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#1
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Hey guys this is my first thread and this topis is basicly the main reason that i sighned up to deepblue. I was recently spearing on a beach with my mates south of sydney and we where inside a school of australian salmon. Now heres the bit that f.....g pisses me off , i am an extremely experienced spearfisherman but i need to learn more about the ways of a speargun since i have transfered over from handspear to gun around 4 years ago and i still have much to learn about them. I had a Omar excalibar 130cm with a rob allen shaft. when i was in the school i couldn't hit one fish on target, i was penitrating the tail or lower belly allowing the strong salmon to rip themselves off the shaft.
I know that i shouldn't be blaming my gun but i have been reading about how larger guns can shoot off target with the triger mechanism being not of high quality or of the gun just being hard to travel because of its size. I usually spear in reefs and rock areas and somewhat venture mildly into bluewater. my final question is , what are some techniques that u do that can help improve ur shot and accuracy on a moving target, and what would be a good gun for accuracy, im thinking the rob allen 110cm sparid. Last edited by Pastor; November 22nd, 2007 at 14:16. Reason: Language |
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#2
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Hiya
Lets start off with your gun. Is it accurate when you're shooting reef fish or slow moving fish? The easiest way to check would be to make a stationary target and shoot at it a couple of time, taking note of where the spear penetrates it. Many things can influence the accuracy of a gun. A bent spear, your flopper being flared open too much, over-powering the gun, incorrect aiming, etc, etc. Generally, a euro-type gun should be able to handle a maximum of 2x16mm bands or a single 20mm band. The longer length guns, like your 130cm Omer, is prone to barrel flex, especially the alluminuim barrels. Often its the spearo's aiming that isn't correct. With railguns i tend to aim down the side. Its difficult to explain, but i'll try: when aiming over the top of your gun, you have a smaller target to hit, where-as aiming down the side of your barrel, the whole length of your fish is the target, offering you a greater chance of hitting the fish should your aim be off. A easy way is to turn your gun on its side, like the cool gangsters shoot in the movies!! Once you get accustomed to your gun and how it fires, you'll pretty soon stop aiming and start shooting instinctively. Pretty much like when you point at an object with your finger, you point the gun and your spear will hit where you're looking. (Many spearo's shoot this way, but it takes time to practice and time to get to know your gun!! Happy hunting!! Regards miles
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Deeper Blue Hunting Forum Mentor and Titan of Tuna! Facts? FACTS?!? Don't confuse the issue with facts! Facts are immaterial! Facts are boring! Facts are no fun at all! - bdurrett (June 2005) |
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#4
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what do i know, but on moving fish shoot for their "noses" and you'll probably end up with a nice gill plate hit.. works, sometimes, for me
PS: don't try to aim the gun. just point and shoot reaction style. Aiming is fine for static targets where you can straighten your arm, line up the sights, and squeeze the trigger (I almost said "take a half breath" before the squeeze the trigger part, but it does not apply too well Last edited by azapa; November 22nd, 2007 at 20:32. |
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#5
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Having missed lots of larger fish close in and hitting smaller fish further away I think I know what affects my accuracy the most - and it isn't the gun!
The things I reckon most frequently cause me to make a poor shot are: 1. Not having straigtened out arms, e.g if I am hiding in kelp and my arms are bent trying to conceal myself - I frequently miss what I think are very easy targets 2. Snatching at the trigger - again I think I have a dead cert so I pull the trigger too hard and the gun direction is altered as a result - I need to concentrate on the 'even pull' Most of the time if I have straight arms and gently squeeze I have a reliable aim. I do not even conciously sight the gun or look along the barrel - it becomes a bit of an instinctive reaction. Often if I slow down and take careful aim I even get nervous!! |
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#6
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...Just to put a little bit of fog in your mind I would suggest to do the other way round of what has been said so far.......I would suggest you to do exactly as any target shooter does when shooting to a static target....just aim the target, all your concentration must be focused on keeping the gun on the target, meanwhile your finger pull the trigger with a costant pressure (if the weight of the trigger is high,
constantly increase the effort on pulling the trigger) but remember: your mind and your arm are doing anything to keep the gun on target. When the shaft is released you'll be suprised (you should NOT know when your gun will shoot). I would suggest to practice a little bit whit any kind of weapon you have or borrowed.... If your mind says "now I pull the trigger" you'll miss..... The above is a good way to be accurate with fish that swim slow or are static.... Yes, I'm sure you will not find many of them but it's a good point to start from.... After a good time of practice you'll be able to apply this procedure to swimming fishes as well....your misses will decrease drastically... Pls let us know.... |
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#7
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Quote:
good idea Marmir. In target and assault type shooting that trigger technique is called a "surprise break" when as you say, pressure is increased slowly until gun goes off. In such firearms there is an easy test to see how the shooter does: fill the magazine but leave one round without primer (detonator) 90% of shooters on letting the hammer fall on this duff round will snatch the gun down. to be honest though, these advanced techniques I can do with rifle or pistol, but they have never worked underwater with too many inputs as there are. or maybe I do it and don't notice?? will try this weekend though... |
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#8
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Just read all the threds EVORYone misses///even the good spearos.
