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Another handle project

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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T

Tin Man

Well-Known Member
Jun 27, 2006
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Thought I would share another little handle project that I have been working on with a friend. He is building a larger gun that is pretty wide in the back, and he wanted an auto resetting center line release instead of the typical side line release. This is where we ended up.

Overall, this one is pretty similar to the way Phil Herranen and others have done it, with just a few tweaks to suit our specific needs. Most notably, the forward rod is adjustable so that the timing of the release can be tuned just right. Also, the pins that go through the trigger slide have short bushings that keep the sides of the handle from getting pinched inward and dragging against the slide. And lastly, the Delrin frame accepts standard AR-15 Rifle grips for a semi-custom fit.

It's not suitable for all applications, of course. The mortised style of handle is a very strong attachment, which makes it great for tuna guns and such, but it does remove a fair bit of wood for the installation.
 

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does it have the same ar15 reciever? like the ones i got.? how does it attach? i dont see any pin holes. really nice stuff! i am thinking about doing that (a center line relaese) since you told me about it a few weeks ago. i could do it with the neptonics reef trigger with the auto reset. i think YOU mentioned it to me actually. what an awesome idea though,(to have the release on the bottom of ther gun) i have been trying to figure out where to put the releases on my over under gun. THATS a headache! i may just go with a line shaft on top and a freeshaft on bottom, although it would be way easier to just have 2 freeshafts! WAYYYYYeasier!
 
Yes, it has the same AR-15 grip mount as your handles. You attach it by cutting out a mortise in the bottom of the gun, like an extended trigger pocket, and round at both ends. Then you drill through the handle and gun together, and mount with two pins just like a trigger mech. Because the holes in the handle are not pre-drilled, you don't have to hit them just right like you do on a trigger mech, which makes installation a snap. There is a relatively large area 1" tall by 5/8" wide at each end, and the pin can be located anywhere in that area.
 
IF YOU MAKE SOME MORE , I WANT some. are they aluminum or delrin? one other question: when you make more of the other receivers/handles. would you consider doing some in polished aluminum? it really looks awesome against the black.really awesome!
 
These will be Delrin. The shop that made my previous batch of handles is working up a price to make a few of these. I'll let you know when I have specifics, and you can get in on the first batch if you want.

I hadn't thought of it, but plain aluminum would be a possibility. I could easily bead blast a matte finish on it, but if you want it polished you would have to do that yourself.

I was actually thinking about getting the next batch in Delrin. If I get them about 90% complete, I can customize them to suit a variety of applications. Like 3 or 4 screws, larger screws, or a super simple stainless slide trigger. The Delrin should be plenty strong and can be polished nicely with steel wool, whereas the anodized surface can scratch over time.
 
yeah, to be honest,anodised is my least favorite finish. especially in black, because if i scratch it (or WHEN is more like it) the scratch will be bright silver and stands out against the black finish, and cannot be fixed really. with any other finish i can do atleast a half ass repair when the scratches come. delrin is good. this way i can widen the trigger slot if i need to, (if the trigger was chafing, etc.) i can operate on the delrin quite easily. for that aspect, the delrin is the best choice. if you make them from delrin, you could send them without mounting holes drilled. that way we can retro fit them, or they could be used in multiple bolt hole pattern applications, to fit any gun. just send out the plate plain. you could even send it a bit oversized, since it could be cut down so easily. I personally, would LOVE to retro fit some of these on existing guns. but i cant , because the hole pattern is different. i would have to fill with epoxy and re drill.,(not good in my book. only if necessary) to be honest, even in aluminum, i could drill my own holes. maybe you could offer them both ways. drilled or plain. i really like the aluminum look. when you polish it and the contrast btween the black rubber hogue handle and the polished aluminum would be nice! i will polish my own stuff, i do it now for neptonics stuff. i'll tell yyou what, i could really use some pointers on how to do the polishing faster,(right now, i wet sand in the sink with 220grit) it takes like 2 hours to do 1 handle frame. and i mostly half ass it, because i get sick of it. i will start a thread in a minute, please tell your secrets if you have any. including power tools, if i need them. (i love buying power tools) i have grinders and dremels already. but back on track: yes i love these handle ideas of yours. keep them coming! aluminum that could be polished would be the cats ass in my opinion. and BTW: to all you deeper blue people: give this guy some rep! he should have like a million points. i'm sure he isny worried about it, since it is sort of trivial. but the stuff tin man builds, is so nice, it is really on a different level altogether. i really dont know how he does it. i think he's a witch. but he still deserves rep. give it up boys!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Wont ally just fur up as soon as it touches sea water?
Even marine grade ally oxidises very quickly.
 
Corrosion of aluminum in seawater could probably fill a book by itself, but what I know won't fill a page, and I often find that there is much confusion in the terms.

First, define oxidize. Technically, aluminum oxidizes almost imediately in air or water. That invisible aluminum oxide film is what keeps the aluminum from corroding any further. That's all anodizing is, a dyed aluminum oxide.

My father and I have built two welded aluminum boats that we use in saltwater. The unpainted surface does lose it's luster and gets a bit of a matte gray look, but that's all. No corrosion. So I will certainly agree that polished aluminum may not look polished for very long, unless you take time to clean it up frequently.

Now aluminum, in contact with stainless, imersed in saltwater, is a different story. Galvanic corrosion can bite you.
 
My ally boat was kept in a marina alongside hundreds of fiberglass boats but electrolysis in the water caused it to rot though 3mm in two years!

Interestingly I learnt how to glue ally with epoxy - the idea is to use coarse wet n dry sand paper with epoxy instead of water so the roughed surface cant oxidize with air contact, you do this with both surfaces & then stick them together.
 
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foxfish said:
Interestingly I learnt how to glue ally with epoxy - the idea is to use coarse wet n dry sand paper with epoxy instead of water so the roughed surface cant oxidize with air contact, you do this with both surfaces & then stick them together.
Click to expand...

Interesting. The went immediately into my mental bag of tricks!
 

vastly overrated. think about it,": what about the S.S. screws in the aluminum plates? they really dont do much, in terms of corroding things. i should know, all the neptonics handle frames are aluminum, and all the screws are S.Steel. there is a litle white oxidation stains on the screws, but VERY little. and i have at least 2 guns that are 3 years old. if it was going to be a big deal, would it make sense to install some zincs on the spearguns? i could do it easy.
 
You have a point, but you also have to consider how much time your guns are actually in the water, because that is the only time that galvanic corrosion can occur. Even if you dive a LOT, it is way less time then a boat which is sitting the water 24-7-365.

Galvanic corrosion as a threat to a speargun probably is over rated (for most of us), simply because they aren't wet as much as we would like them to be!
 
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