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Sporasub One Air parts

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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grantl

Well-Known Member
Dec 5, 2005
701
319
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Can anyone tell me where is a good place to try and get a new fill valve for a One Air in Europe?
The valve was leaking from new and now after a few years is leaking again. I'm planning on seeing if I can replace the ball and O ring as it is badly corroded on the inside but Im aware that it's always been a bit temperamental and if I'm going to replace it with a new one now is the time while spares may be available.
Can't find any online and Sporasub weren't much help when it was new..........
 
You can buy the "O" ring spares kit here: https://www.edosub.it/ecommerce/ind...cturer=Omersub&category=Ricambi+f.+pneumatici
Omersub Airbalete O rings.jpg


Possibly the same ball and "O" ring is used that Mares use for their inlet valve. Sporasub and Omersub are the same gun. The tank "O" rings are probably different due to the different shapes in the three guns, Airbalete, One Air and Air XII.

They also sell the inlet valve body, either Omer or Sporasub.
 
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In fact I just bought some spares as sometimes parts inventory gets sold off or thrown out after all remaining guns are sold.
 
Can anyone tell me where is a good place to try and get a new fill valve for a One Air in Europe?
The valve was leaking from new and now after a few years is leaking again. I'm planning on seeing if I can replace the ball and O ring as it is badly corroded on the inside but Im aware that it's always been a bit temperamental and if I'm going to replace it with a new one now is the time while spares may be available.
Can't find any online and Sporasub weren't much help when it was new..........

Sorry to hear this. Try finding Edosub on Facebook and ask if he can get you the whole assembly. And if you are up for it, it would be good to have some pics of your issue and the severity of it once you get the valve taken apart.
 
A problem with this gun series is there is no plug/cap in the inlet valve to seal it as you have with most other pneumatic spearguns. Instead of a screw in protective cap they have a cylindrical boss or bung inside the removable handle which pokes into the rear inlet valve body opening when the handle is assembled on the gun. The idea is that this boss seals on the captive "O” ring in the valve body in the same way that the hand pump does when screwed in. However I bet it doesn't and during use saltwater gets in there and with the gun sitting on its muzzle the trapped saltwater has a nibble on the inlet valve ball. As it never dries out without the handle being removed corrosion takes place. Ironically if you leave the inlet valve cap off say a "Sten" the valve can get rinsed and dry off even though it floods on every dive. Basically protective caps and bungs only work if they seal and keep water out, otherwise they keep water in.
 
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Actually one way to check would be to put some white grease on the boss and push the handle into position and then pull it off to see if the "O"' ring wiped the grease off.
 
Just ordered a few parts including a piston and an "O" ring kit. The shipping was 39 euro which is steep considering the parts order was 66.20 euro. This is about 180 bucks. The "One Air" cost me 274 bucks including 58 bucks for shipping (Scubastore). The parts are coming from Italy which has very expensive shipping to Oz. Could not find a supplier in Taiwan where they are made!
 
Here is the valve leaking


This is a pic of it from the side


Funnily enough my 70 one air appears to be in a pretty messy condition but is currently working fine


Thanks for the link to Edosub Pete - I'll get a couple of valves, pistons and seal kits ordered. I kind of neglected using the bigger one air last year as I started using a Vuoto which I really like for its power and accuracy but there is something really nice about shooting with the one air - It will be a shame if we get the point that parts aren't readily available.
 
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Well you can see the green of corrosion clearly enough. I am wondering if water can get in and stay there after a dive then this area may be better ventilated by drilling transverse holes in it. That way a gun dunked in a bucket of freshwater can easily exchange saltwater for fresh and then drain out and dry. I don't see a way to fully seal the area, hence deliberate flooding is the alternative. A cap could be put in there, but would need the boss inside the handle shortened that right now serves as a valve plug, but not a very effective one.

Removing the rear handle frequently for post dive cleaning may do in the tight fit on the big pin that has to be removed and replaced each time.
 
After studying the rear handle I think the best way to allow water in and out is to drill down either side of the boss inside the handle so the holes emerge in front of the trigger. That way the cup created inside the rear handle will drain if you place the gun muzzle up for a while before standing the gun on its nose. Small holes in the barrel cup section would allow it to drain, but water would still stay in the inlet valve opening and as you need to up end the gun to let the water out of there the drain holes are better placed in the handle section. You could drill below the boss, but the hole would pass through the location that the fixing pin is located and that would prevent the area draining. The holes only need to be small, so don't drill holes any larger than they need to be.
handle drain holes.jpg
 
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