Ok shoot at a target but it is alot diffrent with a real fish...just gota keep going and you will keep hiting. Good luk |
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#10
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I'm going to jump into the Miles camp, it's more or less the same advice I was given by the best spearo I ever knew.
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Shooting a moving target is difficult, if anyone tells you different don't believe them. Time spent hunting moving fish is the only way. The trick is to shoot at a point the fish will be at the time the shaft gets there, so aim in front of the fish. How far ahead depends on how fast the fish is moving and how far away it is. I confess I'm total crap at this, thankfully most of the fish I shoot are very slow moving at the time of the shot. I find that when shooting fish in a school it pays to single out a fish asap but remembering that the biggest ones are usually towards the centre to back of the school. Once you have singled out your fish stay with it even if a bigger one comes into view. Any indecision will probably give the fish time to move on and spoil your day. A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush
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Last edited by Pastor; November 24th, 2007 at 18:42. Reason: added link |
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#11
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My 3 cents:
-First: a 130 is very long and difficult to handle, especially if it's your first speargun. I guess many issues come from the long length. It's very hard to track/swing a 130. Best technique is DON'T do any side swinging at all: best way to aim such a long gun is to bend your arm backwards, redirect and then straighten your arm forward to the target. -it's very difficult to hunt fish when in schools/groups, because schools always have a sort of sentinel alarm system: if you scare one, you scare them all. Once they get nervous, they start swimming faster and you will certainly get jammed by all those fishes and you will loose precious time trying to make a decision on WHICH ONE to shoot among the lot. So the best thing, even if they are dozens, is to focus on ONE single fish, track him calmly until he comes at range, and never change target, unless your first target fish disappears. Have three extra tips: 1)NEVER target the first one of the row. 2)If the fish come towards you frontally, don't wait for him to turn on a side, but shoot him straight to his face. 3)close target: aim to the gill plate. distant target: aim to his lips and one inch above his head. Enjoy.
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Deeperblue.com staff |
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#12
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Hi,
I had similar problems about two years ago. Suddenly I could not hit a fish! At the time we had a visiting Spanish diver videotaping our Nationals and I explained my frustrations at missing and badly hitting the fish I was hitting - aspecially at longer range (I used a 115cm gun with 7mm spears). We carefully went looked at the video footage and could see that the spear was starting in the correctly but dropping as it left the muzzle. We then had a look at the muzzel and could see a point where ther had clearly been contcat - small flattend areas on the inside of the muzzel. Looking closer at the crimp - on the edge of the crimp there was a shiny copper spot - clearly the point of contact. I filed this point down but was never really happy with it. I have subesequently changed to using Dyneema and the accuracy of my guns has returned to where it was. I think the OMER muzzels are designed for slightly lighter spears and probably lighter Mono. The softer Dyneema may offer more drag in the water, but I would rather have accuracy than the slightly quicker spear. I would suggest you have a careful look at the muzzel and the crimp to see if there is contact when you fire. Good luck |
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#13
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Point and shoot you should be familiar enough with the gun to do so.Find the fat one in the school and shoot OR wait and see if any larger fish are following the school.
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If it can't kill you it ain't a sport
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#14
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3 shots 3 fish this weekend, no aiming and bent arm! think the shot and hit positively and they seem to drive home OK, have doubts and you seem to miss. In that sense, rifles and pistols are very different: the sights must be used in most cases. Spearing is more like using a shotgun in the sense of aiming. (or not).
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