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Project - Asso 135

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
The term free shaft means the spear doesn't have a slider but the line is fixed directly to the spear normally through a hole drill through the spear
 
foxfish said:
The term free shaft means the spear doesn't have a slider but the line is fixed directly to the spear normally through a hole drill through the spear
Click to expand...

In the US the term "freeshaft" is usually taken to mean a shaft without a shooting line. That is where confusion can occur as I said in another thread. A number of US speargun manufacturers offer "freeshaft" models of their guns, the guns all being band guns.
 
I had another dive today with the asso.
See the link below for the video.
The Asso will now be transformed with Mares jet parts and TOMBA Kit.
We shalll see the difference.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WEsoiWOPhg&feature=youtube_gdata]Spearfishing Sydney North Head 29.12.12 - YouTube[/ame]
 
I like your video, especially funny fish which you touched with tip of spear, it was funny.
 
The Gun has gone to the next stage.

New:
*Mares Handle
*Mares Nose Cone
*Mares Piston
*150cm 7.14 Spring stainless spear
* TOMBA F714 Kit
See Pics Below


I took the gun out for a Test today with only 600 pumps (the wet barrel had 750 pumps) The dive conditions were not favourable and vis was down so I won't post any vids until I have some better footage. Predictably (I have another dry barrelled gun) the gun is much better balanced, quieter and shoots smoother. But It is harder to load due to all the shooting line, 7mtrs of it!!! before I could use the line to wind in the spear and just put the spear butt in the muzzle, also now I have to drain the muzzle of water before loading. Also the thinner spear flexes more and feels like it has less punch (could be the dry barrel disguises the performance with less recoil and noise?). Currently It doesn't hit hard at the end of the shooting line. Perhaps another 150 pumps?



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Thinner shaft normally has less punch than the thicker one. Before using shaft with vacuum barrel you mast have it polished, to be shiny. Best result will be with 1 mm mono line. With 2 mm line there would be maybe 50 % less power. For good performance you should have about 22 - 23 bar with 7.14 mm shaft (1 mm mono). With thicker line even more, 24 - 25 bar. I prefere the kit with slider, it is easier to load, no mess with long shooting line. But you can use a micro slider made of line loop. http://forums.deeperblue.com/pneuma...oosing-spear-dry-barrel-gun-5.html#post899215
Than loading will be easier. You have a nice collection of guns!
 
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Thanks Tromic,

I need at least 1.8mm mono as this gun has been designed for large pelajics 10kgs + .

How do i polish the inner barrel?

Also do you mean a slider for free shaft? then i would have a big hoop below the muzzle that can catch on rocks and weed or a different kind of slider?
 
Maybe you do not need to polish the barrel if there are no scratches, just the shaft. Loop of line you can fasten to the gun with short elastic tubing (from bicycle?). That is a normal procedure with free shaft if using that kind of slider. It will be good if that front piece of line would be thinner than 1.8 mm. You'll have less drag.
 
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The 1mm mono I use has a 150lb breaking strain or about 70kg, coupled up with 600mm of bungee would that not be strong enough?
 
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Concerning the stowage of the line loop used on a line slide with a free shaft, or bare tail shaft, it may be possible to integrate it with the shooting line wraps. The line used in this line loop is slightly less than the length of the spear shaft to stop the line slide pulling off the bare spear tail, so when doubled up on itself it is half this length and on a long gun that will present a snagging problem if left to dangle free from the gun's muzzle. Let us call this loop the "captive loop" for want of a better term. I have my shooting lines adjusted so that there is just enough line to complete the required number of line wraps on the gun with the line installed under tension. If the line length is adjusted to provide a final wrap that instead of going around the front wrap hook on the muzzle it passes instead through that "captive loop" and is then pulled back onto the line release finger it should hold that "captive loop" against the barrel or air tank of the gun. So you now have another line loop doubled up on itself, only going back to the line release finger, while the "captive loop" connects to behind the spear tip and the front attachment point on the line slide.

The only gun that I have using a bare tail shaft and line slide with "captive loop" is the very unsatisfactory "RPB-1M" and that gun uses a passive line clip made of wire, so you cannot use this method on that gun because the shooting line cannot be tensioned, but the Italian guns have a trigger controlled line release finger which should hold the "captive loop" under tension against the gun rather than leave it floating free. The only drawback is the line pulling on itself due to the inter-wrapping of line loops may abrade it as the "captive loop" is now functioning as an additional line wrapping point. Should be OK with woven cord line, but with mono may be a problem.
 
foxfish said:
The 1mm mono I use has a 150lb breaking strain or about 70kg, coupled up with 600mm of bungee would that not be strong enough?
Click to expand...

Hi Fox Fish, its not just the breaking strain of the mono/line but the resistance to tangles and tearing thanks to fish dragging rigs over the reef.

I have been watersking behind 15kg+ kingfishs before (like amberjacks) and i am not confidient the 1.5 mono would be strong enough. These fish were landed with 1.8 and 2.0mm mono.

How would you attach 1.8mm mono to a normal tomba slider (can this be done)?

Thanks for the info Pete. I think the free shat kit will go on the shorter guns as i allready use a similar setup with sucess on these guns. I like to keep this as simple as possible.
 

Few ideas:

http://forums.deeperblue.com/pneuma...mba-all-one-barrel-sealing-34.html#post863846

http://forums.deeperblue.com/pneuma...mba-all-one-barrel-sealing-39.html#post884134

http://forums.deeperblue.com/pneuma...mba-all-one-barrel-sealing-43.html#post895703
 
Thanks tomics, some good ideads there. I like the dynema being tied to the slider the attached to the mono.

I had a dive yesterday, I saw 3 big kingish 20gks + but they wouldnt pay ball. And i cliped the shoulder of a bonito that was easily 1mtr long and very fat. (i was devistated to miss that fish).

Can a TombaF be converted to a Tomba easily?
 
Reactions: GioDiver

TombaF and Tomba are very different kits. Could not be converted easily.
 
A little video of my dive the other day.

Make sure you watch in full screen.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3RJnhZ403E&feature=youtube_gdata]Spearfishing Sydney Jan 2013, Kingfish, Bonito - YouTube[/ame]
 
Reactions: vali
I have another Video.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUNT--s2U4U&feature=youtube_gdata]Spearfishing 16.2.2013 South Maroubra Kingfish Bonito Salmon - YouTube[/ame]

Marko has ssent me a new kit, which should be on there soon.
 
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