New Guns in the works

[frogmansailor]

Just use something to take out most of the wood (stay away from the edges) and make a general shape. Then cut to exat dimensions (checking w/mech dryfit) with the chisels. Go slow! and don't screw it up... haha just kidding, just take your time and it will work great.

use a bit like this (skinnier than the one in the pic, obviously), or anything with a flat bottom-Routerbits.com,Inc Products

[foxfish]

I cut the trigger slot before the laminates are glued together, I use commercially made enclosed tracks!
I guess you guys did not want to here that?
You will obviously need the trigger mechanism before you can cut the slot but after that it is basic carpentry.
For an enclosed track - well setinsteel has one solution but I think it is a complex operation that involves so many criteria it makes my head swim!
However as a rough guild - a .5mm film of water surrounding the spear will potentially offer good performance.
Open tracks are very tried & tested & the preferred method of virtually all he mass production spearguns, that must tell you something?

[frogmansailor]

Yeah, the more I've been looking around, I'm starting to think that I'm just going to use a partially enclosed track so that I can use a spear that doesn't have shark tabs (which are harder to find), and it will be easier to make. Any thoughts anyone?

[riffehunter717]

Originally Posted by frogmansailor

Yeah, the more I've been looking around, I'm starting to think that I'm just going to use a partially enclosed track so that I can use a spear that doesn't have shark tabs (which are harder to find), and it will be easier to make. Any thoughts anyone?

Im thinkin 2/3 ENCLOSED but opposite of what your are thinking that way close shots can be taken without busting the track. if you do it so you dont need shark fins as the bands ride up the enclosed track they will slip off the shaft early and you will lose power, if im thinkin of what your thinking

[CFHunter]

Hey just to give you an alternate view on some gun ideas, when i was contemplating building a wood mid handled, i stumbled across this guys website,
spearotiki
hes got gorgeous guns, all hand carved and looks like a lot of time went into em, but better yet hes got a technical guide for building a gun with photos, and also sells whole kits, all the hard ware, or trigger mechanisms for mid handles, handles, the whole bit, if i wasnt so strapped for cash now i try to build one immediately. Hope this helps a lil, plus email the guy he responds back with plenty of info. Good luck on the gun- Chris

[Pastor]

Originally Posted by frogmansailor

Yeah, the more I've been looking around, I'm starting to think that I'm just going to use a partially enclosed track so that I can use a spear that doesn't have shark tabs (which are harder to find), and it will be easier to make. Any thoughts anyone?

I think if you're new to making guns then try to keep it simple the first time. Once you have made one and it works you will want to make more an better. I would recommend the open track rather than the fully enclosed track for now. However since I bought the gun in my signature I have been very surprised at the difference between the two types. So maybe in the future you might want to go the extra mile and do the fully enclosed.

[frogmansailor]

Wow, he's quite an artist. Great pics.

What I was talking about for the partially enclosed would be something like the cross section I have attached. Enclosed enough to help it stay guided, but open enough to not have to use shark fin spears. I haven't decided for sure, and I still may go with an enclosed (except for like 8" at the muzzle).

[riffehunter717]

oh ok, i misunderstood you i thought you meant open track tapering to a fully enclosed. mine is going to be fully enclosed for 2/3 of the gun then the rest will taper to open track, that way if i take a really close shot it will not bust the track off my gun.(if the spear clears the track before it hits the fish

[riffehunter717]

the clamps are off my gun today, will be posting a couple pix later(the camera batteries are dead and i cant move pix to computer)

[frogmansailor]

I finished my second lam (the 90cm gun) and would post pics, but it looks exactly like the other lam pics (just w/ 5 lams instead of 6 and shorter). I'm waiting on my trigger, spear, and bands. I'll keep everyone updated. I did, however, finish a new sheath for my knife. I use the SEAL pup knife from SOG, and the sheath that came with it (the old one, not the newer ones) isn't well suited to leg attachment (very thick) so I used some really cool material my buddy got for me (it's some sort of mold-able white plastic used to make splints in hospitals) I just put it in boiling water then layed it over my knife voilà! sweet sheath.

