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| Spearguns & Accessories General Discussion about Spearguns and Accessories in here |
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#1
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I managed to cut the line attaching the rubber (20mm) of my RA gun....very impressive I might add.
I do have extra rubber, already rigged & ready for use but I have no clue on how to put it...or rather weave it through the muzle. It won't bend ...nor can you squeeze it (20mm) through any of the holes...this just shows how exprienced I am. Any help will be appreciated. ![]() |
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#2
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I have a rabitech and i think they both have the same muzzle
you have to use silicone lubricant to get the band through the muzzle then you tie the dyneema wishbone.. here is a link on how to tie the wishbone, hope this helps http://www.spearfishinggear.com/spea...nd_rigging.htm
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DeeperBlue.net Regional Advisor "The warm Heart of Egypt" Adrian..DeeperBlue |
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#3
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When you say "rigged" do you mean that you made loop with the wishbone completing the loop? If so, you should be able thread the wishbone through the small gap in the front muzzle hole.
Either way, from there, I guess you have to thread the rubber through one of the holes. 20mm rubbers are really thick. Silicone sounds like a good idea. If you don't have any, soapy water or glycerol should also work. If you are having a problem getting it started, I notice some spearos trim the ends of their rubbers to a cone shape (with a grinder or clippers), perhaps that would help. [Any ideas Miles?] |
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#4
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just sray a little lube on the slit in the muzzle then you have to strech the rubber and then squeez it thrukinda like your loading the gun..nexzt time rig the bands after youve put the thru the muzzle.
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#5
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to take the rubber out:
place the handle on the floor in front of your feet grab the rubber (one hand on each side) pull down to stech the rubber and openoyur arms to the side for the front hole just pull up it's better using silicon for rubber heath but you can do it without it hope i helped |
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#6
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Ihab,
What will help is if you stretch the rubber left and right and then try to snap it into the front of the muzzle. Alternatively, you can have somebody open the front lip with pliers and it will snap in easier. Best, Erik |
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#7
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Was commenting on how well my 16mm rubbers were last last week & then noticed yesterday that they looked badly stretch & perished at both ends & at the muzzle. After removing them, it looks like mainly surface wear but it seemed like it was time to switch to the new 20mm band.
I almost had heartattack when I first saw the 20mm rubber (was expecting 16mm rubber) -- thinking how the heck is that thick thing going fit through the holes in the muzzle. Well it was pretty awkward. Here's what I did [WARNING: stretching thick, lubed rubber bands is dangerous ]:0. Remove the spear & unclip the spearline. 1. Cut to the correct length (I left a little bit extra, just in case; all 3 charts that I checked recommended 64cm of 20mm rubber for 90cm railgun). 2. Fit the Dyneema wishbone (couldn't get any purchase without it -- but the end toggles do make the band even thicker at the ends). 3. Carefully trim the rubber ends to a crude, shallow, cone shape with super-scissors to make it easier to thread & guide. 4. Lots of v. slippery lube is essential - I used glycerine (I can never find that silicon/silicone lube everybody recommends for lubing & protecting rubber). 5. Key point: you need a good way to brace the gun while you apply considerable BRUTE FORCE. What finally did the trick for me was the outside garden table. I led the full length of the gun across the table with just the muzzle over the end. This allowed me to brace the gun without risking bending or breaking the barrel. Thread the wishbone through the muzzle gap, then pull the coned rubber end into the muzzle hole and then pull down hard on the other end using both hands. Plop - in it goes. Now pull the band through until its centre is at the muzzle - normal firing position. 6. To get the rubber into the guides on either side of the muzzle: a. lube the rubber next to the guide b. brace the gun vertically agains a table leg or the seat of a solid chair c. pull down hard with both hands, with as much sideward pull towards the split in the guide as you can manage. Plop - in it goes. 7. Repeat 6 on the other side. 8. You will probably need to even the band out now -- good luck, I'm still working on that! (Not too worried, while loading the gun in the water, it is usually possible to adjust this). There is probably a better way - but this at least worked. (Probably best not to attempt this immediately after a long, tiring dive Last edited by Mr. X; August 12th, 2007 at 16:32. |
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#8
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Hey Guys,
I recently re-rigged my RA Sniper gun with a new 18mm rubber and found it nearly impossible to do it the way you have described above (with bridle in place) so I found an easier way. Firstly, cut the constricter cord holding your bridle in (assuming your bridle and rubber are premade) and remove the bridle and beads from the rubber. Next, Cut a 45 degree angle on the ends of the rubbers and chamfer the edges a little. Spray Silicone lube all over the holes in the muzzle and the rubbers. Simply push the rubber thru the front hole and pull the rubber midway. Push the rubber through the longitudinal holes and grab the tapered end with a pair of pliers and simply pull it through as you apply pressure to the back of the rubber pushing it at the same time. It should go through without much problem. (I used long nose pliers grabbing sideways, not inline) Repeat with the other end. Once you have the rubbers in, re-trim the angled ends straight (it's best to start with them an inch too long on both ends to allow for re-trimming) and apply a slight chamfer and re-insert your bridle with a bridle insertion tool and tie new constrictor knots 5mm from the end of the bungee and finish with burning the ends of the constricter cord to form molten lumps. It worked easy on my RA1.4 18mm. I would have throught it impossible to get the rubbers with bridle inserted through the 15mm holes in the sides of the muzzle. It worked for me anyways and wasn't too difficult. Happy Spearing, Deejay |
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#9
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Excellent, I thought there must be an easier way! 140cm RA -- you're obviously up for a challenge!
Leaving it long and trimming afterwards sounds like a good idea too -- a bit trickier to measure I dare say. BTW I use a soldering iron to smear the constrictor knot & the end of cords - works well. |