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Pimp your speargun? Ideas? Preferences?

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.

Did you customize your spear-gun(s)? (Tick any that apply)

  • I always pimp my spear-guns

    Votes: 10 52.6%

  • I tweaked at least one spear-gun

    Votes: 5 26.3%

  • I'm happy to run with the factory configuration

    Votes: 1 5.3%

  • No but I am thinking of tweaking my spear-gun(s)

    Votes: 2 10.5%

  • I made my own spear-gun(s)

    Votes: 8 42.1%

  • None of the above

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    19

Mr. X

Forum Mentor
Staff member
Forum Mentor
Jul 14, 2005
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How would you improve you spear-gun(s)? How have you already improved or tweaked you spear-gun(s)? Do particular models have particular strengths/weaknesses that you like/admire/dislike?

Most modern spear-guns leave the factory/retailer with a good working set-up but inevitably many spearos(/spearas?) think they can improve on it, perhaps for a specific use or personal preference. Tell us what floats your boat or gets your goat.
 
I've played around with spear/rubber configurations to try and improve accuracy or make the gun lighter to reduce strain on my wrists. I've also added clips, and removed loading pads. I've also "double strung" guns, added another rubber, cut down spears to suit other guns and remade floppers. Filed different shaped points onto spears, swapped between stainless and high carbon spears, cut down carbon barrels and made guns out of odds an sods (managed to make custom bungs an sealed the barrels) and once I even added a custom camo wrap to a gun and then lacquered it...... So not too much ha
 
Omer clear muzzle bridge

Any tweaks that worked well or that you particular like, that have stood the test of time as it were?

I particularly like Rob Allen's bulk rubber, double-rubber closed muzzle (also used on other railguns) - apparently it takes an extra 10cm of rubber compared to screw-in bands but it does block vision down the top of the barrel. Blocked visibility down the spear/barrel is one of the main reasons I hear for folk trying open muzzles. (RA recommend that you sight down the side of the barrel rather than over, which is probably a good idea anyway).

I've only used closed muzzle configurations so far but I must say that I like Omer's use of a clear, replaceable/removable plastic top bridge (on the Omer XXV and, I think, some Cayman models). It seems to provide the best of all worlds. It looks fragile but they ship a spare & I've not broken one in several years of use.
 
Probably one of the most beneficial tweaks I've done is to change my ra caranx (70cm, originally with 20mm band and 7mm spear) so it now uses 18mm band and a 6.3mm spear. This is my night diving gun or hole fishing gun, it greatly reduced the pressure on my wrist (due to the weight of the spear I imagine) but now it tracks through the water better. I originally used a 16mm band with the 6.3mm spear but I found I wanted just that little extra oomph from it. Being a hole fishing/night diving gun long range shots are not necessary and it is still fairly accurate. Now I have replaced it (and all my guns) with stainless steel Picasso spears but I've not had chance to test them yet.

Another recommended tweek I would suggest is using 2x 16mm rubbers and a 7mm spear on long range guns. I've done this to my carbon 90 an I'm amazed at how powerful and accurate it is on full range shots. Just remember to double string when using this set up.

I agree with closed muzzles for ease of loading but I've been told (and I agree with the principle) that open muzzles are more accurate. I will e testing open muzzle on my Picasso gun later this year so will report back then
 
Hi Scoobaru, yes 7mm sounds heavy for UK fish. I too use a slim 6.3mm spear now, with 18mm screw-in bands (Omersub factory configuration).

I too suffered wrist strain & shoulder strain with my RA90. It was tip heavy which didn't help, so I fitted a cork in the muzzle loop at the front (Spaghetti reckons the Italian spearos often use this trick too), it did help some. My RA had a 90mm barrel and in/against a strong current that can exert quite a force. My current superlight Omer XXV carbon 75 doesn't, it is much smaller, slimmer & lighter - it's a complete contrast to the heavy duty RA. One is not better than the other - it is a matter of "horses for courses", the key is selecting which is more appropriate for the task at hand. The RAs can handle large pelajic fish (& conger?) with aplomb but the Omer XXV is super little bass/mullet/pollock gun - which better suits most of my current needs.
 
