Hello All,
Here I sit. It is a beautiful day in Wisconsin, sunny and 25 C, and I'm sick as a dog
. [Like a royal idiot] while feeling my illness overtake my body, I neglected the warning signs and went diving with Jon yesterday. Mistake! Equalizing was a joke. I barely got down 20 feet. So today, I've been keeping this chair warm and putting togething a little something for you all, while nursing my convalescence.
My new gun arrived last Wednesday. It is very similar to the first model http://forums.deeperblue.net/showthread.php?threadid=34933 (same length and handle placement), but is now perfected (IMHO ).
1. The shaft groove diameter was reduced (since I only use a 9/32" or 5/16" Hawaiian. The original shaft groove was designed for a shaft of 3/8" or larger diameter. When a small hawaiian shaft was used, the shooting line would pull it to the left of that groove. Now the shaft stays centered when the shooting line is wrapped over the top.
2. The band slot was reduced to hold 3, 9/16 bands (originally 5,9/16" bands). The most I ever used was three, and the smaller slot keeps things much neater; not to mention gives an extra 1/2" of band-pull.
3. The muzzle reinforcement was changed from using a washer to a custom-cut piece of plexiglass. I don't know if this is stonger than the original design, but it does help to keep the milfoil from sticking in the muzzle. It also looks cleaner.
4. Pertinent trigger assembly (Riffe Mid-handle) parts were coated with teflon, effectively stopping any/all rattling noises. You can now grab the stock and shake it, and it won't make a sound.
5. The original wood backplate was changed to a piece of black plexiglass. This makes the back of the gun less bulky, and looks to be more durable.
6. The stain and epoxy coating were changed for asthetic reasons (I prefer the lighter stain and not-so-glossy finish).
7. The wooden butt of the gun was streamlined, and the curve was adjusted to better fit my chest.
8. The ballast of the gun was greatly improved (weight brought to the rear), and was designed specifically for fresh-water use.
This past weekend I tried the new gun and was blown away by these improvements. It is the perfect gun for my hunting style and water conditions. I put dinner on the table every night.
The designer/fabricator of the gun also included a series of photos with dictation that I have made available for you all here:
www.geocities.com/unirdna/Speargun_Fabrication.html
Since I know less than most of you when it comes to making and tweaking your own gun, I won't be much good if you have any questions. I simply made this site to be a source of information and discussion.
Hope you enjoy it.
Ted
Here I sit. It is a beautiful day in Wisconsin, sunny and 25 C, and I'm sick as a dog
. [Like a royal idiot] while feeling my illness overtake my body, I neglected the warning signs and went diving with Jon yesterday. Mistake! Equalizing was a joke. I barely got down 20 feet. So today, I've been keeping this chair warm and putting togething a little something for you all, while nursing my convalescence.My new gun arrived last Wednesday. It is very similar to the first model http://forums.deeperblue.net/showthread.php?threadid=34933 (same length and handle placement), but is now perfected (IMHO
). 1. The shaft groove diameter was reduced (since I only use a 9/32" or 5/16" Hawaiian. The original shaft groove was designed for a shaft of 3/8" or larger diameter. When a small hawaiian shaft was used, the shooting line would pull it to the left of that groove. Now the shaft stays centered when the shooting line is wrapped over the top.
2. The band slot was reduced to hold 3, 9/16 bands (originally 5,9/16" bands). The most I ever used was three, and the smaller slot keeps things much neater; not to mention gives an extra 1/2" of band-pull.
3. The muzzle reinforcement was changed from using a washer to a custom-cut piece of plexiglass. I don't know if this is stonger than the original design, but it does help to keep the milfoil from sticking in the muzzle. It also looks cleaner.
4. Pertinent trigger assembly (Riffe Mid-handle) parts were coated with teflon, effectively stopping any/all rattling noises. You can now grab the stock and shake it, and it won't make a sound.
5. The original wood backplate was changed to a piece of black plexiglass. This makes the back of the gun less bulky, and looks to be more durable.
6. The stain and epoxy coating were changed for asthetic reasons (I prefer the lighter stain and not-so-glossy finish).
7. The wooden butt of the gun was streamlined, and the curve was adjusted to better fit my chest.
8. The ballast of the gun was greatly improved (weight brought to the rear), and was designed specifically for fresh-water use.
This past weekend I tried the new gun and was blown away by these improvements. It is the perfect gun for my hunting style and water conditions. I put dinner on the table every night.
The designer/fabricator of the gun also included a series of photos with dictation that I have made available for you all here:
www.geocities.com/unirdna/Speargun_Fabrication.html
Since I know less than most of you when it comes to making and tweaking your own gun, I won't be much good if you have any questions. I simply made this site to be a source of information and discussion.
Hope you enjoy it.
Ted
Last edited:
