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Riffe Metal Tech - quick question

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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unirdna

tropical wuss
Sep 16, 2002
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Iya, Sven, Anderson, Rig and other Riffe 'enthusiasts':

Do you know how much the teak floater wing kit (upgrade) costs for Metal Tech guns? It only comes in one size right? I read on Riffe's website that the only way you can get this feature is to have it factory installed, so I'd better make sure I have the necessary funds when I make the call. Don't want any surprises. Thanks guys.

Ted
 
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icarus pacific

Human-in-training
Nov 7, 2001
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Jay and Julie are rightfully proud of their stuff so be prepared...:waterwork A hundred and change rings a bell in my noggin, with the biggest outlay being not just the teak, but the inserts that get installed in the barrel to act as sleeves for the wing bolts.

Lemme know what the damages end up being as I'm saving the sheckels myself to equip my #4.


sven
 

rigdvr

Not Available in Stores
May 28, 2002
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But Sven...if I add wings to my 4, won't I have to start using a weightbelt;)
 

Iyadiver

Mr. Long Post
Apr 22, 2002
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Uni,

US$ 85.00 for regular floater wing kit.
US$95.00 for floater with cut out for reel.
US$25.00 for the labor and the insert of the floater wing kit. You can't run from the insert. Too much a hassle for DIY.

Remember with aluminum muzzle the MT0 will sink even with floater wing kit. In fact I just emailed Riffe and they want to make a custom ( sligthly bigger ) floater wing kit for MT1 with aluminum muzzle. Price me don't know yet for the bigger floater and how it will work. Will let you know soon if I get any other info.

I just dismantled my MT0 for fun last week. I will post the photo here in a few hours so that you can have a very good idea of how MT guns are being assembled.....fun fun fun. I also dismantled Riffe reel fo fun to learn how their brake/drag works.
In a few hours my friend......
 

Iyadiver

Mr. Long Post
Apr 22, 2002
998
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The top aluminum barrel of the MT0 belongs to my friend. Mine is the second one and with the floater wing insert (female thread).
If you ever need to dismantle ur MT0, let me know, I have taken photos to keep myself not forgetting what goes where next time.
The difficult part will be removing the shooting line release pin. The Metal Tech is so much more difficult to rip off 100% compared to my Standard 2. Just remember the trigger unit must be cocked before you can slide it in. I dismantled mine just to check for sign of corossion............so far so good. Impressive care of anti galvanic prevention from Riffe.

I think I know now why the Metal Tech is cheaper, cost of teak wood aside. The teak guns are sure difficult and time consuming to make the cut out for the trigger and pistol grip, not to mention the lamination process. The Metal Tech are all precision molded, so 99.99% fit is guaranteed.

Have fun...........
 
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unirdna

tropical wuss
Sep 16, 2002
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Right on Iya

Thanks for the info and then some ;). Now I see why the floater wing kit is best installed at the factory. It's always fun to tinker and tweak, but for 25 bucks, I'll let Riffe do it. I always get a little nervous when I get out the drill - especially with brand new equipment. Are the threaded holes in the aluminum stock created by the mold or are they drilled?
 

Iyadiver

Mr. Long Post
Apr 22, 2002
998
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Hi Uni,

The insert is a later job. They drilled the aluminum barrel and placed it there. I suspect the actual shape fitted into the aluminum barrel is not round or else it will spin when tightened. Like the Muzzle Reinforcement kit on the teak Riffes, the female insert are rather oval.

It is quite fun ripping of the MT0, you see the level of care Riffe place in order to prevent galvanic corrossion of dissimiliar metal..... thumbs up to Uncle Riffe. If you see ur screws being dull silver, don't be surprised, it is a coating call Tionadized (something like that, not anodized ). All screws threaded into aluminum gets this coating, a very good pre caution. All stainless steel contacting the aluminum barrel gets plastic film shim. Reminds me the care they need when building aluminum yachts.
As long as you rinse and soak well in warm water after use, ur MT0 should last till for ur son to be old enough to handle it. The barrel is thick and very thick on the bottom part where attachments are installed, like the shooting line anchor.

Since the MT series is very heavy length for length it is a very stable platform when you power it up and that is also the reason it is a sinker. Can't wait for my MT3 to do full testing. I regretted that I have avoided this aluminum Riffe for so long.....previous aluminum gun experience was a deterent.

