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playing with a trigger mech concept . . .

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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Tin Man

Well-Known Member
Jun 27, 2006
253
55
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It's pretty tough to improve on the good trigger mechs that are readily available. They are strong, reliable, and relatively inexpensive. I have absolutely no intention of ever making any for sale. But still I often find myself thinking about other approaches.
This concept occurred to me a while back, and Popgun Pete's recent thread on trigger mech design inspired me to dust it off, and build a prototype to see if the idea would work. Basically, I thought that you could put the most trigger in the smallest package, if the levers could nest inside one another, instead of working around each other. So that's what this is. The sear is large, and fills up almost the entire distance between the mounting pins. The intermediate lever, and trigger, are then contained within the sear. You get a reduction of almost 10:1 due to the long sear, and then another 2.3:1 or so due to the intermediate lever, for a total reduction of 22:1

It also incorporates a few other features. The intermediate lever resets the line release automatically, and the black pin that you see in the lower left is an "hour-glass" shaped pin that functions as a built in guide for the pushrod. I really like a short, but crisp trigger pull on my guns, and this mech feels just right so far. It fires with just 1/8" or so of pushrod movement. With the 22:1 reduction, the pull force is mostly due to the single spring, so it's easy to adjust by simply using a stiffer or weaker spring.

There's also room for a safety pin behind the trigger, though I haven't installed one in this prototype. Lastly, the overall height is kept to a minimum. It's just 1-1/4" tall, and that would be the full installed height because the pushrod is already contained. Most mechs that I have played with require about 1-1/2" or a bit more to do a good remote trigger / pushrod installation. Length is the same 3" as the common mechs, with the same installation pin position as well.

The lower view is a cutaway, so that you can see inside the sear, to view how the intermediate lever and trigger interact.


IOMechcutaway1.jpg



These two cutaways show the latched position (above) and the fired position (below). Once fired, the intermediate lever is captured so that the mech cannot relatch until the shaft is re-inserted. I thought that it might be difficult to cock with the 22:1 reduction, but I was pleasantly suprised. It's as smooth as can be.


IOMechcutaway2.jpg


So anyway, that's what I have so far. It's probably an evolutionary dead end, and likely not even a new idea, but it's been fun to play with. Here are a few quick videos showing it in action.


 
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Great job, certainly looks very functional & a general improvement over the normal commercial stuff.
I wish I had the facilities & your skills to work with metal.
It is about time you got into pneumatics too!
 
lovely workmanship.

A doubt that is not really related to your work: what difference do you see between the notched and "square cut" sears and the more often seen "rounder" type?

Simple logic would assume that the latter is smoother while the former was chunkier but safer?
 
Very nice bit of engineering. I've toyed with the idea in the past but the laser I've got access to won't cut 6mm stainless. Also the low cost of off the shelf triggers makes it hard to justify the investment of time and effort. What did you use to machine it?
 
. . .what difference do you see between the notched and "square cut" sears and the more often seen "rounder" type?

Simple logic would assume that the latter is smoother while the former was chunkier but safer?

I think that's most of it. My impression is that the square notch can carry substantially greater band loads (as seen in tuna guns and such) because the square notch does not create a "wedge" affect against the top of the mechanism housing.
 
Very nice bit of engineering. I've toyed with the idea in the past but the laser I've got access to won't cut 6mm stainless. Also the low cost of off the shelf triggers makes it hard to justify the investment of time and effort. What did you use to machine it?

Nothing I do is worth the time and effort. What has that to do with anything? :D "Why buy one when you can make one half as good for twice the cost", my wife would say.

I'd be truly dangerous with a laser or waterjet. These were all cut on an old manual Bridgeport milling machine.
 
Sorry, but no. I share it here as a concept, and you are certainly welcome to explore it on your own. But I haven't had time to build a working version from higher strength materials, so it is completely untested for safety. I hope you understand.
 
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