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Neck weights

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
I got my plastic clips from MEC, here:
Nexus 25mm Airloc Buckle - Mountain Equipment Co-op. Free Shipping Available
You could also get a cinch strap and use the nylon from that for tying your knots:
On Sight 150cm Side Squeeze Strap - Mountain Equipment Co-op. Free Shipping Available

Any outdoors shop should have something like that.
I double-tubed mine too, I like this because I don't worry about the lead leaking out, also a safety if one tube ever rips. If you double-tube make sure the outer tube is at least 10% wider, otherwise it's very hard to get it through.
 
Couple neck weight questions, and figured I could just add to this thread instead of starting a new one. I've asked a buddy about where to buy some led shot here, and he highly suggested not making a neck weight on my own. His reason was that it's not tested gear, and could cause trouble.

To add more info to why this isn't a good idea he said:

I've used one a little, and have noticed tons of people here doing the same. Any comments on this idea that rubber shouldn't be used in a neck weight because it would contract?

Also, I've found 3 guides:
Making a freediving neck weight
Making a Freediving Neck Weight Enjoy Freediving Blog
http://www.aucklandfreediving.co.nz/web_documents/neck-weight.pdf

They all work about the same, but use slightly different ways of sealing them up to the plastic clips. Any personal recommendations on these methods?
 
Hi,

The ones I have made (see AFC link) have very little air except between the shot, so minimal volume to contract. Inevitably this fills with water anyhow. Not found compression to be an issue.

I have used neckweights (and similarly designed ankle weights) for depth freediving and spearfishing for some time without issue. Perhaps the key thing here is to avoid having the tight neckweight around the neck. I have a gap of about 50mm between my neck and the weight.

I prefer a neckweight/weightbelt combination for spearfishing over a harness for streamlining.

Phil C
 
Hi All

I have found silicone tape very handy for sealing the ends and used it round the whole neck weight. Its used as a temporary fix for sealing bust plumbing pipes

It was a lifesaver recently as the inner tube split (packed to much weight into a a diameter tube that was not big enough) and the silicone tape held the shot in (although bulged quite a bit where the split was)

Averted what could have been a disaster if it had split while in the pool.

Also keeps the neck weight flexible compared to electrical/gaffer tape and you don't need to replace it every now and again.
 
Last edited:
use TWO tubes, and inner slightly thinner one, and an outer, one inside the other. They last years like that.
 
Finally got mine made. Was a serious pain to shove 2kg of weight into one for my small neck, but using a rolling pin, as sanso suggested, worked fine in the end.

One final question. When I went training last weekend there was some seriously nasty water dripping out of it at the end. I remember reading somewhere that this is what happens with the iron.

So I'm wondering:
a) does the iron just need to be 'cleaned' and this will eventually stop? and
b) will the iron eventually rust? Do I need to worry about anything that I hadn't thought about since water is getting in to the iron?
 
I'm assuming you mean lead? The leakage issue is pretty common. If you use tight enough zap straps (and two layers of tubing as suggested by azapa) this can be minimised but eventually you will get drippy whitish lead stuff, not good! One solution is when you make your neck weight, to seal up the ends with glue.

The lead issue (and wanting to be able to change the weight on the fly) is one of the reasons I've recently switched to a chiclet-style neck weight. It's not as comfortable (sits on my collarbones when I'm breathing up for dynamics, ow) but I don't need to keep it on for too long.
 
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