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Seac Sub X-Fire 105

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
oh just got it, wings starts from few cms from the handle Looks like good design.
 
Ntrik: didn't you have accuracy problems with the gun? I didn't have much success with it since I bought it, so I decided to test it's accuracy with a home made target, well.. let me copy from another thread what I experienced:

"I have an x-fire 95 and I have problems with the accuracy... yesterday I tested it for about 3 hours with a home made artificial target, well, horizontally it's quite accurate but vertically... it shoots way the hell above the point it should hit.. at about the 2nd metre of it's range, it shoots about 15-20 cm above it, but then at about 2,5-3m the shaft gets crazy (I couldn't find out the reason for it yet) and suddenly goes even higher. My target is about 40cm high, and if I try to shoot the very bottom of the crosshair from about 4m, the shaft goes either above my target object (which means >40cm above the desired point!!!!) or hits the top of it (>30-35cm above the point I tried to hit). Perhaps I should put on the optional o-ring to the muzzle mentioned in the manual.. Maybe it would stabilize the shaft.. Or perhaps the problem is that I use 7mm shaft for it.. Any ideas?"
 
Hello

Havent had the opportunity to test it extensively yet as the northern winds have been seriously punishing my fishing spots and spearing has been impossible lately. Waiting for the winds to drop so I can put my own 105 to the challenge.

Lose the 7mm shaft, and go for a 6.25 or 6.3. Seac bands (17.5mm) are very explosive (like bulk versions of Cressi S45) and do not combine with heavy shafts. If you want to setup with a heavier shaft for penetration that is accurate, go for single bulk rubber Cressi G20 band, with your current 7mm shaft or Riffe Euroshaft 6.75 that cooperates very well with these bands. A secondary factor to consider especially in the vertical aiming you mention is learning to aim with an open muzzle, because rubbers are pulled at angle, wishbone blocks line of sight, and as the bridge over the muzzle of the gun is absent, it takes some conditioning to allign the gun with the target after being used to traditional band guns.
 
daiquiri said:
well, horizontally it's quite accurate but vertically... it shoots way the hell above the point it should hit..
Click to expand...

If the flopper is under the shaft, make sure the end of the flopper does not protrude when folded (acts like a rudder). If it does, hammer it flat.
 
Reactions: spaghetti
the problem was indeed the flopper - or the whole tip - I use a replaceable one cos I'm a newbie and I'm afraid to thrash the original shaft on a rock, I need some practice, that's why I'm using a 7mm shaft by the way, that was the only type available with replaceable tip. But yesterday I tried taking the tip off, and shooting only with the barbless shaft, and this way it was very accurate. So I guess I just have to get a decent tip. Thanx for the help anyway.
 
Usually this can be fixed. Some floppers are designed with the end of it sticking out, to engage more easily once the fish is speared. If this is the case for yours, hammer the end so the whole flopper is flat.
Since you have a screw-on tip you can also replace it with a symetric double-flopper tip. With a symetric tip it won't steer the shaft one way more than the other.
 
well, all off the screw-on tips which are available here have sticking-out end... well if it really causes such extreme inaccuracy, I don't understand why every single model is designed this way... but I'll try hammering one of them, thanks for the advice.
 
you were right, I hammered it, now it's accurate I just can't understand why they are not flat by default.. don't they ever try it before starting to sell it??

by the way I don't know how it is with other guns but this seac seams to be extremely sensitive to sand.. yesterday I put it down on the beach while putting on my fins before going into the sea :duh , and a stronger wave covered the gun with some sand. At the end of my 3 hour hunting session, the whole trigger mechanism was completely stuck, and I can hear the sand scratching inside when trying to pull the trigger.. I'm taking it to get it serviced today
 
daiquiri said:
you were right, I hammered it, now it's accurate I just can't understand why they are not flat by default.. Some guns are more affected than others.
Click to expand...
Floppers are sticking out so it is harder for the fish to come off.
don't they ever try it before starting to sell it??
Click to expand...
Spearguns are competitively priced and if a manufacturer can save a few cents by changing something at the last minute or during production they will. Spears/floppers are generic and if they can be sourced cheaper after the gun is made, they will be swapped, but not tested again.
 
have anyone tried to take out the trigger mechanism? I couldn't figure out how to do it :duh
I took out all the metal pins around the handle, but only half of the trigger mechanism came out, I couldnt pull out the whole thing. :head I have problem with the line release, it only comes out about 2-3 mm from the barrel (actually it comes out about 5-6 mm but it goes right back halfway when I put on one wrap of line, leaving only anout 1 mm from the second wrap, and this gives me a freakin hard time because the line keeps coming off :waterwork )
I want to check out what's the problem but I just can't get the damn thing out of the handle
 
Seems a little unfair to review the accuracy of new speargun when you have modified it!

Sounds like the gun is not designed to take a 2nd wrap. May be better to just fit a muzzle bungee to avoid bounce back. [I saw a small "shark fin" (no moving parts), on a Hawaiian site I think, that fits under a muzzle for an extra half-wrap -- seems gimmicky to me though.]
 
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please could anyone tell me if the gun is the good buy?I will buy it before summer and I'm interested if the resolts of gun are good?
 

Did you get the trigger issue worked out?What did the shop owner tell you so you can fix it on your own?I was thinking of buying one but I couldn't send it back if I had problems with it,atleast cheaply.
 
Reactions: spaghetti
well the guy cleaned the mechanism for free. I have no idea how he took it out though, but maybe it's just that I'm too lame
on the 2006 version they fixed the line release too, now it's longer and has a different angle so now it can esily accomodate two wraps.
and I also heard that within a few months they will get a new muzzle that will be able to accommodate 2 rubber bands.
 
Received a reply from A.R. Nahum at Seac-sub (seacmark@tin.it), that the US distributor for this gun is Scuba World in Hialeah, FL (info@scubasworld.com). Ph. 305-827-4929. Prices for the 95,105,and 115cm X-fire are 225, 240, and 255 dollars.
 
Kifla, you can pretty much find the answer if you read through the thread.
 
Reactions: Mr. X
Dobs said:
Kifla, you can pretty much find the answer if you read through the thread.
Click to expand...

thanks Dobs but I'm not good with english and I don't understand lot of that..if it's not hard from 1 to 10..what is your opinion? :head
 
Hi Kifla,
I have never tested the gun in water, but I held it in my hands in a local dive shop. It looks beautiful and the handle is very comfortable. The integrated shaftguide and the circular band are both very good things about any gun. The band is 16mm and would work good with thin shafts (6mm). That's about all I can say without firing the gun. It should be acurate and easy to move in the water. Someone who has used the gun can give you a 1 to 10
Cheers!
 
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