale Ocean Rescue about current requirements. When I was a kid, the changed them each time I asked to stop me from going off shore. Didn't work.

Anyway, they currently require a partner, a divers flag (on a buoy) and a "flotation vest." The lady I spoke to said that would include a bogie board. Strange but that is what she said. You need the flag, state law, more importantly if you don't have one it is easy to get hit. A guy lost both legs to a boat prop just south of here off Dania some years back.

There are many spots off Ft. Lauderdale Beach worth checking out. Just listed two of them. Another would be to head off Las Olas Blvd. about 600 ft. to what I call the Beach Bizarre Reef. The Bizarre has been gone for years but the reef is still there. It consists of a series of shallow, less than 12 ft. deep sand filled potholes with about a 3 ft. eastern ledge. It is an easy quick dive, something for your brother perhaps.

Another more challenging one is off the Sheraton Yankee Trader Hotel about 3/8 mile north. The 1rst. and inner 2 nd. reefs are unremarkable but the outer second has similar reef forms and depths to those I described around Commercial Blvd. about 3/4 mile offshore. I was once in this area on the inner reefs in a thick fog when I was 16 free diving. We have thick fog for a few hours perhaps 1 to 3 days a year, maybe. I kept hearing these fog horns. When the fog lifted I saw a cruise ship hard aground about a 1/4 mile east of me. You could swim completely under the ship as it bull dozed sand all over the place and left a 3 ft. high gap beneath the kneel to swim through.

The same thing could be said about the outer second reef off Sunrise Blvd about a 1/2 mile further north. Although in that case the outer portion of the first reef about 800 ft. off has quite a bit of coral heads and fish to look at. There are mooring balls on the outer second reef in both of these cases to serve as landmarks. I used to reliably find free swimming sharks roughly between the two spots about 500 ft. off the beach on a flat featureless stretch of first reef, mainly in the cooler months though. Right now, I would be surprised if you would find any.

Another spot about a 1 1/2 mile further north is a west facing ledge about 4 to 6 ft. roughly 800 ft. off the north end of the public beach. The water is about 12 to 16 ft. deep. Basically where you see the first building on the sand north of Sunrise Blvd. that's it.

Your hotel is near an old favorite restaurant, Ernies or Dirty Ernies as locals call it. They have good conch chowder, Bimini Bread and barbaque sandwiches. Another good place is just east on SE 17 th St., Giorgios's and the sushi place next door is pretty good too.

That should get you started. Rick

[ricki]

A few more things I should have mentioned. You may be able to rent a dive flag and buoy at Lauderdale Diver or Brownies Dive Shop both on or very near SE 17 th St. near your hotel.

There can be a lot of boat traffic off Ft. Lauderdale and surrounding areas. Usually the later it is on weekends the worse the operators can be. Weekdays in the mornings are usually the lightest times for traffic. On weekends, generally if you get out early many of the idiots are still sleeping last nights festivities off. They show up later in the morning and throughout the afternoon on weekends.

Cigarettes and waverunners are to be treated with particular caution. Cigarettes because at cruising speed you hear them a short time before they are on you and waverunners because there often isn't much awareness or seamanship among operators. That also applies to some of the cigarette operators as well.

You should make a habit out of swimming underwater regularly just below the surface to listen for engine noise. On a clear, calm day you can hear small motor craft over a mile away. With waves that distance is reduced. I make a habit about whenever I hear a boat to surface, figure out where it is and where it is heading. If it is heading towards me I watch it. If I have any doubt about it seeing me or my flag I may splash until they do see me. It sounds like a pain in the butt, it is but so is relying solely on boats for dive transport. You miss a lot of good stuff and conditioning boating all the time.

Last point, for guys that want to do this sort of thing regularly, you want to be an able, independent free diver. This means having strong swimming skills but no matter how strong a swimmer you are sometimes things go wrong. That is where plan B helps, I try to wear a low profile navy swimmers vest. It has little drag and if things really go south far from shore and boats, it might make a difference. After doing this stuff for decades, I've never been fond of dragging kayaks, rafts, paddleboards, etc. along preferring to stay in the water. Personal choice but that vest may help if things go wrong.