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Simple little roller gun

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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Tin Man

Well-Known Member
Jun 27, 2006
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This is my second try at a roller gun, this time incorporating some of the things I learned with this one: http://forums.deeperblue.com/diy-homemade/91556-first-try-roller-gun-modified-mako.html

That gun had excellent power and accuracy, but the muzzle was heavy and it was a pain to re-load the shaft because of the way the arresting pins pulled the wishbone down tight against the top of the track.
I'm still using a Mako handle and barrel as a basis, but this time, I've tried to reduce everything to the minimum.

The muzzle itself is G10 for strength, with Delrin rollers on a stainless axle. Thin titanium strips run around the outside just to protect everything from rocks and wrecks. It's nice and light, but no bigger than it needs to be.

The main thing that I'm playing with here is the way the bands are stopped at the end of the shot. I tried it a bit on my first roller, and it seemed to have some promise. A second wishbone runs beneath the tube, and catches on the two short bushings at the rear of the muzzle, which keeps the bands from pulling around the rollers. This leaves the primary wishbone slack, so it's easy to re-insert the shaft into the track. I'm using an ETR barrel this time, so wrapping the shooting line is simple.

On the plus side, it's a simple muzzle configuration that's easily adaptable to a standard barrel and handle. On the downside, it doesn't have the two-stage cocking that you get when the bottom of the gun has multiple band attachment points. That sort of limits the preload that you want on the bands, or it's really tough to load the band.

Hopefully, I'll get a weather window over the next few days to try it out.

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Here are some pics showing the axle / roller arrangement. The main axle is 5/16" diameter, and tapped at each end for #10-32 thread. The wheel bushing is 3/8" OD, by 5/16" ID, and is just slightly longer than the thickness of the roller. This way, when I tighten everything down, the bushing acts as a spacer so the roller doesn't get pinched.

In the other pic, you can see a raised area at the center of each face on the roller. That was intended to work like a washer, but thinner, to keep the bulk of the roller from contacting anything.

The titanium strip is cheaply available from Ebay. Originally, I was going to form a single piece all the way around. But the stuff is really springy, and tough for me to bend accurately. Making two separate pieces (one for each side) was much easier.

I wasn't particularly careful to plan the bushings to be standard size lengths. But with a little forethought, they could probably all be found as "off the shelf" parts.

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I really like how sleek and simple that setup looks. Wondering if the second "stopper" wishbone will tear the ends of the band after a while, but nice idea, looking forward to read about your tests :)
 
. . . Wondering if the second "stopper" wishbone will tear the ends of the band after a while . . .

I had the same thought. I think I will shorten up the "stopper" wishbone just enough so that it doesn't get pulled onto the roller.
 
Keep it simple is good but, I still think it will sink the muzzle?
Have you seen the comersial versions available?

I love the roller concept, I just think the whole gun needs to be designed around the concept.
I have thought about containing the band inside the barrel but this would need some very delicate balancing & weight distribution.
 
I like my guns to be just a bit muzzle heavy, so slightly negative is fine with me as long as it's not excessive. I haven't weighed this muzzle, but it feels to be only slightly heavier than a stock Mako muzzle. I think it will be close enough that I can easily fine tune it by adjusting the shaft overhang.

I have seen a couple of the commercial versions, but all that I have seen capture the wishbone on top. Fine if you are using a notched shaft, but I haven't seen any that would easily accomdate the sharkfin shafts that I prefer.

I don't doubt that a purpose-built gun would be superior. But for now, I'm just testing a few concepts, and applying the 80-20 rule . . . Looking to achieve 80% of the benefit for 20% of the work.
 
If you can make it all come together & produce an accurate weapon that is not to muzzle heavy - then you have done a great job (how could I doubt you :))
I have only built a few rollers & found the guns a joy to fire but, I have not yet achieved a good looking balanced version...
 
I got some testing in today. I fired it about a dozen times, some just standing under the pier, and a few in a test tank where we could observe it a little better.

Without the shaft, it floated muzzle up at first. After a few minutes in the water, the muzzle was almost perfectly neutral if I supported the handle. I think maybe there was a bubble of air trapped between the end of my muzzle, and the barrel plug. When that bubble escaped, the balance changed just a little. Still, it is what I consider to be perfectly balanced with the shaft shown. That is to say, just slightly muzzle heavy, but not so much that you really notice it while aiming.

In the dozen or so shots that I fired, the arresting system worked perfectly every time. The bottom wishbone never snagged the shooting line, and the shooting line never tangled. I'll need to shoot a lot more to see if the bottom wishbone will wear prematurely, but so far so good.

I may fit it with a different handle that is more comfortable for me, but after today's positive testing, I am really looking forward to hunting with it.
 
Not to bring this thread completely back from the dead, but...

Any updates on the "Simple Roller"? I just built my first roller gun and love the concept and idea and would love to adapt something to my Mako Oceanic.
 
I tweaked it a bit and now use a 2-step loading that allows me to use a 3/4" band at 4:1 stretch. Closed seasons here means that it will be a while before I can hunt with it, but tests in the tank are very encouraging.
 
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