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How do you thread the line on the Rob Allen open muzzle?

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.

Gaz D

Clueless Muppet!
Aug 1, 2008
1,172
245
153
Hello all,

I've just bought a Rob Allen open muzzle to go on my Rob Allen Sparid 90. Was wondering if anyone could post some photos of how to thread/lay the line on the open muzzle, as I don't want to do this incorrectly and end up damaging the gun/fouling the line/ affecting the shot etc.

I've got a Seatec Gabbiano with open muzzle, but the Rob allen looks as though it is done in a slightly different way.

I'd prefer photos, if you could manage it, as (apart from the fact that I'm a bit dim) a pictue paints a thousand words!

Many thanks,

Gaz.

.
 
Hello all,

I've just bought a Rob Allen open muzzle to go on my Rob Allen Sparid 90. Was wondering if anyone could post some photos of how to thread/lay the line on the open muzzle, as I don't want to do this incorrectly and end up damaging the gun/fouling the line/ affecting the shot etc.

I've got a Seatec Gabbiano with open muzzle, but the Rob allen looks as though it is done in a slightly different way.

I'd prefer photos, if you could manage it, as (apart from the fact that I'm a bit dim) a pictue paints a thousand words!

Many thanks,

Gaz.

.


Looks like I've had the question answered for me by the Rob Allen team themselves. Here are the pictures they sent me of how to wrap the line on the new open muzzle, if anyone else is interested (hopefully they are not copyrighted, and hopefully they won't mind me posting them):


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Reactions: Gadwall and mundial
thats it :thankyou

why to put a different muzzle on the gun?
the RA original muzzle is good enough
 
Hi Buddy,

The things that will effect your accuracy as i remember as follow:

1-The alignment of your muzzle with your track if it is making your shaft higher than the track.
2- The shaft (If it is bend or under sized)
3- Your rubbers if they are more powerful.
4- the alignment of your trigger mechanism with your track.
5- Changing the muzzle may change the position of the rubbers if it is different type but i think it will be minor. (The rule says that the more the rubbers aligned parallel to the shaft the better the accuracy)

If you tried it already please update us about the result.

This is what i remembered and if anyone see any mistake in my post correct me please.

Saleh
 
I think I can see a further potential problem with using a different muzzle, with regards to accuracy.

If the new muzzle that you are fitting has a lower profile (or is lower in height) than the one you are removing, then you may end up firing high if you have to raise the end of the gun, further than you did with the original muzzle, in order to form a proper ‘sight picture’. What I’m trying to describe might become a little bit clearer if you first take a look at this extract from an article by Rob Allen himself, about ‘How to Aim a Railgun’:


“The way I now aim is to look over the top of my gun. You can't use the top edge of the handle to line up with as the rubbers sit higher. For me to sight properly, (using sighting points like a rifle) I look over the top of the gun and line up the rear rubbers when loaded with the muzzle. When loaded the rubber creates a “V” like image between them. This is the “V” between the two diameters when looked at end on. The normal closed muzzle I line up such that the middle muzzle hole, the one the spear goes through, sits on this V as you would when sighting a riffle. If you try this and it still shoots high, lower the hole into the “V” more.”

So Rob is making a comparison between the ‘sight picture’ produced by lining up the muzzle and rear rubbers of the speargun, and the ‘sight picture’ produced by lining up the fore sight and rear sight of a rifle.

Now, if the profile of the new muzzle is much lower than the profile of the old one, then when you come to aim there is a chance that you may need to raise the muzzle (fore sight) so high, to form a decent ‘sight picture’, that you end up shooting over your target (there is even the danger that it is impossible to form a ‘sight picture’ that would be accurate, i.e: the point on the fore sight that you would need to use to produce an accurate shot is actually above the level of the new muzzle!).

Hope that is clear. It’s just something else for you to consider when fitting a new muzzle to a speargun (and I only mention it because I’ve had similar problems myself in the past). You should be OK with the 120, but on shorter models of the Sparid it could present a problem (especially the 70cm version, which I am convinced shoots high anyway, so changing the muzzle on that particular gun might actually prove to be of benefit - but then that's another story).

Good luck, and hope it all turns out fine.

.
 
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