[riffehunter717]

cant quite figure out how to get pictures attached

[frogmansailor]

You have to click "go advanced" and then scroll down past the editing window to a small box that says "manage attachments" click that, and another small window will pop up (make sure you allow pop ups) on there you click upload photo.

Or you can attach a photo from a html (as in it's already on the internet and you just want to link to it) then you just go to the pic you want right click it and go to properties then copy the link into the html box on the post edit screen.

[frogmansailor]

A couple questions:
1. if I want an open track, can I use a 1/4" round end router bit, and just have the bit move the extra distance left and right (1/32" total) to fit a 9/32" shaft?

2. Good places to buy a spear 100cm +-, 9/32", hawaiian or tahitian tip, no shark fins necessary, that will work with a poseidon sub trigger mech? I was looking at the picasso tahitian 7mm in 115cm. Are they good spears? Will that work well with two 16" +-, 9/16" bands?

3. Will it be strong enough to have my whole handle/trigger be a separate piece that I attach to the back of the stock with 1/2" thick aluminum plate, bolts/screws, and epoxy? Looking at pictures like the one below make me think it would be strong enough... it looks like this handle is just screwed on...

the aluminum piece will be the whole handle, and have two bolts each through the stock and the handle. The picture below (courtesy of time spent in paint) i think will help explain what I'm asking. The grey is aluminum, everything else is labeled. Would this work?

[settingsteel]

1. if I want an open track, can I use a 1/4" round end router bit, and just have the bit move the extra distance left and right (1/32" total) to fit a 9/32" shaft?

you probably can, if I recall (been awhile since I've gone open track), with just one pass (no need to go L/R with multi passes), Have you considered a Riffe Euro (17/64" If not mistaken) that will surely fit and is a hell of speedster

2. Good places to buy a spear 100cm +-, 9/32", hawaiian or tahitian tip, no shark fins necessary, that will work with a poseidon sub trigger mech? I was looking at the picasso tahitian 7mm in 115cm. Are they good spears? Will that work well with two 16" +-, 9/16" bands?

Google Ray Odor shafts, why no fins or pins???, in a track the depth is crucial with notched spears, more forgiving with fins/pins as well as have 2 options of tying line. Steve's trig works fine on both RO and Riffe, the euro shaft above (17/64") is notched with tiny fins (kinda hybrid I guess) bands dia. are fine, 16" length dependent on gun

3. Will it be strong enough to have my whole handle/trigger be a separate piece that I attach to the back of the stock with 1/2" thick aluminum plate, bolts/screws, and epoxy? Looking at pictures like the one below make me think it would be strong enough... it looks like this handle is just screwed on...

yes it should be, don't need the poxy, but guess it wouldn't hurt (just won't be removable for travel), why not buy a white "plastic" cutting board and make your handle outa that better IMO


the aluminum piece will be the whole handle, and have two bolts each through the stock and the handle. The picture below (courtesy of time spent in paint) i think will help explain what I'm asking. The grey is aluminum, everything else is labeled. Would this work?[/quote]

[foxfish]

Originally Posted by frogmansailor

A couple questions:
1. if I want an open track, can I use a 1/4" round end router bit, and just have the bit move the extra distance left and right (1/32" total) to fit a 9/32" shaft?

2. Good places to buy a spear

3. Will it be strong enough to have my whole handle/trigger be a separate piece that I attach to the back of the stock. Would this work?

You only need to cut a shallow half round for the spear to sit in, one way would be to use the cutter you have then wrap some fine sandpaper around your spear & sand the correct fitment IE 6.5mm spear = 7mm diameter round.
I cant believe you cant find a mail order company that stocks suitable spears?
I dont fully understand what you are trying to do but yes you can join the handle, trigger unit to the stock?