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Making my RIFFE neutral again.
- Thread starterElvin
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
, There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
Elvin
I would suggest attaching some weights on the barrel, you do want the gun to be balance adding weights to the handle may make the problem worse (in my opnion) since you probably have light muzzle now.
My teak-sea has removable metal plates attached to the bottom of the barrel, I think the goal is to have the gun totally level in the water (again in my opnion).
Perharps you could try installing the reel inserts at the bottom of the barrel to balance the gun.
View attachment 11170
I would suggest attaching some weights on the barrel, you do want the gun to be balance adding weights to the handle may make the problem worse (in my opnion) since you probably have light muzzle now.
My teak-sea has removable metal plates attached to the bottom of the barrel, I think the goal is to have the gun totally level in the water (again in my opnion).
Perharps you could try installing the reel inserts at the bottom of the barrel to balance the gun.
View attachment 11170
Elvin
For the inserts check out this thread, Bill is the one who told me about, he is one the most helpfull guys in this forum.
[ame="http://forums.deeperblue.net/showthread.php?p=610295#post610295"]Input on Riffe? Standard Baja Plus vs. Mid-Handle Island - Page 2[/ame]
The insert is a picture of teak-sea weights, I will try it again.
For the inserts check out this thread, Bill is the one who told me about, he is one the most helpfull guys in this forum.
[ame="http://forums.deeperblue.net/showthread.php?p=610295#post610295"]Input on Riffe? Standard Baja Plus vs. Mid-Handle Island - Page 2[/ame]
The insert is a picture of teak-sea weights, I will try it again.
I will again, here is the bottom part of the teak-sea barrel, notice the weights. Maybe you could do something like that with your riffe, I think the goal would be to have the gun sync (slowly with shaft) on the horizontaly. BTW that is my opnion.
Last edited:
Strangelove
Wow ! that really looks great! That will do the job. I can unscrew it for using my blue water thicker shaft ! And screw it on again for using my thiner inshore reef shaft! love th idea!
How do I drill the hole for the slab? What is that metal slab? I've seen the inserts for the screws on wood, but never seen that metal slab. Were do I get it?
I have another problem.:head Perhaps you have another great idea ! The rig (s5 Riffe , ice pick slip tip, stainles steel cable ) ended up a bit negative in flotation. I think i can solve the problem ( I like a neutral gun floating point down for bluewater ) If I fit some floating material into the trigger handle, or clip some kind of small float to the bunggie cord, that migth solve it. Any sugestions on that ?
Thanks
Elv
Wow ! that really looks great! That will do the job. I can unscrew it for using my blue water thicker shaft ! And screw it on again for using my thiner inshore reef shaft! love th idea!
How do I drill the hole for the slab? What is that metal slab? I've seen the inserts for the screws on wood, but never seen that metal slab. Were do I get it?
I have another problem.:head Perhaps you have another great idea ! The rig (s5 Riffe , ice pick slip tip, stainles steel cable ) ended up a bit negative in flotation. I think i can solve the problem ( I like a neutral gun floating point down for bluewater ) If I fit some floating material into the trigger handle, or clip some kind of small float to the bunggie cord, that migth solve it. Any sugestions on that ?
Thanks
Elv
Elv
That picture is from my teak-sea guns, they came like that, I think the metal piece is chrome iron, but I am not sure, but if I was going to build something like that, I would probably use lead, I would figure out the amount of lead I need it, make a little mold for it. I would also paint the lead black before placing in the gun, lead gets really ugly with time. But I think there are better guys in this forum than me to advise you on what material to use. I am out of my league there.
About your blue what gun, you can always try varying the length on the shaft, but the real solution are the wing kits, but they make the gun bulky, I am not sure if I have a suggestion there.
That picture is from my teak-sea guns, they came like that, I think the metal piece is chrome iron, but I am not sure, but if I was going to build something like that, I would probably use lead, I would figure out the amount of lead I need it, make a little mold for it. I would also paint the lead black before placing in the gun, lead gets really ugly with time. But I think there are better guys in this forum than me to advise you on what material to use. I am out of my league there.
