homemade 130 euro

well this is the first of 14 guns i will be making. i got a bunch of teak from work and i cut and planed and glued 14 laminates and they are aging under my couch right now. i am working a couple of the older ones now and i have one done. it is 139 cm 55"from trigger to muzzle and 155 cm overall 62" . it is a fully enclosed track with delrin insert. it has a neptonics tuna trigger and handle frame. with teak handles carved by me. it is unfinished in these pics. but it is in the process of being oiled now. i am using riffe oil kit. i wish it would come out darker though. will tung oil darken it? can i use it after teak oil? what about varnish? anyway it shoots a 63" x 9/32" spear with slip tip it is made of teak and ipe . the ipe is in the center and bottom with teak on the rest. i am not sure what to put on the butt yet if anything. the ipe i used was hand picked by me from 2 tractor trailer loads. it actually floats!(ipe usually sinks) it has added ridiculous strength to my gun plus helped ballast it without losing bouyancy. and i cut the strips for the laminate in june and glue the stock in august and it is still true. the barrel is 1.5 inches wide and 1 3/8 tall

i messed up a few thing on this gun. the biggest of which is the grain of the laminates, which i NOW full understand . oh well next time. this barrel doesnt flex much it fells super solid from the ipe.

what i did was screw it from one side with screws just long enough to attach far side without going through it. i didnt glue it at all. did you know there are two different handle frames available? one is aluminum (labeled light )one is SSteel,(lbeled heavy) they are both the same price you just have to tell josh. he also is sending me a handle frame jig ,(whatever that is )for 10$ it should be here wed. i will let you know what that looks like. i figured if i didnt like the handle pieces , i would redo them later . i was thinking ipe because it is neg. buoyant.,(should help with flipping over you are describing. and the BEST way to do the handles is to get pins ,(the same as hold the trigger , only smaller) and drill slightly smaller hole and pin them, i was just in a bit of a hurry to get one gun done. i just got back from the shop ten minutes ago, and i am building two more guns this week, one 140 cm rear handle 9/32" x 65" spear , and 1 90cm little gun for 9/32 x 50" spear. both will be done in a week or two. i want to experiment with tung oil and varnish for the finish this time, though. and one other thing, ipe sinks. i picked a piece out of hundreds to find one that floated BARELY. i actually laminated an all ipe barrel to see if it would work , but i think it would be too heavy to hold on to with the spear increasing the weight even further. some one said it would be good for scuba spearos since they really dont wnt the gun to float,(it is more of a pain in the ass) i used two strips of ipe out of 6 total, with the rest teak, and it seems to be the perfect combination. also, the wood i have is true ipe and hence denser than cumaru, for instance , which is commonly sold under "trade name ""IPE" but is not usually as dense, so would probably be a better choice, but it still sinks, unless you find an extra light one. i will tell you what i was told by an old timer woodworker who i have been consulting with lately, he told me to buy a bit of 1/4 sawn BUBINGA. a straight block of this stuff doesnt need to be laminated it is way way more snappy and resilient than teak at 1/4 the price and actually would be better than teak in strength characteristics, as long as you oil it, it will be perfect in water. just START with a sraight block of that, and the rest is down hill.