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how to laminate teak?

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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riffehunter717

riffehunter717

New Member
Mar 7, 2007
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I have some teak wood for making a gun and need to know the basics of laminating someone please help
 
Doesn't seem to be a lot of point to having this forum by that standard. It all must have already been written and there is nothing else left to learn. Do they have an explanation of the meaning of life there too?
 
Pastor said:
Doesn't seem to be a lot of point to having this forum by that standard. It all must have already been written and there is nothing else left to learn. Do they have an explanation of the meaning of life there too?
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Excuse me...
What I meant was that there is no point in writing it all again when so many threads already have great information on the subject - some if which are on deeperblue.net.
Pastor, do you have an explanation of the meaning of life?
 
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:naughty We are the best here at deeper blue!!! Never forget that and remember that we are the best.

And i am not pastor, but i say the meaning of life is what you make it.

for teak, make shure you have good, flat, clean surfaces. Apply an even coat of epoxy and clamp it. There, i just wrote it!
 
Reactions: foxfish
octpora said:
:naughty We are the best here at deeper blue!!! Never forget that and remember that we are the best.
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Well there are some bloody good people here I'll agree with that!

octpora said:
And i am not pastor, but i say the meaning of life is what you make it.
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Well I think we are here to carry on and evolve our species but some say the meaning of life is 42, which actually is a cool number so I could live with that also

octpora said:
for teak, make shure you have good, flat, clean surfaces. Apply an even coat of epoxy and clamp it. There, i just wrote it!
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Yup, epoxy works both by mechanical and chemical bonding. Try to maximise the surface area by not only keeping both surfaces flat but you can also get some very coarse sandpaper and key both mating surfaces. Clean is vital too, some use acetone to wash down the glueing surfaces. This gets rid of dust/dirt and also a little of the natural oils that are in the wood helping the chemical bond of the glue. Another thing you shouldn't do with epoxy is over clamp it. Good firm even pressure yes but not so much as you deform the fibres of the wood, epoxy needs to have a thin layer of its own between the two laminates; squeezing out all the glue won't help. When I say a chemical bond I mean it to be more of a mechanical bonding at a microscopic level rather than an actual chemical reaction, which of course might actually happen, I don't know.
 
Hi - my tuppence...
I would cut the lump o' teak (presumably from one plank ?) and then reverse the laminates so that the grain runs opposite per lam. This will stop any tendency for movement (ie when one lam tries to move the other one is also trying to move in the opposite way so you reach nice harmonious balance )

Then I would plane the glue faces very accurately (in a perfect world... my experience of jointing is limited and I would try on a few bits of wood before you go making banana shapes from your lovely cut stock). Ideally when you butt all the lams together there are no gaps and the surface is cut with a plane.

I think I am right in saying that modern glues (including 'poxy) work by chemically bonding with the wood pores. When you rough this up with sandpaper you mush up the fibres and actually have a worse joint. I think that the prefered manner is to cut the fibres (ie plane) to allow the glue to bond in the wood pores.

I've only laminated teak once (http://forums.deeperblue.net/homemade-spearguns/63452-teak-80-part-one-stock.html) and I wiped the lam faces to be glued with acetone. THis clears some oil from the pores and allows the glue to work.

Try West System slow cure epoxy and have fun !
Cheers
Ed
 
portinfer said:
When you rough this up with sandpaper you mush up the fibres and actually have a worse joint. I think that the prefered manner is to cut the fibres (ie plane) to allow the glue to bond in the wood pores.
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That isn't strictly true, a sharp sandpaper will cut through the fibres relatively easily leaving a reasonably clean cut surface with a larger surface area and an ideal ground for an improved mechanical bond. The ideal would be a toothing plane as used before glueing in days of old but it's not everyday you come across a usable one of those. You are right in that sandpaper that has started to dull will screw up the joint in the way you say by leaving a damaged surface to glue too.
 
I have been using polyurethane glue recently, I have used it at work for various projects & found the ease of use (300ml tube in a mastic gun) cost (£6,00) speed of setting (about 20min) make this type of glue a very tempting spear gun glue alternative.
 
I used polyurethane glue for my last project and then oiled the gun... I'm not sure wether or not that will prove to be a good solution but time will tell.
 
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Yes, do tell and then we can steal your good advice or cry with you.


Pastor, i forgot it was 42. But i hope i don't forget to put a paper bag over my head and drink a final pint!
 
Reactions: Pastor
Ok so all the good advice has allready been given...
Most importantly Id say will be that the grains for your laminates runs in opposite directions and Id go with roughing up the surface to be glued a bit and make sure its clean of dust ect. Use the slow cure epoxy, 12 hours I think and leave it for a couple of days before taking it out the clamps and working on it. When you clamp make sure you have no bubbles between your laminates, this will create weak points and also places for water to seep in, so even clamping all along the stock in more than one direction (width and breadth wise) is the key. Yes this is going to take a while so make sure your stocked up on some brews :friday
 
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thanks for all the advice im just gonna give it a shot one of these days i have time to get around to it. The teak i have is the decking from a ship my dad salvaged so i hope it works out alright
 
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