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For Sale MAKO: Q8 SS Inserts for Small ID Latex Bands

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
Mar 22, 2009
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Q8 Stainless Steel Wishbone Inserts for small ID (1/16") tubing

Designed by SpearQ8, who is arguably the most well respected authority on speargun kinetics and technology, these stainless steel wishbone inserts are made specifically for small (1/16") ID tubing, such as the MAKO/Primeline small ID tubing.
Q8SSWI-2.jpg


These are the best wishbone inserts for small ID tubing that I have seen.


    • You can change your dyneema without re-tying bands (no tools needed)
    • They are easy to install.
    • They won’t pull out.
    • And they keep the water from being siphoned into the bands.
    • These things are awesome!

Warning: Do not use these wishbone inserts for regular ID tubing. They are specifically designed for the MAKO/Primeline small ID tubing.

Helpful hint: Burn a “stop bulb” on each end before tying your knots. These “stop bulbs” provide additional protection against knots slipping.

https://www.makospearguns.com/Q8-Stainless-Steel-Wishbone-Inserts-p/mq8sswi.htm

Dive Safe
Dano
 
I ordered some yesterday. I’ve been using the Abellan inserts but these look like an improvement.
 
Hi Dano,

My inserts arrived just in time to tie a new set of bands. Its going to be nice not to have to dip them in plastic to avoid water intrusion as I've been doing with the Abellan inserts. My only wish is that they were a little longer. When I taper the bands a bit, its very hard to get the constrictor knot close enough to the end so that the insert protrudes far enough to get a knot behind it. The photo shows the comparison with the Abellan insert. I can make it work though. I just can't taper very much.



inserts.jpg
 
Thanks for trying them out and the feedback Bill. It looks like you made them work.

Here is an update on how to tie the wishbone for the Q-8 Small ID Inserts:


There are actually two knots that are recommended by SpearQ8.
• single loop
• double loop

In either case, before tying your knot, there are two important requirements.
#1: The bridle material must be stiff, like my South African Wishbone cordage.

I have tested wishbone cordage from many suppliers from around the world and the
South African cordage is the toughest cordage I have found.

#2: You must create a really good size “burn ball” at the end of your cord.
If you are unsure about the integrity of the burn ball, you can add a simple
half hitch knot at the end for added assurance that it will not pull through.

attachment.php

Below is a photo of the burn ball only.

attachment.php

Below is a photo of the burn ball plus a simple half hitch knot.

attachment.php


Single loop Knot:

Step 1:
Thread cordage through hole and create a burn ball at the end.
attachment.php


Step 2: Wrap the cordage around the shank one time and pass the end through the loop that you just created.
attachment.php


Step 3: Pull tight, ensuring the burn ball is well outside of the knot.
attachment.php


NOTE: For additional confidence, you can also tie a ½ hitch knot on the end after you create your burn ball.

Double loop:

Step 1:
Thread cordage through hole and create a burn ball at the end.
attachment.php


Step 2: Wrap the cordage around the shank two times and pass the end through the two loops that you just created.

attachment.php

attachment.php


Step 3: Pull tight, ensuring the burn ball is well outside of the knot.

attachment.php


Once again, I would like to thank SpearQ8 for sharing these awesome inserts with me.
We are all pretty darn lucky to have him around.

Dive safe,
dano
 
I’m using the 1.9 mm stiff spectra from Benthic and the double loop seems to hold although
I haven’t had them in the water yet.
 
I always double loop with metal inserts and the benthic dynema, too many slips on the single, must burn the ends for sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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