Hi all, just a short vid on changing bridles from articulated to dyneema.
Articulated bridle to Dyneema Conversion - YouTube
Cheers
Articulated bridle to Dyneema Conversion - YouTube
Cheers
Last edited by a moderator:
-
Welcome to the DeeperBlue.com Forums, the largest online community dedicated to Freediving, Scuba Diving and Spearfishing. To gain full access to the DeeperBlue.com Forums you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:
- Join over 44,280+ fellow diving enthusiasts from around the world on this forum
- Participate in and browse from over 516,210+ posts.
- Communicate privately with other divers from around the world.
- Post your own photos or view from 7,441+ user submitted images.
- All this and much more...
You can gain access to all this absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!
Omer Articulated bridle to Dyneema
- Thread starterRon Bakker
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
, There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
Good idea Ron 
, I already did that with my Omer XXV 75. After carefully smoothing out the deep wishbone notches on the slim 6.3mm spear. I pinched the Dyneema from some screw-on Picasso Dyneema wishbones that didn't fit my Omer rubbers (different threads ). It looked to me like Picasso used a double-overhand (just like you) in each end, so I used the same, after passing the Dyneema through a small metal washer - which likely serves the same purpose as your rivet head, distributing the load & prevent the knot pulling though when under tension.
http://www.animatedknots.com/double...ge=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
, I already did that with my Omer XXV 75. After carefully smoothing out the deep wishbone notches on the slim 6.3mm spear. I pinched the Dyneema from some screw-on Picasso Dyneema wishbones that didn't fit my Omer rubbers (different threads ). It looked to me like Picasso used a double-overhand (just like you) in each end, so I used the same, after passing the Dyneema through a small metal washer - which likely serves the same purpose as your rivet head, distributing the load & prevent the knot pulling though when under tension.http://www.animatedknots.com/double...ge=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
Last edited by a moderator:
That animated knots is a good site, bumped into it a few years ago and tend to use it more than my knot book. It took me a while to find a shop that sold good quality files for reshaping the knotches.
Yes, I know what you mean. Regular needle-style files aren't really up to the job - at least the cheap ones I already had weren't (although they were rather worn and abused ). I bought a cheap Dremel-style drill but broke the grinding rods - which seemed the most appropriate too - using it on the stainless steel spear. In the end, I bought some relatively inexpensive, small diamond-coated files and those work quite well. Then I finished up with grinding, then polishing paste.
). I bought a cheap Dremel-style drill but broke the grinding rods - which seemed the most appropriate too - using it on the stainless steel spear. In the end, I bought some relatively inexpensive, small diamond-coated files and those work quite well. Then I finished up with grinding, then polishing paste.
Last edited:
It's really a personal preference kind of thing. I suspect most spearos will stick with whatever type of wishbone they used when they first learnt to spear. I started spearing with a Rob Allen railgun. These South African railguns are equipped with Dyneema cord wishbones. I find them much less intimidating than the knife-edged metal wishbones fitted to most European spearguns as standard - such as the otherwise excellent articulated Omer wishbones fitted to your and my Omer XXVs.
I've never cut or injured myself using a Dyneema wishbone, despite using them extensively. However, I did once cut my finger and glove quite badly using the metal wishbone mentioned above, despite using it far less and having considerably more experience loading a speargun by then. Admittedly, I made a mistake trying to load quickly having seen a large fish after unloading as I approached the beach - but it wouldn't have been much of an issue with a Dyneema/Spectra cord wishbone.
Dyneema wishbones are generally (but not always) fairly cheap & simple, if you shop carefully and/or make your own but, as OldManDave pointed out, his metal wishbone was still going strong after 13 years (I changed my Dyneema wishbone once or twice in 2-3 years). Dyneema wishbones can last years if used carefully but once fouled or worn, you generally want to replace them, even if they are still mechanically sound - just in case.
They are the obvious choice to use with (inexpensive but good) bulk rubber, which has no threaded fitments. Using bulk rubber is generally cheaper than buying name-brand threaded rubbers - and you don't have to worry about whether Picasso threads fit Omer rubbers (they don't, in my experience).
