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Oak speargun

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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Jun 10, 2014
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I have started a speargun build from oak hardwood flooring. After all the lamination the resulting stock is like 3-1/2 inches by 1-3/4 in. So the gun is not square. After looking at several pictures I cannot decide if I want it sitting vertically or horizontally. I think horizontally would be less work when installing the trigger mech. I would like opinions as I have never used a wood gun.
 
Also I plan to power it on 4 14mm bands. I can pull 16mm bands but after a long day of free diving I think the 16s would wear me out. Any thoughts on this?
 
That is a large piece of wood, we could do with some pictures really?
loading bands is more about technique than brut force a single 18 or 20 would be a lot quicker to load.
 
Just depends on gun length, spear length & spear diameter!
With so little info to go on I cant really say!
 
Ok thanks. The plan is a 130 oak speargun with a tectonic reverse mech and 4 14mm bands propellling a 72" 9/32 shaft. I have the oak I just need to shape it.
 
blue water hunting, big fish then...
Mid handle enclosed track?
 
That's the idea though I am not yet proficient enough to make an enclosed track or mid handle. I just lack the general knowledge. Do you need a special mechanism for a mid handle gun?
 
how you will finish the gun?coating I mean , cause they keep telling water will absorbed and colour will change
 
I was hoping to make a gun from White Oak.
It's very old and tight grained.
What is the issue with oak?
Is their any resolution?
Many thanks
 
I dont think there should be an issue with white oak, its popular with coopers so must be pretty good with moisture. Oil finishes are popular on spearguns because they are, quick, cheap, easy to do, & easy to maintain, however they are not the best for every type of timber. For gluing the laminates, use laminating epoxy, not the foaming poly that some people suggest. I think the best way to seal a timber gun is with a first coat of warm & thinned laminating epoxy (using 5% epoxy thinner). Then several final coats of good two part polyurethane. The polyurethane is much harder & produces a much nicer finish than using epoxy for the final coats.
 
I dont think there should be an issue with white oak, its popular with coopers so must be pretty good with moisture. Oil finishes are popular on spearguns because they are, quick, cheap, easy to do, & easy to maintain, however they are not the best for every type of timber. For gluing the laminates, use laminating epoxy, not the foaming poly that some people suggest. I think the best way to seal a timber gun is with a first coat of warm & thinned laminating epoxy (using 5% epoxy thinner). Then several final coats of good two part polyurethane. The polyurethane is much harder & produces a much nicer finish than using epoxy for the final coats.
I think there is alot of sense in what you are saying.
Thank you for your contribution.
I found that white oak is a suitable material to use although not widely use in spearguns.
I think it will need a much more substantial finish then oil or wax.
I'm thinking of a two part car clear lacquer, similar to what you see on electric guitars. Ultimately, that is a form of epoxy finish.
 
I have used oak in many of my builds, lets face it , for two hundred years, monster oak boats ruled the waves!
There are a few issues though, oak is very dense, heavy, very hard and it often had cross grain that makes it difficult to work with.
Personally I am happy to use polyurethane glues, as long as you understand how they work and have enough clamps ... but epoxy is probably the best option.
Like Sharkey says , it is best to apply a warm coat of thin epoxy to a warm gun to get a decent penetration for long term protection.
Car lacquer is a great way to get a show finish but it is best used as a top finish coat over epoxy or polyurethane , there are epoxy top coat finishes available.
 
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That's the idea though I am not yet proficient enough to make an enclosed track or mid handle. I just lack the general knowledge. Do you need a special mechanism for a mid handle gun?
A router for starters will be essential and be sure to make a trusty jig for it to work both top and sides of your stock, also making a dummy stock will save you a lot of time and frustration in the long run while also giving you more confidence.
I made a short(42'') mid handle gun and the best thing i did after inheriting my dads power tools and with no practical wood work skills was to make a cheap soft wood practice piece then use all sides of it with the Router options and depths, the end result is a very practical and reliable Mid handle gun that i'm proud to call my own.
I had some good advice from both Foxfish and Portinfer, both their wood work skills and creative approach is up there with the pros.
 
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