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That sounds good about the Omer guns, I started off with a very cheap old beauchat gun, then progressed onto a Cressida Geronimo. A local company started selling rob Allen equipment and I fell in love with the guns so purchased 2 and made a 3rd one. I also have a Picasso gun which I can't wait to try out in the summer (it's a 115 carbon so I need good Vis to use it). I totally agree with you about guns being better than each other, that is why there is so much competition between the top gun manufacturers. But I know some people who will not only alter the band and spear configuration, but they will use specific brands of rubber... Whether this is because of unique size (19mm vs 18mm etc) or different stretch rates/durability I'm not sure.

This is an interesting thread and hopefully it will help others realise just how much a gun can be customised for optimum comfort or improved use.
 
Yes, the RA railguns have many attractive features: bulk rubber muzzles, double rubber muzzles/spears, rails, tri-cut points, heavy-duty float -line swivel-clip, big rubbery handle. My favourite RA feature though is the dyneema wishbones. The European companies are starting to use these sometimes now but I fitted my own Dyneema wishbone to my Omer speargun, using the screw-on caps from the articulated wishbone it came with. I like the simplification. Dyneema is soft & quieter.

However, a good metal wishbone might help accuracy on a rail-less speargun and can last a life-time (dyneema can wear out in a couple of years but easy enough to repair or replace). I think the articulated wishbone that my Omer XXV comes with is probably a better than average one (the XXV seems to be a "premium model") - but I find that metal bladed edge that engages with the spear scary (it cut me & my gloves once - my own fault but cut none the less). But most folk seem to prefer to stick with whatever they first started out with.

I prefer the Omer's stainless steel spear, which seems to be standard equipment on most euroguns. The conical point is not as convenient to sharpen as a tri-cut RA point but not having to worry about rust is nice. Also easier to locate if you spear-line breaks (happened to me when using bungee spear-line that was too old) but also easier for fish to see. The huge difference in flopper/barb size, weight & strength between the two spears is remarkable - the RA big enough and tough enough to deal with tuna & marlin, the other a super lightweight, drag reducing design that I could bend with my fingers.
 
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I had to DIY my gun on the weekend. Went diving with a friend, and my articulated wishbone snapped. I was trying to catch dinner for ourselves and our guests and only had one fish. So I cut down my spear line, and made a bit of a DIY dyneema wishbone out of it. Works a treat!
 
I've Changed all my wishbones to the Picasso quick dyneema ones. I would say this is one of the best tweaks I've done. They are a great idea and allow a wishbone to be replaced within minutes. Even whilst on the water

Here's a link
Picasso Quick Dyneema | Picasso UK
 
Yes, I've seen those some of the SA companies offer them, neat. Pastor used to make his own using beads with a loop of Dyneema in each. You could then tie (with a sheet bend/double sheet bend?) a Dyneema wishbone of the appropriate diameter for the spear concerned between the two loops, which protruded from the each end of the rubber.

I've had a Dyneema wishbone break while out diving. Even if I had been using the above technique, I don't think I would have attempted to fix the wishbone in the water. But it would have been handy to be able to fix it quickly back on shore, without tools.

BTW I see RA offer a Dyneema wishbone with two strands of Dyneema - presumably a built in spare. Again, a beautifully simple idea. I should really make one of those & give it a try. My current Dyneema/Spectra wishbone is lasting well though - they seem dependable until the much weaker protective covering goes, then you need to keep a closer eye on them.
 
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Thanks for the advise. Ill remember to check mine before each outing.

I imagine that would really put a downer on your dive if a wishbone or rubber broke and you didn't have a spare.... Touch wood (head) it hasn't happened to me yet. But Sod's law says it happens to me when I'm having the best session I've ever had
 
Shark fin spears are a good mod, they can take 3mm dyneema too!
 
I struggle to load shark fin spears. I always catch my gloves/fingers and struggle to lift the dyneema over the fin. I much prefer slots, it's just personal preference. But I do agree with the theory of shark fin spears being stronger due to not having metal removed to create notches
 
Because I prefer to use enclosed track band guns there is no choice but to use sharkfins or post spears but, it is the fact you can use much thicker wishbone material that was my main point.
 
Reactions: uller
Fair point. I've never considered that. Thanks for sharing with us
 
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