I like the simplicity of a cord wishbone. Oh, and its quite a bit lighter too (unless you use the heavy metal toggles from spearitco.com), which can complement an ultra-light gun/set-up, like the XXV that you and I use. Oh yes, its quieter and less likely to scratch your (lovely carbon) barrel too .
So I guess the advantage is:
(1) less chance of you/your gloves being cut
(2) peace of mind from (1),
(3) the obvious(/only?) choice if using bulk rubber and
(4) light & simple
(5) quiet
(6) non-scratching
Disadvantages:
(1) not necessarily cheaper. And, if you already have a metal wishbone, the cost will be an unnecessary extra expensive.
(2) they don't generally last as long, so you'll need several & a special tool to insert them (or needle nose pliers).
(3) Can break while spearing - spoiling the dive. There are ways to reduce the impact of this, such as: double cord wishbones, toggle loops that allow a new wishbone to be tied in the water (hah!), carry a spare speargun (e.g. on the float, on the beach with family or locked out of sight in your vehicle), check the condition of your wishbone & the notches on the spear before each foray.
(4) You must ensure that the wishbone notches/grooves in your spears have there edges smoothed and polished, so they do not cut the cord, nor its protective sheath. Rob Allen spears come like that, most other spears don't. So expect to spend some time and money (on tools) to do that.
(5) Might affect the factory-set accuracy/balance of your speargun.
I've never cut or injured myself using a Dyneema wishbone, despite using them extensively. However, I did once cut my finger and glove quite badly using the metal wishbone mentioned above, despite using it far less and having considerably more experience loading a speargun by then. Admittedly, I made a mistake trying to load quickly having seen a large fish after unloading as I approached the beach - but it wouldn't have been much of an issue with a Dyneema/Spectra cord wishbone.
Dyneema wishbones are generally (but not always) fairly cheap & simple, if you shop carefully and/or make your own but, as OldManDave pointed out, his metal wishbone was still going strong after 13 years (I changed my Dyneema wishbone once or twice in 2-3 years). Dyneema wishbones can last years if used carefully but once fouled or worn, you generally want to replace them, even if they are still mechanically sound - just in case.
They are the obvious choice to use with (inexpensive but good) bulk rubber, which has no threaded fitments. Using bulk rubber is generally cheaper than buying name-brand threaded rubbers - and you don't have to worry about whether Picasso threads fit Omer rubbers (they don't, in my experience).
I like the simplicity of a cord wishbone. Oh, and its quite a bit lighter too (unless you use the heavy metal toggles from spearitco.com
), which can complement an ultra-light gun/set-up, like the XXV that you and I use. Oh yes, its quieter and less likely to scratch your (lovely carbon) barrel too .So I guess the advantage is:
(1) less chance of you/your gloves being cut
(2) peace of mind from (1),
(3) the obvious(/only?) choice if using bulk rubber and
(4) light & simple
(5) quiet
(6) non-scratching
Disadvantages:
(1) not necessarily cheaper. And, if you already have a metal wishbone, the cost will be an unnecessary extra expensive.
(2) they don't generally last as long, so you'll need several & a special tool to insert them (or needle nose pliers).
(3) Can break while spearing - spoiling the dive
. There are ways to reduce the impact of this, such as: double cord wishbones, toggle loops that allow a new wishbone to be tied in the water (hah!), carry a spare speargun (e.g. on the float, on the beach with family or locked out of sight in your vehicle), check the condition of your wishbone & the notches on the spear before each foray.(4) You must ensure that the wishbone notches/grooves in your spears have there edges smoothed and polished, so they do not cut the cord, nor its protective sheath. Rob Allen spears come like that, most other spears don't. So expect to spend some time and money (on tools) to do that.
(5) Might affect the factory-set accuracy/balance of your speargun.
Last edited:
Yes. Electrician's tape can also be used as cheap simple protection for those that prefer to stick with metal wishbones. Handy for hiding the white and red logos on the non-gold Omer XXV model (from fish that can read, obviously ).
).