Line release?

[freemanbf]

I just built a new gun using a riffe trigger assembly. The assembly is about 10 years old. I didn't have a line release for the thing so I ordered one from Riffe. I tried to put the whole thing together and I can't friggen figure out how the line release hooks up to the trigger. It just doesn't connect. Is it possible that this LR doesn't fit the trigger assembly. Does Riffe make different LR mechanisms for different triggers?

That being said, and since I have no patience to wait for another LR (I live in Japan), is it possible to rig a break-away using the shark tabs on the shaft. I remember somewhere reading about this. If anyone can give me some direction on where I can find instructions on this, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,

Brian

 

[Tin Man]

That being said, and since I have no patience to wait for another LR (I live in Japan), is it possible to rig a break-away using the shark tabs on the shaft. I remember somewhere reading about this. If anyone can give me some direction on where I can find instructions on this, I'd appreciate it.

I can't help you with the Riffe line release, but I think that the system that you are referring to as using the shark tabs is the "Heinrich" line release system.

 

[popgun pete]

I think the line release in the Riffe trigger mechanism is the same for all of them, except maybe the Euro version which I have not examined. The line release lever is a flat metal bar with one end rounded and the other end pointy, the pointy end pokes through the rectangular side window in the trigger mechanism's right hand side and is acted on by the tapered cutaway in the sear lever tail (a wedge shape formed on that side) which you can easily view from underneath the mechanism. The pointy end faces forwards and the outer rounded tip curves back from the leading edge to the straight rear edge, so you need to put the lever in with it the right way up! The line release lever pivots on a long 1/8" diameter grub screw with an Allen key (hex socket head) which is supplied with the Riffe line release lever kit. Where you put the locating hole for this grub screw (N.B. drill a smaller hole and let the screw cut its own thread) into the wood stock is important if you want it to work properly. I made myself a cardboard template which uses the rectangular pocket cut for the trigger mechanism as a location reference guide, the Riffe mechanism's external width being 5/16" except for where it swells out more at the top around the spear tail receiver. If you measure from the front of the installed Riffe mechanism to a point 1.5" behind its leading edge and 3/8" perpendicularly out to the right from the centerline of the trigger mechanism then you will have the correct pivot position for the line release where you can drill the necessary hole. The cutout you make in the wooden stock outboard from there, which the line release arm will sweep through, should hold the line release at 55 degrees out from the stock's side when the line release lever is flopped rearwards. That lever angle will keep a small section of the lever's pointy end sticking inside the mechanism case which the sear lever will easily push out of the way when you next cock the trigger mechanism. The line release lever can only swing so far forwards as that pointy inner tip will eventually hit the rear end of the side slot in the mechanism case, or you can stop it just before then with a limit built into your cut-out in the timber stock where the line release lever sticks out that side of the gun. If you drill the hole only 5/16" out from the mechanism centerline then you risk the pointy end wiping the opposite interior wall of the mechanism's case and thus catching on it, plus the wedge cut into the sear lever arm tapers down to a very narrow flat bottom section and you do not want that sitting on the pointy tip of the line release lever or it will not push the lever aside. The wedge is deliberately put there to push, so that pointy end has to rub against the angled face for the sear lever arm to achieve the correct setting action on the line release lever.

As a check for the line release lever being located in the right position if you swing it so that it sticks out exactly perpendicular (in terms of its straight front and rear edges) to the stock then the distance from its exposed rear edge to the front of the trigger mechanism will be 1-5/8" measured along and parallel to the stock. The line release lever's pivot hole is slightly offset to the rear side of the line release lever, about 1/8" inwards from that straight edge. On the Riffe Metaltech guns the line release lever has a biasing spring that keeps it always flopped to the rear, but on the wooden Riffe guns you just rely on gravity to swing it back, so the line release lever needs to be loose in its slot.

 

[popgun pete]

I looked up a printed Riffe catalogue (all blue cover, dates from the first intro of the Euro) and see that there is a spring biased version of the line release in kit D-1025, the line release I used was from kit D-1000, just the line release lever and the pivot screw. The inner pointy end of the levers shown in the catalogue photo for both those kits now appear to have a small slot to catch one end of the biasing spring which sits in a long tubular holder; I assume the spring and the holder encircle the pivot pin and the holder keys into the stock to immobilize one end of the spring, but someone else is going to have to comment as I have only that photo to go by.

The 2010 Riffe pdf on-line parts list shows:
D-1025 Spring Line Release Assembly with holder (D-1005)
D-1026 Spring Line Release Assembly with holder (D-1000)
D-1000 Line release assembly (#Island, #W, #4 Baja, #5 Baja and Euro Series)
D-1005 Line release assembly (all Comp series, #1-3 Standard, #B-N Midhandle)

My printed Riffe catalogue only shows the D-1025 and D-1000 kits in the photo, the spring in its black tubular holder is supplied with the D-1025 kit and the D-1000 kit comes without it, maybe one lever is slightly longer, but hard to tell from the photo. The D-1026 and D-1005 kits are not shown.

 

[pinoycatfish]

@freemanbf if your spsearshaft have at least two sharkfin tabs, just wrap the mono on the last tab you can do double wrap or single. i think they call that kind of line release a heinrich line release. it`s a bit slower but with practice... much better than a friction or clip line release. happy new year to all :friday

 

[poacher]

This works for me its OK with tabs to have a bridle loaded on the tab also but not so good with Notched euro style shafts unless you just use the spare notch and load the other, this cuts the option of using 2 rubbers but my 1m gun is OK with 1 anyway.
Where are you from in the phils Pinoycatfish ?

 

[pinoycatfish]

poacher i`m from Bicol Camarines Sur, Philippines. i make my own equipment except fins and mask (Gull Abeam) i also make mask the oval type using inner tube of heavy equipment trucks i usually give it away to friends (fresh water spearos) who can`t afford a good dive mask. the gull abeam was a gift from my ex gf who married a japanese. good day