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Knives for nets

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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Jonny250

Job 41:7 can you?
Sep 8, 2007
2,820
812
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OK so I think that most of us have some concern that we could end up in a net at some point, however remote the likelihood. I've read the previous posts on this, OMD's experience fairly recently and also (was it mr X?) another net encounter from a uk spearo.
I currently use an omer mini laser knife (very good too) but am looking to get a second knife more specifically 'in case' i do get caught up. I'm just canvassing for opinions on the best knife for the job - theres plenty to choose from, including knives with shears, line cutters and the specific enclosed rasor blade type.
My favourite at the mo is the Riffe Spearfisher knife which I've read can cut some heavy duty line...
There seem to always be nets where i want to go fishing at the mo!
What do you suggest?
 
I got caught up in some mono gill net too. I have an old Omer something or other knife, looks a little like the laser but with a different handle. A bit crap to be honest but as long as you keep it sharp it's OK. I used the serrated edge with the best success to hack myself free. I don't think it matters too much which knife you choose as long as you keep it sharp. The less you like to look after your kit the better its quality should be I reckon. Also the more bits you have strapped to you the more likely you'll get caught up, so low profile sounds better to me; maybe a glued on or sown in pouch?
 
Reactions: Mr. X and Jonny250
I'm kind of a knife junkie so this thread is right up my alley. Depending on the kind of net you are talking about the edge of the knife will make a big difference. For thin monofilament nets, which are usually small nets, a sharp knife with a straight edge will work best. A broad serrated edge will get stuck and not work well. However, chances are you're not worried about these kind of nets because they're not the "usual suspects" that cause problems for divers. Most likely you see the nylon braid nets that commercial boats use. In that case I'd go with Pastor and say that a serrated edge will work best. Something long will be best, more cutting edge equals getting out of trouble faster, which could be a life or death difference. There are also combo edge knives which are a GREAT compromise. I have a benchmade H20 knife with a combo edge that I'm looking to get rid of. I've never used it because it doesn't suit my needs but I paid over $100 for it. Unfortunately I think it's too short to suit your needs.
 
Reactions: Jonny250, foxfish and Old Man Dave
The nets we have a problem with are small shore or dingy set mono gill nets. They are common over here and almost invisible, hence Jonnys problem.
 
Yup that's the stuff. The mono catches the serrations and ping it's cut. Not sure if it was better actually but it felt it and more control/less effort
 
Pastor I am surprised with your reply as I would of thought a very sharp edge would be more affective, you obviously know how to get a sharp edge so I assume you have a valid point.
 
Trying to look back I think I was able to cut many strands as the serrations caught the filaments on the way up etc rather than having to cut one at a time. The serrations acted a bit like one of those line cutters that didnt need lining up
 
That's very useful info, thanks Pastor, alexrom, guys.
oooh, time to go shopping...
 
Out of interest, how do you sharpen a serrated blade?
 
Buy the way Tom you were asking about sharpening knifes well Piette have a deal on diamond stones at the mo £20 - I paid £60 for the same thing last year!
 
Is that so? May have to pay a visit, I've been using a cheapo stone from Aladins cave and to be honest I can get it sharper with me dremel.
 
Ok, cool, cheers mate. Will get it saturday. Thanks a lot
 
I wouldn't use a dremel to sharpen a blade, it won't take much to damage the temper. Diamond stones are as good as anything and at £20 well worth the investment. Personally I like Japanese water stones but that is just a preference, diamond stones were silly money until quite recently.

The dificulty most people have sharpening is that they don't achieve the same angle when drawing the blade over the stone causing a rounded edge. What you need to do is: Set the stone securely on a flat surface about waist high. Stand close to the table or whatever with the blade on the stone at about the correct angle with one leg in front of the other, then lock your elbows into your sides so that your blade is rigid to your body. Now starting with the blade at the far end of the stone rock back on your back leg. Always backwards, never forwards, 5 times on one side and 5 on the other. Do this 3 times on your course stone then switch to your fine stone, same procedure but 5, 4, 3, 2, 1 and your blade should be burr free and truly razor sharp.

To sharpen a serrated edge you'll need a slip stone as well (ask in that shop). similar procedure as above.
 
Reactions: Magpie
I don't use the dremel mate, just saying that I could do a better job with it than the edge I get from this stone.

I do try to keep the angle the same, but always backwards? I read something that said go forwards, maybe thats the problem!

Cheers.
 
Magpie said:
I do try to keep the angle the same, but always backwards? I read something that said go forwards, maybe thats the problem!
Click to expand...
I'm a bit anal about sharpening but the idea is that you don't break the burr off but polish it off (I just pray that Sara doesn't read that). Going backwards and forwards tends to do that leaving a ragged edge that isn't quite as sharp as it could be. Years gone by when Arkansas stones were the thing to use it was less of a problem but modern stones such as diamond coated and especially the ultra soft Japanese stones have made it one
 
Well if I am sharpening work tools I would be using Pastors method however for knife sharpening using a diamond stone (actually synthetic diamonds affixed to a perforated steel plate) I use a completely different technique.
Diamond stones use water as a lubricant so I hold the knife steady under a dripping tap & move the stone to get the edge. You can use a circular movement to quickly regain an edge & then stroke the stone toward the point one side & toward the hilt the other
 
wouldnt a pair of shears be more effective then a knife in this situation?
 
Last edited:
Good point, if you could stay calm enough I think you could be right?
 
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