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Maintaining U.W. camera housings guide!

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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bgill

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[SIZE=+2]Camera Housing Use and Maintenance Guide:[/SIZE]


Most U.W. camera housings are designed and built to withstand years of professional use with minimal maintenance. This guide will help users to get the most out of thier camera housings:


Use silicone grease, vaseline (some say vaseline ruins "O" rings?) or a similar lubricant on the 'O' ring and control shaft seals to lubricate the rubber. Lubricate the main 'O' ring every time the housing is used. Lubricate the control shaft seals when the control gets "sticky" and hard to operate. Too much lubricant will attract sand and dirt. Wipe leftover lubricant off with a paper towel or rag when finished using the housing.

Don't overtighten the wing nuts. You can see the 'O' ring seal through the front plate. Cranking down the wing nuts too hard will cause the 'O' ring to flatten and crack in the corners. When finished using the housing, loosen the wing nuts. Do not store the housing for long periods of time with the wing nuts tightened down. These simple precautions will prolong the life of the 'O' ring.

Some camera functions are operated by housing controls that push or rub against the camera's buttons, rings, control wheels or switches. These controls are adjusted by the small set screws on the camera housing controls. Check tightness of set screws, especially on frequently used controls like video camera zoom and record functions and the shutter release(fire) button on a still camera. Lens gearing systems are also adjustable by set screws. Most camera controls can be pulled out to prevent damage to the camera when placing the camera in the housing and removing it after use.

Condensation in the camera housing can be a problem, especially in cold water. This can be a big problem with video cameras, whose motors, viewfinders and discharging batteries generate a great deal of heat. Fold a couple paper towels and place them in the housing to absorb moisture. If the condensation is severe, a tampon or two in the housing usually takes care of the condensation problems.

If you have a video camera housing and the rubber pad on the bottom of the camera is making it difficult to slide into the housing, put a piece of tape(like masking or scotch tape) over the rubber pad and it will be easier to get the camera in and out of the housing. If the rubber eyepiece is rubbing against the top of the housing and sliding the viewfinder to a position where you can't see it, wet your finger and lightly moisten the top of the rubber eyepiece so it will slide along the housing top without closing the viewfinder.

If the camera housing has an external frame and/or handles, check tightness before using. External handles can be removed for easier and more secure transport. By removing the frame and handles, the housing is more likely to fit in a camera case to prevent damage while travelling.

If you have a camera where the lens is more than a few millimeters from the front element you may get reflections from the inside of the housing. Attach a collapsible rubber lens hood that goes up to the inside of the front element of the port. Cut the hood to fit if necessary. These reflections are especially noticeable with white camera housings.

Use teflon tape and silicone seal on port plugs, cable glands and flash housing "nipples". Vaseline or silicone grease can be used in an emergency.
Use fine grade plastic scratch remover to remove scratches from the front port. Fine scratches from sand suspended in ocean water are normal. Use scratch remover only when the scratches are visible in photos or footage. Overuse of scratch remover will result in blurry images. Plastic cleaner will remove small scratches and eliminate static electricity. Plastic scratch remover and cleaner can be purchased at plastic supply outlets and marine supply stores. Application of non-abrasive car wax helps water "sheeting" while shooting in the water. For telephoto still camera lenses, video and movie camera ports, using a chamois to wipe water off the port will cut down on water spots.

Clean housing with mild soap and water. Do not use aromatic cleaners. An organic cleaner like Simple Green will remove heavy dirt and grime. Do not apply duct tape directly to the rubber coating of the housing. If a sticker is applied to the rubber coating, it is there for good.

If the camera housing has an electric switch and uses a cord that plugs into the camera, and the camera will not fire, check the electrical contacts and the switch "boot". Check for corrosion on the camera plug and camera plug socket. These contacts can be cleaned with a pencil eraser, a white eraser is better than a red one. Contacts for the camera's batteries can also be cleaned of corrosion this way. Check the waterproof switch "boot" for holes or tears that allow water to get into the switch, causing a short circuit. If your camera fires uncontrollably when immersed in water, the boot is probably leaking.


P.S. - I found this on the "web" while looking for info on the subject...Being a"newbie" at U.W. photography I found it VERY informative, so I figured I'd put it up on here for the benefit of other's! Glad my cheap little housing does'nt need TAMPONS! But hey...Ya never know when the water gets colder! rofl










 
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Another way to avoid the condensation is to use those silica crystals bags that you find in biscuit tins. This should help with the condensation and you can avoid asking your girlfriend if she has any spare tampons!
 
Hi,

I'd just like to say that I would *never* let Vaseline anywhere near any o-ring. Modern camera and strobe housings tend to come with o-rings that are very sensitive to the wrong type of grease, and petroleum jelly definitely comes under that category. The only grease I'd use is the one specified by the person who manufactured or supplied the equipment. This is usually a type of silicone grease, but as there are different varieties, don't assume that any one will do. Some will make your o-rings swell, meaning that the next time you close your housing, it won't seal properly and you'll end up with a pile of very expensive dead equipment.

There are areas of life where you can play a little fast and loose with manufacturers' recommendations: U/W camera housings aren't one of them, unless you have *really* deep pockets.

Cheers,

Niall
 
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