Hope you bring good dinner with ur MT0. Seeing the Halibut scene in the video, I am sure the MT0 will live to your expectation. Even Uncle Sven wants to get one....:D :D
 

icarus pacific

Human-in-training
Nov 7, 2001
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Indeed Iya. I'd love to try a #0, but the few things keeping me from doing so include my bank account :crutch , the length is still a tad too long for my areas :martial and I just re-did my JBL Customs to correct an annoying habit of missing fish :confused: so I'm going to hold off until I get so fed up that I'll end up making a smaller teak gun with some Aleaxander parts and pieces I have lying around... Love that wood! :inlove

Thing is that by the time I go dicking around making one, I'm spending the same amount :duh


sven
 

unirdna

tropical wuss
Sep 16, 2002
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Originally posted by icarus pacific
I just re-did my JBL Customs to correct an annoying habit of missing fish :confused:

What correction did you make??? Do tell please.
 

icarus pacific

Human-in-training
Nov 7, 2001
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I pretty much just stripped them, gave them a good cleaning and lube and put them back together. Then I did the guns...;)

I built some new bands from HanaPa's 5/8 blue hi mod rubber with the mondo wishbones from JBL and epoxied a JBL track to the barrel after wrapping it with electrical tape to get rid of the shine. A new shaft and twin barb spinner tips and a quick dry land test, unloading the thing tipdown to the floor, and I'm ready for the Fish and Game to let up and open the rockcod fisheries. :head


sven
 

unirdna

tropical wuss
Sep 16, 2002
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Cool. I've been thinking of beefing up my Custom as well. The original bands are 1/2", 14 inches I do believe. How long do you make your 5/8" bands? Oh, and which wishbones do you opt for (are there more than one kind)?

I haven't made my own bands yet, and would like to give it a shot. I've felt the tension on the 5/8" bands and would love to be able to put these on my custom since adding more (standard 1/2", 14 inch) bands really isn't an option (due to the spear style). Can the standard trigger handle the increased pressure?

Sorry for all the questions, but you've lit a fire under my ass.

Thanks,
Ted
 

icarus pacific

Human-in-training
Nov 7, 2001
2,880
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The bands I have on them now are 14" combined with the heavy wishbones from JBL, used on the bigger Magnum series guns- you'll recognize them by the flat section that fits into the notch of the shaft, red side down. You may have to tune up the notches to get them to fit smooth.

The earlier triggers, as in waaay old are fine for this use; if your gun has Swimmaster or Voit on the handle, you're golden :cool: Later guns fell to the bean counters that figured they could scrimp in the trigger area and save a sheckle every 37th gun, so be careful to take a gander at the sear and the safety notch. The safety will let go first as you'll have to smack the thing down with a rock to get it loosened while loaded. The new ones are supposed to have heat treated guts and all, but I've taken two apart and one had beefed innards and the other didn't so take your chances. Either way the trigger pull gets a tad much so get your grip going and forget about a smooth trigger pull- it'll end up being more of a quick clutch of the trigger, but seeing as how the fish here are all so stupid and easy to shoot, (Turdgeon, 2002) it's a moot point.

You can whip out the fine file you tuned the shaft with and gently ease the trigger sear, but you gotta know what you're doing, otherwise you're just going to introduce an accident quick. :blackeye

Using 5/8 bands is fine for the pure punch they can put to the shaft, but they're not the ticket for longer shots, and with the Custom or 4G32, that's 5 feet. The stretchier 9/16 rubbers would be better here as they'll actually stretch further and impart more velocity to the shaft. Since most of my shots are in caves and holes where the fish often doesn't let the shaft clear the muzzle, and I shoot the heads, the 5/8 band's punch is dakine. Much over 3 feet away and I have to do the wiley stalk, and with the red vermillion that's a job...


sven
 

unirdna

tropical wuss
Sep 16, 2002
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Thanks Sven

I'll look into the 3/8" and 9/16" bands. What your describing is exactly what I would like: a whole lot of punch at short range. I'm not really concerned with accuracy since most shots would be taken at 4 feet or less. I want a chainsaw to cut through the rough fish. I look forward to tinkering, but for now, all future expenditures must be postponed until the MT0 is in hand.
 
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