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Graphite/filler?

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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J

JCooke

New Member
Feb 24, 2008
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I have been looking a little bit here for the proportions of graphite to epoxy in a track, for lack of tech terminology Ill call it half circle track, and if filler is needed or not? And how large of a track area to put the track in?
Oh using west systems.

Jason
 

Jason, How long of a gun are you building, what shaft and rubber power? I use West Systems 423 WSY-423 mix up to 10% by volume. here in the states its $17.00 for 12oz.
Cheers, Don
 
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Well,Im in the middle of a few builds, 12 to be honest, ranging from 32"-67" a mid handle and normal handle placement of each size. Machining trigger mechs right now. I have a large sheet of UHMW for the enclosed tracks, and want to use graphite/epoxy for the open track guns. Still working on shaft and band configurations but 5/16 shaft, 9/16 2 or 3 bands and the big guns 3/8 shaft, 5/8 bands 3 or 4.
 
Why use epoxy for the open tracks? I just built a few guns poured epoxy closed and actually think that the epoxy track is more work than its worth. Especially for an open track gun. Adds cost and extra labor to the build, plus its just one more thing that can go wrong. In fact the last enclosed track I built, i ended up just making an enclosed wood track. If you do pour a track make sure to give your self plenty of overpour. I used west systems slow cure epoxy (206?) and at least 3/16 overpour and I still got a little bit of honey comb.

Not trying to talk you out of it, just my experience. Another thing to think of is that the graphite will wear your ball mill bits out a lot quicker than wood tracks will. When you cut the track I suggest milling out as much as you can with a 1/4 mortising bit, with out going into the actual track, before you run your ball end through it.

You might also try shooting a pm to Jtkwest. He has been doing a lot of builds with poured epoxy/graphite tracks. I think he also has the cocktail down pretty well too. Good luck and post some pictures!
 
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Thanks for the input.
As for the tracks, the cutting i have a little advantage I have my own machine shop on my property and cutting a relief or clearance for the HSS end mills. I have been thinking on the track that the full enclosed i would use the UHMW and the open track inbed magnets( the little tiny super magnets) 4ish spaced equally down the track in the barrel and epoxy over them with a 1/8" clearance(will have to do a little RD on that).
I agree about getting to crazy with the epoxy.
Has anyone tried using a under sized plastic rod and pour around it to create a cavity and clean it up after removing the rod?
Ill take any advice, thanks.

Jason
 
i wrap a shaft or rod of slightly larger diameter with clear tape and plug both ends of the barrel
[just tape around the ends to keep the epoxy from escaping].

Then i pour the epoxy to fill almost all the way and set the taped shaft in. Eye for straightness of course.
 
10-4

I have 12 guns in the making. I will use everyone advice, much appreciated, and do the best this little machine shop can pull off.

thanks everybody!!

Jason
 
The best gun ever made still needs a liittle help from the shooter as long as its consistant!!!

Thanks
Jason
 

You know if you look at the riffes mag tracks they only have one magnet and it seems to be plenty to keep the shaft in place, four might be a little much (IMHO). I kinda think 4 might add unwanted friction and slow the shaft down a bit?
 

the mix i use is: west system resin with the extra slow hardener. plus 40% milled fiber by volume.( mas brand is good)as far as graphite, use just about 1/2 teaspoon per track NO MORE! or your bits will suffer! use just enough to make the mix turn dark grey, black is maybe too much. it takes me about pumps of each(resin, hardener) to do one track on a 48 to50" track. i used to tape off small dams with blues tape all around the gun, so i can overpour about 3/16. this is because the top 3/16 layer, has all the bubbles and will need to0 be cut off. now, what i do is make my stock about 3/16 taller than my finished dimension will be. cut an 11/16" deep x 1/2" wide slot in the stock, then pour you mix in. wait about 5 minutes then take a needle and get out the bubbles you can. when it dries the next day, run it throughthe table saw and cut off the top 3/16" and you have a good starting point for the next step. since you have a machine shop, i'm sure you will build router jigs to make all this easy, like i did.
 
Questions,

1.....has anyone ever added Pearl to their epoxy for a little sexiness.
I have evan seen glowing paint additives....

2..... does west systems have a UV barrier additive. if not then?

3.... is fully cured West Sys epoxy buffable.

Jason


"I love the smell of epoxy in the morning"
 
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