• Welcome to the DeeperBlue.com Forums, the largest online community dedicated to Freediving, Scuba Diving and Spearfishing. To gain full access to the DeeperBlue.com Forums you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:

    • Join over 44,280+ fellow diving enthusiasts from around the world on this forum
    • Participate in and browse from over 516,210+ posts.
    • Communicate privately with other divers from around the world.
    • Post your own photos or view from 7,441+ user submitted images.
    • All this and much more...

    You can gain access to all this absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!

48 Inch Lever Action Rollergun

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.

onobill

Active Member
Jan 5, 2007
9
2
38
Quite awhile back my teak supplier told me he had a handrail from a yacht, and that it would make a great speargun. Since the deal sounded "too good to be true" I ended up the proud owner of a yacht...handrail. :D He was right about the wood. It was really a beautiful piece, and it was when I looked at the shape of the handrail that I decided I would need to break some of the conventional rules of building spearguns. So I decided I would start with what would be almost the final shape, and go from there. Good thing I got a deal on the wood. The piece looked like an inverted "U", and the legs were kind of beat up, so I planed them off and ended up with a piece like this.
DSC03475-Copy640x480.jpg

Then, I cut a piece out of the middle to give me the 2 halves I wanted. I ripped 2 lams from the piece I cut out and glued them to the bottom, giving me my blank, which now looked like this.
DSC03476-Copy640x480.jpg

I installed one of my delrin enclosed tracks without any problem since I'm using a milling machine and the bottom and sides of the blank are flat. This would have been a real challenge with a router. I decided to use a Tin Man handle and trigger/ pushrod, and that went in the same way you would install it with a conventional gun. But, since I was going to be using brushed aluminum for some other stuff on the gun, I didn't want the black handle frame. Tin man to the rescue- turns out he had a couple of prototypes from when he was developing the handle, so they were bare aluminum- just what I wanted. More in the next post.
DSC03503640x480.jpg

DSC03521640x480.jpg

DSC03505640x480.jpg

DSC03507640x480.jpg

DSC03506640x480.jpg
 
I used a Neptonics reef mech, and went with the side slot for the release lever since it was at the height on the gun that would match the muzzle. I had to make a longer lever since the gun was too wide for the lever supplied with the mech. I wanted it to auto reset so I made and installed the Tin Man auto resetting torque spring "thingy".
DSC03530640x480-1.jpg

DSC03531640x480.jpg

DSC03532640x480.jpg


Then it was on to the muzzle. I drilled the hole for the "axle", which was a 1/4" diam. threaded insert, then milled the slots for the delrin rollers that I had made earlier. I made a combination shooting line anchor and muzzle reinforcer from 3/16" thick aluminum. It fits in a slot milled into the underside of the gun and extends 6" back from the end of the gun. Two pins hold it into the gun, and since the axle passes through it, it transfers load from the axle back into the gun and takes load off the end pieces of wood, which really just hold the axle in place.
DSC03523640x480.jpg

DSC03524640x480.jpg

Next post I'll get into the lever installation.
 
OK, now you can start to see why I made the blank so wide. Rollerguns tend to be high because they have bands on both top and bottom, so my goal was to make the gun as streamlined as possible by grooving the top and insetting the cocking lever up into the gun as much as possible. Problem is that when you do that, a lot of the wood is removed. In this case, the track goes in 1/2" from the top and the cocking lever goes up about 5/8" in from the bottom, so most of the strength of the blank comes from the wood on the sides- everything's a compromise. I'll have to hunt with it to see if the width is a problem, but it shoots a 1" group at 14' in the test tank, so I like it so far.
The lever is set up to give a 2:1 mechanical advantage when cocking from the bottom. When the band is cocked on top, it's about a 190% elongation. On the bottom, it finishes the load at anywhere from 300 to 400% elongation, depending on band length. That's where the lever comes in. There's no way I could handle 350% elongation, but with the lever it's half of that. 175% I can handle.

DSC03515640x480.jpg

DSC03516640x480-1.jpg

DSC03517640x480-1.jpg

DSC03535640x480.jpg

DSC03519640x480.jpg

DSC03514640x480.jpg

DSC03520640x480.jpg

DSC03510640x480.jpg

DSC03513640x480.jpg

DSC03529640x480.jpg
 
I added a couple more items. I installed 2 pins to help keep the shooting line in place. (Note the gun is inverted in the photo)
DSC03585640x480.jpg

Then I made a delrin light holder and installed an LED dive light on the lever, which was really the only place it could go. If it works for shooting in holes it will be great. If not, Im just out some delrin and some time making the bracket.
DSC03580640x480.jpg

DSC03581640x480.jpg

And, finally, I also added one of Josh's safeties. I use it mostly when I"m making changes to the gun and need to test it in my shop. In the water when I'm hunting with the gun, I'll use until the gun is cocked, then hunt with it in the "fire" position.
DSC03557640x480.jpg

DSC03559640x480.jpg

DSC03568640x480.jpg
 
Here's how it turned out. I'm pretty pleased with it so far (After just shooting it in the test tank). Just like the other rollergun postings, it has a nice soft recoil, and is very accurate. With Tin Man and Jim Cuda's spreadsheet, it is really easy to do "what if" cases without doing all the calculations to design. Thanks guys, but I wish you had come up with it a couple of months ago! :D It's easy enough to have a light band for dirty water hunting around small wrecks in the bay, and a more powerful band for the gulf wrecks. The spreadsheet also is handy for comparing guns. If you have a gun that has just the right power, it's now easy to configure a different size gun with the same power. I'll shoot the gun for q while, and if I'm happy with it the next one will probably be a 38" mid handled version of the "Dirty Water Rollergun" that got me started with rollerguns in the first place.
DSC03564640x480.jpg

DSC03561640x480.jpg

DSC03563640x480.jpg

DSC03567640x480.jpg

DSC03566640x480.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: -Paddy- and Herup
Really great, thanks for posting!
How is balance?

Best regards
H!
 
A master craftsman work for sure!
A lovely piece of engineering & it even looks great too & that is unusuall for a roller gun.
I think the idea of trying to keep a roller gun looking like a ordinary band gun with rollers, just does not work but, your design is definitely the way to go... a serious gun designed to be what it is, not a compromising attempt.
Very well done :)
 
Last edited:
Really great, thanks for posting!
How is balance?

Best regards
H!

The gun is slightly nose heavy and sinks slowly with the shaft in, floats nose up without the shaft, but with the light attached, and floats level without the shaft and without the light. It shoots a 1" group at about 14' (test tank) and has that smooth, managable recoil so typical of rollerguns, even with the band loaded to 350% elongation. I like it so far but won't be able to really test it until spring when some of the fishing seasons open up here.
 
This is a wonderful piece of engineering and craftsmanship.
True monster gun.
Have some rep for that:friday
 
DeeperBlue.com - The Worlds Largest Community Dedicated To Freediving, Scuba Diving and Spearfishing

ABOUT US

ISSN 1469-865X | Copyright © 1996 - 2024 deeperblue.net limited.

DeeperBlue.com is the World's Largest Community dedicated to Freediving, Scuba Diving, Ocean Advocacy and Diving Travel.

We've been dedicated to bringing you the freshest news, features and discussions from around the underwater world since 1996.

ADVERT