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Rust on Trigger Mechanism

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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Lobsterer

Member
Sep 11, 2010
2
0
11
Hey,

I searched previous threads and couldn't find anything similar to my problem. I own a Mako gun and I just noticed that when looking at the trigger mech through the shaft entrance, there are very noticeable and abundant spots of rust. I was a bit surprised, as I make sure to thoroughly rinse then gun and spray freshwater inside the mech as well.

So, do you guys and gals think that this rust is something to be concerned about, or can I just ignore it?
 
You can take the mech out. There are instructions on their site.

Take it apart and inspect it properly.

Post a pic here if you're unsure.


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Get a punch and knock the stainless pin out , trigger cartridge lifts out like that
 
Alright so i popped out the pin and inspected the mechanism. Its not "rusted over" but there are several spots of rusts scattered around. Most are in places that I can't reach with sandpaper. Is it okay to leave it be, or do you guys recommend soaking the cartridge in some type of rust-remover?
 
If it doesn't look "structural", then by definition it's likely superficial....


Never point it where it could hit something that you'd regret.


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Many hobby shops and gunsmith supply sell thin abrassive rods--sandpaper like tooth picks that could reach into the tight areas. Also 600 grit wet dry sandpaper cut into strips and rolled into tubes could work. Last resort use a small hair modelling paintbrush to apply some phosphoric acid rust remover--and then wash, dry and light oil--never DWD 40!!! Tedious but can be done.
 
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If it's on the sear, on the mating surfaces, it's a bit different if it's on the cartridge housing itself.


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Many/most types of stainless steel rust a bit. As agbiv suggests 600 grit wet & dry (which is good for maintaining sharp edges too), perhaps followed up with some metal polish - either "compound" (e.g. white/green "rouge") on a buffing wheel or cream metal polish/paste like Autosol. A friend at University studied materials science, among other things, he reckoned stainless steel has to be polished to work properly, although I've never seen that written anywhere, it sounds plausible.

..use a small hair modelling paintbrush to apply some phosphoric acid rust remover--and then wash, dry and light oil--never WD 40!!! Tedious but can be done.
I believe phosphoric acid (like tannic acid) is used as a rust converter, converting the iron ions to a more stable state, changing gingery rust to a more stable somewhat protective blue-black state. Hammerite have a product, Kurust, that is used & recommended by Britain's foremost wood carver, Chris Pye, for restoring rusty vintage tools, it leaves a pleasant, protective black surface - I reckon that might be good (it is probably phosporic acid!). He has a video of this on youtube ;)

 
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