About your blue what gun, you can always try varying the length on the shaft, but the real solution are the wing kits, but they make the gun bulky, I am not sure if I have a suggestion there.
wing kits would have the opposite effecct they are to lift the front of heavy guns which are heavy due to a larger shaft and or weights added to gun to reduce recoil. and also provide resistance to muzzle lift due to recoil on big multi rubber guns if you wanted to make some weights like the one pictured I would use 316 stainless steel easy to find and good rust resistance just buy something like 20x8 or 20x 10 flat bar it will only need a radius filed on the nds and a couple of countersunk holes drilled in it a bit of a polish it it will look good and work well. if you cant make it your self any decent machine shop will but that will cost a few $.
Peter
Peter
Poacher
Evin had two issues, one was about a gun being too positive in the muzzle, I think, we suggest the same thing. But he also has a blue water gun that he wants to make it positive, that is why I suggested the wing kit towards the back (may be a small one), but I am out of my league since I don't own any guns with wing kits. Perhaps you could give him a better idea.
Evin had two issues, one was about a gun being too positive in the muzzle, I think, we suggest the same thing. But he also has a blue water gun that he wants to make it positive, that is why I suggested the wing kit towards the back (may be a small one), but I am out of my league since I don't own any guns with wing kits. Perhaps you could give him a better idea.
Sorry Strangelove,Elvin,
The way I understood it was that it was the same gun that was Neutral with the heavy Blue water shaft but too bouyant at the muzzle with lighter speed shaft. Am I wrong ?
if so and you do ave problems with a gun being too heavy in the nose due to big spear wings may help.
The small gun I made sometime ago was dangerous in my opinion as it was too bouyant in the muzzle with light shaft and could not be let go of as it floated with shaft in with muzzle ponted along the surface - I swam up from looking for a cray in a hole to see a spear pointed at me in a loaded gun not my idea of fun my other gun and now this one when fitted with a heavier shaft sink to bottom point down when let go underwater and are relatively safe to abandon when loaded as your unlikely to get infront of shaft
Peter
The way I understood it was that it was the same gun that was Neutral with the heavy Blue water shaft but too bouyant at the muzzle with lighter speed shaft. Am I wrong ?
if so and you do ave problems with a gun being too heavy in the nose due to big spear wings may help.
The small gun I made sometime ago was dangerous in my opinion as it was too bouyant in the muzzle with light shaft and could not be let go of as it floated with shaft in with muzzle ponted along the surface - I swam up from looking for a cray in a hole to see a spear pointed at me in a loaded gun not my idea of fun my other gun and now this one when fitted with a heavier shaft sink to bottom point down when let go underwater and are relatively safe to abandon when loaded as your unlikely to get infront of shaft
Peter
Poacher
I was wrong too it is just one gun, and depending on the shaft the gun is not neutral. The removable weights will address the thin shaft issue, but to make the gun more positive, he could try some kind of removable float system may be install the same inserts on the sides for a removable wing kit (somewhat pricy) or a piece of foam may be ?? The old black vipers had that, I personaly don't like them (but I also seldom blue water hunt). What do you think ?
I was wrong too it is just one gun, and depending on the shaft the gun is not neutral. The removable weights will address the thin shaft issue, but to make the gun more positive, he could try some kind of removable float system may be install the same inserts on the sides for a removable wing kit (somewhat pricy) or a piece of foam may be ?? The old black vipers had that, I personaly don't like them (but I also seldom blue water hunt). What do you think ?
Yes , you got it , the metalslab will go with screw inserts. I'll have to do some testing for deciding the weigh of the metal slab.
When I put the thicker shaft for bluewater hunting i need to fix small floaing material inside handle or attaching it to the bunggie in a safe eficient and hydrodinamic way. I could apreciate ideas on that last thing.
Tanks
everyone of you helped my a lot !
Elvin
Puerto Rico
When I put the thicker shaft for bluewater hunting i need to fix small floaing material inside handle or attaching it to the bunggie in a safe eficient and hydrodinamic way. I could apreciate ideas on that last thing.
Tanks
everyone of you helped my a lot !
Elvin
Puerto Rico
For me I would just add the weight for lighter shaft and accept the gun being a little muzzle heavy with a heavy shaft as i don't like the wings or other float type attachments- wings may be OK for a really big gun with 4 or more rubbers and a 10mm or 3/8 shaft which has a heap of recoil and muzzle lift or is excessivly muzzle heavy but not neccesary in my opinion on a normal 2 or 3 rubber gun with an 8mm or 5/16 shaft.