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105cm enclosed track composite

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 90 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
The next steps in the new gun build...
 

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Next....
The foam was cut back with a knife & cleaned up with coarse sandpaper, the whole gun was also roughed up with the paper & cleaned with acetone.
I then filled the area between the pipes with epoxy mixed with lightweight power, I applied masking tape & ensured the paste filled every gap.
Next....
The gun has been sanded down with the same coarse sandpaper & a little shape worked into the pipe ends.
In the third pic you can see I have installed a plastic sleeve through the handle, this is to hold the trigger linkage.
 

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Cool gun

Looks very nice indeed. I just have some questions.
Do you glue the two aluminium profiles? When you load the gun does it show any tendancy to wrap? Since you are using pipes(PVC?) do you have problems keeping it under water?.


Sorry for all this questions, but your design really makes me wonder why did i bought a new one insted of making one.
 
Hi catman. Yes I glued the U section to the T section. The metal core compensates the buoyancy of the pipe but of course the gun will be balanced once finished.
The idea is for a high mass medium weight gun to alleviate recoil.
I cant imagine for one minute that the gun will flex when loading!
 
Next....
Now I have fitted the track. This time I have opened up the track 250mm back from the end, this will make inserting the spear a bit quicker.
 

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lookin good Foxy, and thanks for advancing at the weekend instead of during my otherwise boring work week ;)

Is that a Maorisub Spear? what length? Also, how did you bond those tubes in the sides of the "T"? Is that foam, or did you glue them and then foam fill them?

It looks doable so far, but I have no idea how you will do the trigger mech and line release.. can't wait...
 
Trigger is mounted behind the handle & will be linked somehow with a push rod.
I had drilled holes in the T to allow the expanding foam to grip & hold the pipe in place.
It was a messy job but I filled the pipe with foam from my foam gun (you could use a disposable tin from any hardware shop) I then quickly clipped on the pipe before the foam had expanded to much. The tape held the pipe in position overnight & by then the foam had fully expanded & filled every gap including the pre drilled holes. It would take a lot of force to remove the pipes !
 

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Dude this piece of work looks great... I love the design is so uncommon to see something like this ! I hope it's accurate. much props! =D way to set your self apart
 
Won't be hearing about this for a while as foxfish has some sexy beast rabitech handles. (if I don't have my threads misremembered) DOES YOUR GUN KNOW YOU ARE KEEPING IT ON THE BACK BURNER?
 
Patience is a virtue as I have explained to all my unfinished projects!
I am awaiting some components to arrive from (ie Teflon enclosed tracks) that will encourage me back into gun building mode.
 
that is another thing i didnot mention to you
i never use teflon or derlin as a material for enclosed track .
for 14 years now i use marine aluminum alloy from the local metal supermarket and with the grider you make the space for the shark fin which is the only thing outside showing
in your case is easier because you can weld the aluminum tubing direct on the aluminum body
for 5/16 shaft i use 3/8 internal diameter tubing
14 years cannot be wrong .
dont forget first you do the cut with the grider on the tubing and after the welding the tubing on the body and not vice versa
the welding can be some 4 inches spots along the body and NOT ALL THE BODY WELDING
because the heat of a full body welding will bend the tubing and maybe and the gun body to
 

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