speargun parts/components

[migolito]

Top of the morning!
I'm planning out a speargun that I'll be making. Mid-handle, 55" teak, enclosed track. I'm considering mechanisms and handles from Wong, Riffe and Kitto. Does anyone have experience with these? Also, the shaft will be 5/16. Where can I find a 5/16 track cutter(router bit).
Also, opinions on the muzzle; opinions on Kitto or traditional?


M

 

[Bill McIntyre]

I can respond to the mechanism part of the question. I've used mechanisms from Wong (Aimrite), Riffe, and Alexander, and they all worked fine. I couldn't tell the difference. I haven't used the Kitto.

The Aimrite is warranted for life if that matters to you. I ran over my gun and put the bands though the props, ripping the shaft out of the Aimrite mechanism and destroying it. It was still covered, even against senior moments, and I got a free replacement. Don't bother to try that with the other brands.

 

[griswold]

You can get a ball 3/8" cutter, which works for a 5/16" shaft, at leevalley.com for cheap. I'm not sure if wong/aimrite are selling their trigger mechs seperately, but you can get a kit from them if you need all the parts.

Alexander will sell you individual parts if you decide to go that way. I believe his trigger mech is warranted (not sure if that includes boat props).

My first gun, which I recently finished, was a 54" enclosed track, laminated teak, mid-handle gun made to shoot a 5/16" shaft. If you would like to see photos it is posted on spearboard.com under the guns section. The thread is titled "finally finished first gun". If I can help in any way let me know.

 

[Bill McIntyre]

As an afterthought, I did think of one difference that might interest you. With the Aimrite, Alexander, and Riffe mechanisms, the line release must be in the aft position when you insert the shaft into the mechanism in order for it to catch. But a few years ago, Riffe started putting a return spring on his line releases so that its always in position. With the other two, now and then it might be in the forward position when you insert the shaft, and then you have to reach down and flip it aft and insert it again.

Its no big deal, but the return spring seems like a nice touch.

 

[griswold]

I must have old riffe mechanisms, because they don't have springs. Also, if you plan to use a riffe mechansim for an enclosed track gun, be prepared to custom flare the slot to fit the odd shaped mechanism. I did it, but if I were in the market for a mechanism for an enclosed track gun, riffe wouldn't be my first choice.

As I noted above, I have completed all of 1 gun, so take my advice for what it's worth - probably about what you paid for it.

 

[Bill McIntyre]

I have made exactly zero guns, so I sure can't comment on what is required to get a certain brand to fit. My comments were strictly about my experience using the three mechanisms I mentioned.

 

[bluedog]

I only have experience with Riffe and Kitto Mechanisms. I have a gun made by Kitto with a Millenium2 and a Millenium3 that I am currently installing into a custom gun. Kitto's mechanisms are bomb-proof, built like a tank, he warrantees them for life. I like Alexanders and Aimrite's but just prefer Kitto's stuff, he's also a great info source when building your own. just my 2 cents.

 

[migolito]

Nice pics. I'm building a mid-handle so I will have a remote trigger with a rod connecting to the trigger mechanism. I am advised that the rod simply sits between the two. Apparently that works, but, seems kinda rickety. Is that how yours is set up?
Also, I like the muzzle-howz that working?

M

 

[bluedog]

I really like this muzzle design and it's easy to incorporate into a homemade gun. The muzzle also keeps the bands inline with the shaft. Here are some pics of the remote trigger set-up. The stainless rod basically continues to the rear of the gun to where the actual trigger mechanism is located.