I’ve been to Cancún a few times, but this trip reminded me that there is much more to the area than the beaches and all-inclusive resorts. If you are coming here mainly to dive, it is actually pretty easy to combine some good diving with a few days of exploring.The diving
The highlight for me was getting out on the reefs rather than spending all my dives around the usual tourist attractions.
I ended up diving with Scuba Total Cancun, a small family-run operation. What I liked was the personal approach. The groups are small, and they were happy to discuss what kind of diving I wanted rather than simply putting me on a standard package.
We did natural Cancun reef diving, with plenty of fish and the usual Caribbean reef life. The local reefs can be surprisingly good when conditions cooperate, and there are both shallow bay reefs and deeper outside reefs. Scuba Total lists sites ranging from the shallower Manchones/Chitales area to deeper outside reefs around 50–60 ft.
If you are looking for a local dive shop, here is their site: Scuba Total Cancun
I’m mentioning them because I had a good experience, but also because I think the small-group approach makes a difference when you are traveling specifically to dive.
Where we stayed
We stayed at Emporio Cancún, which worked very well as a base. It is right on the beach in the Hotel Zone, with a good location for getting around. The beach and location were probably my favorite parts of the hotel. Recent guests also consistently mention the beach and location as highlights.
It is also convenient if you want to split your time between diving and sightseeing without spending half the day getting around.
One dinner I would recommend
One evening we went to Navíos, down at Km 19.5 in the Hotel Zone. It sits directly on a dock over the Nichupté Lagoon, so it is much more about the setting than just going out for dinner.
Try to get a table outside around sunset. The restaurant specializes in Mexican fusion seafood, and the location makes it a particularly nice place for a relaxed dinner after a day in the water.
Don't spend the whole trip underwater
As divers, it is easy to do that!
We also took a day to visit Chichén Itzá. It is touristy, yes, but I still think it is worth seeing at least once. The scale and history of the site are impressive, especially if you have never visited a major Maya archaeological site before.
For something much more casual, spend a couple of hours at Mercado 28 in downtown Cancún. It is a traditional tourist market with lots of Mexican handicrafts, souvenirs, jewelry and other things to take home. Bargaining is part of the experience, so don't necessarily accept the first price.
Final thoughts
Cancún is obviously very touristy, and it is easy to stay inside the resort bubble. But if you get out for a few dives, eat somewhere local, visit a market and spend a day exploring the Maya sites, it becomes a much more interesting trip.
For me, the combination worked perfectly: dive in the morning, good food in the evening, and a little history in between.
And yes… I still managed to come home wishing I had booked another couple of dives.
