New Guns in the works

[settingsteel]

Originally Posted by frogmansailor

Question: Can the track be square bottomed (ie. cut with a table saw w/ thick blade) or should it be a half round from the router? The table saw cut would be easier to cut straight... but if it should be half-round there's no point in cutting corners if it sacrifices accuracy.

If you use a delrin track then you need a dovetail in which the track (delrin) slides in, as Pastor mentioned I wouldn't invest in one, and the front (muzzle end) can use use some delrin or UHMW (thats the white cutting board material), but that is not necessary either, just leave the front 6" open (as opposed to enclosed). 2 ways to cut the track, 2 rip passes with the tablesaw enough for the shank of your half-round to fit in (this will also serve as the guide for the half round bit to do its work), or 1 pass on a router table with a 1/4" flute then a second pass with the half-round. If you want to make it enclosed (that is if you turn the gun upside down the shaft won't fall out) then your first cut (followed by the half-round) has to be 1/4"-7/32" max, this will then provide "enclosure for a 9/32" and a 5/16" shaft. On a side note I would first route/chisel the slot for the trig mech, then do the track.

As for the square bottom I guess it would be OK (I think the Riffes are) but that would rule out the enclosed track, this would be more like a "rail" which is OK too better than nothing (as for accuracy), Also note that you can poxy the gun or mix an absorbing poxy blend, whichever you do you need to add a UV protector since poxy has none (except West System 207...I think)

So the difference between the two is just that one has epoxy (and sometimes graphite powder) as the material that the shaft is sliding on and the other is just the wood?...And I still can't quite tell which one you think is better: the poured or the regular?

Yes thats correct, and I think not much difference other than the wood track is easier to make and its what I would go with IMO

Frogmansailor, hope this helps, I'm by no means an expert, I would strongly suggest you read the other threads on gun making, on this board, since most of the stuff discussed here has already been, and I would first do a cheap pine wood sample (which will later allow you to easily dup the cuts) before using your mahagony...just my 2 centavos mate...good luck

[frogmansailor]

Thank you for all the help here, settingsteel, I have been around on the other threads, but I just want to make sure I get everything right here.

I was planning on doing an epoxy finish (diluted 10%) until thoroughly filled and then cover it with a marine spar varnish (UV protectant). It's the same coating that I used on my touring kayak (also mahogany).

So if I want an enclosed track I should cut the trigger slot first then do a pass with a 7/32", then do a second pass with a 5/16" (the same as my shaft) half round to make a mostly enclosed cross section? (see pic attached)

I really appreciate all this, I don't need an expert, just someone who has actually seen a speargun in real life before. Yes I'm building my first gun (first in both respects- build and used). I know it isn't the smartest thing to do, but whatever. Any info is helpful and appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

[foxfish]

Dude if you have any spare cash = Enclosed UHMW Track for Spearguns

[frogmansailor]

Hmmmmmm...

[settingsteel]

Originally Posted by frogmansailor

Thank you for all the help here, settingsteel, I have been around on the other threads, but I just want to make sure I get everything right here.

I was planning on doing an epoxy finish (diluted 10%) until thoroughly filled and then cover it with a marine spar varnish (UV protectant). It's the same coating that I used on my touring kayak (also mahogany).

So if I want an enclosed track I should cut the trigger slot first then do a pass with a 7/32", then do a second pass with a 5/16" (the same as my shaft) half round to make a mostly enclosed cross section? (see pic attached)

I really appreciate all this, I don't need an expert, just someone who has actually seen a speargun in real life before. Yes I'm building my first gun (first in both respects- build and used). I know it isn't the smartest thing to do, but whatever. Any info is helpful and appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

Thats it exactly

I would if possible, make your first pass a bit deeper so as to create a thicker "lip" on the top part of the track, which if hit with the shaft might crack it, also the last 4"-6" (muzzle...speaking of which have you decided on how the bands will align on the barrel, it may have an influence on the end product) should be open so just pass 5/16" bit a little less deep to open it up (personally I also open the last 2" be the trig mech.)...also the bit you want to use is posted in another thread by fox, 5/16 is way to big...and hey man I think its a great idea to build your own, I'm starting a few carbon/teak ones now...IMO full delrin or UHMH (cutting board material)is a waste of $$$, perhaps just the 4-6" of muzzle is all I would do if any, if you decide this avenue you need to dovetail a slot for the UHMH...good luck

[Pastor]

Originally Posted by frogmansailor

So if I want an enclosed track I should cut the trigger slot first then do a pass with a 7/32", then do a second pass with a 5/16" (the same as my shaft) half round to make a mostly enclosed cross section? (see pic attached)

The trigger should be cut first yes. Next cut a standard slot the same width as the opening as the neck of your track, then with a single cut use the ball cutter to cut your track. Be ultra careful doing that as there will be zero tolerance for mistakes. A trick to keep everything aligned is not to move any of the guide fences during the build, just keep them where they are and work off your datum edge and everything will align up perfectly

[frogmansailor]

Great! I'm all set to get right down to it.... but I have to wait for the wood to sit. haha Oh well. Ce la vie right? I think I might get to work on my trigger mechs in the mean time. I have access to a computer controlled laser cutter!!! : )

Thanks for all the help guys.

[settingsteel]

Originally Posted by frogmansailor

Great! I'm all set to get right down to it.... but I have to wait for the wood to sit. haha Oh well. Ce la vie right? I think I might get to work on my trigger mechs in the mean time. I have access to a computer controlled laser cutter!!! : )

Thanks for all the help guys.

YOU GO BOY

[frogmansailor]

Bad News!!

It turns out I will not be able to use my schools CCE machines to make my triggers. They can't cut stainless!! So I'll be buying some premade ones

So it won't be a completely homemade gun... I think I'll live.

So who wants to tell me about these triggers. Any experiences w/them etc.? Which do you recommend for my 90cm gun and which from my 60" gun? Since the 60" gun is going to be a mid-handle, what triggers offer a release behind the trigger?

Also, should I put the line release on the right side or the left side or is it just personal preference? (I'm right handed if that helps)

Neptonic Speargun Trigger

Alexander Mech (from Speargun Parts and Accessories?) **are these reputable sites?**

Riffe mid handle kit (also from Speargun Parts and Accessories?)

AB Biller Spear gun replacement parts

In advance, thanks for sharing your opinions of what would be best for my guns!

[settingsteel]

OHHHH no man, that is very bad news....I'd go ahead and abandon the project its just not gonna have the same chi, it won't set right in your mind and thats gonna influence your shooting, it could ultimately gosh what can we do...

tell Steve to hook you up great trigs with auto reset poseidonsub spearguns, custome spearguns madet to order.

[frogmansailor]

Ooo! I like it! I think I'll send him an email right now. : D

[settingsteel]

YOU GO BOY

[riffehunter717]

for an enclosed track how much bigger than the shaft do you want to cut the track, and this might sound dumb but what is the easiest way to cut the box for the trigger mech.

[frogmansailor]

I was wondering the same about the track size, and the best way to cut the box for the trigger mech is first with the router and then with a sharp set of chisels. IMO.

[riffehunter717]

what router bit should i use