first attempt plans?

[Sbuoncristiani]

Hi all,

I’m about to attempt to create my first teak stock and I wanted to save myself some frustration and check my over all plan with others more experienced than myself (seeing how I have none whatsoever). I bought a copy of the Alexander plans and I plan on copying his 46” model.

My general plan is a 46” x 1.5” x 1.25” stock with an open track and two bands. I’ll spare you the rest of the details.

So far this is what I’m planning to do:
The teak come pre planned and cut at 1/2” pieces so I’m planning on laminating three pieces together. Then I plan on letting it stand, for a week or so, then cutting the stock so it is 1/8” larger on both dimensions and an inch longer than my final size. Let it age for a few months or so, then shim off the bowed edges that develop. Then next, cut the trigger mechanism slot with a mortise attachment on a drill press.
a few questions.
a.) Mortise head attachments leave a messy mangled look at the base of each cut. How would I clean that up? A chisel?
b.) How am I to cut the line release slot?

After, use the drill press to cut the band slot holes. Next, with a router table, cut the track carefully and then router the edges of the stock for a cleaner look. After, sand it up, finish and put on the hardware.

I’ve done about all the reading I could find but it would definitely save me a lot of time and money if you could point out any flaws in my general plan.

Thanks for your help,
Sbuoncristiani

[gator]

Sbuoncristiani,

With speargun making, the "devil is in the details" as you seem aware. I don't know what level of detail is in the Alexander plans, but I will throw out some things off the top of my head.

Read all the threads on proper lamination techniques..ie .only rough between the laminations, clean teak with acetone, use west system epoxy or other high quality epoxy. I like to have 1/4" laminations and like to reverse the grain others like to use the T system of lamination.

My last gun I made (see speargun pics under the homemade thread) had 6 laminations and I found it very useful to have a piece of alluminum angle iron same length of stock to square and clamp the laminations against as they cured. Have seveal quick clamps available...I used a clamp every 6 inches.

Put about 3 layers of blue (easily removable) masking tape over the outermost layers of teak (what will become the finished sides) before laminating to protect the teak from glue soaking/staining and to protect teak from misc. scratches and dent occuring during machining (only remove when you are ready to work on your finnish. Masking tape over wood also prevents splintering when cutting. routing, and drilling.

When mortising, experiment with a few things...1 use masking tape wrapped tightly around the stock a drill through it. You can also try mortising opposite sides of the stock and meeting in the middle(if you have the precision tools) this can be difficult. Or finally, tightly clamp another piece of dense scrap wood to the bottom of the stock where the mortise bit will exit and drill stright through the stock into the scrap. Sharp blades/bits on all tools are always a must!

As far as the line release slot, I didnt have a mortise that small so I think i used a drill press followed by a dremmel with a long carbide grinding bit to clean it up...followed by an exacto knife. This was a pain....just start smaller than you finnshed hole becuase this can quickly get away form you...Maybe others have a suggestion in this area?

Finishing has its own challenges. Many including myself have posted our favorite finishing techniques recently so try a search on those threads.

Finally, take the time to practice on a stock made of scrap wood ...its much cheaper than teak. And finally, remember to "measure twice, cut once"

Good luck

[Sbuoncristiani]

Thank you for your advice.

Regarding laminates, are the interior planed edges sanded with rough grit before applying the epoxy? Also, are all the pieces to be glued and clamped at the same time? or is it more beneficial to glue, clamp and dry each individual piece one at a time?

What type of table saw blades are more appropriate for teak in your experience?

[persiko]

some answer to your questions you can find it here
www.arbalegno.com
ciao

[gator]

I was trying to say to rough sand and then clean with acetone the inside edges that are to be glued...it helps to form a stronger bond. Also, its better to glue them up all at once to save time if nothing else and to keep the stock straight. I think individual pieces at a time would be more apt to warp. But, like I mentioned, you might want to use a piece of angle iron use as a form to clamp all the slats of wood to. It really keeps the pieces from sliding around.