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removing rob allen handle from pipe
- Thread startertakahasc
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
, There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
I have the old handle with the carbon barrel. I have removed the handle once for transportation, i think I just removed the two screws and carefully twisted the barrel and it came loose. Its a while ago though so there might be some point I forgot. You can always mail the rob allen factory and ask, I have mailed them a few times with questions and they have always been helpful. The address is on their site http://www.roballen.co.za/
Howdy
The handle does come off.
The carbon ones do come off easier. The ali ones take some persuasion.
Cheers Paul - www.roballeneurope.com
The handle does come off.
The carbon ones do come off easier. The ali ones take some persuasion.
Cheers Paul - www.roballeneurope.com
Paul's right. And removing the muzzle is even worst. :ko This happens because oxydation (that withish stuff) occurs on the inside of the barrel between the plastic insert (of the handle or muzzle). This stuff acts like a cement between the barrel and the handle/muzzle. Rob told me how to decrease it in order to remove it, but I misplaced the email. :head
I think you have to pour some hot water before recoming it.
L.A. (Ted)
Rio
I think you have to pour some hot water before recoming it.
L.A. (Ted)
Rio
Paul, is there any chance you can check with Rob solutions for this problem? Last Sunday, my buddy Pedro came to the house for a visit and brought me my old Railgun that he cut down from 90 to 75 cm. It had a screw-in muzzle I had adapted. Pedro did the work for me because I'm ground with a broken leg :crutch . I had asked him to change back to the original Rob Allen muzzle.
Good thing I asked. He simply couldn't remove the european muzzle. He had to drill through and destroy it. When I got the gun I remarked the whitish stuff on the barrel edge near the handle. Trouble ahead if I ever wanted to remove the handle :hmm
Good thing I asked. He simply couldn't remove the european muzzle. He had to drill through and destroy it. When I got the gun I remarked the whitish stuff on the barrel edge near the handle. Trouble ahead if I ever wanted to remove the handle :hmm
I Have only just seen this thread, below was a response to a customer who had a problem with an old handle (not the new Vecta).
The best is to pre soak the area where the handle goes into the barrel in a release agent for a day or so (some are in spray form.) You then lie the barrel on a table (put an old blanket or carpet over the table so not to mark it) obviously take the spear out. The best is a small table where the muzzle can hang over one end and the mechanism the other. Now get someone to hold the muzzle end tightly while you hit the top of the mechanism (knocking it backwards and out) with a dive weight (being lead id does not damage the mechanism.) Hit in the area where the spear goes in, you will be surprised just how hard you can hit it. If anything it may just chip the edge of the cassette.
If it still refuses to budge, try tapping the barrel with a hammer all around the area where it is expanded then try again. The tapping can expand the tube a little and crack the seal. If this still does not work then heat can be applied. The amount of heat is not something I can describe, try a little at first then try to move. We have had a few where we have heated it up so much that the surface of the mechanism (the part touching the barrel) melts and the handle just slips out after melting the surface but without any real damage to the handle. This has happened on at least 4 occasions and the gun is still in use today.
Good luck.
Rob.
The best is to pre soak the area where the handle goes into the barrel in a release agent for a day or so (some are in spray form.) You then lie the barrel on a table (put an old blanket or carpet over the table so not to mark it) obviously take the spear out. The best is a small table where the muzzle can hang over one end and the mechanism the other. Now get someone to hold the muzzle end tightly while you hit the top of the mechanism (knocking it backwards and out) with a dive weight (being lead id does not damage the mechanism.) Hit in the area where the spear goes in, you will be surprised just how hard you can hit it. If anything it may just chip the edge of the cassette.
If it still refuses to budge, try tapping the barrel with a hammer all around the area where it is expanded then try again. The tapping can expand the tube a little and crack the seal. If this still does not work then heat can be applied. The amount of heat is not something I can describe, try a little at first then try to move. We have had a few where we have heated it up so much that the surface of the mechanism (the part touching the barrel) melts and the handle just slips out after melting the surface but without any real damage to the handle. This has happened on at least 4 occasions and the gun is still in use today.
Good luck.
Rob.