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Super Pneumatic Speargun

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.

Gazz

Well-Known Member
Jun 22, 2005
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Hello All,

I am new to this forum, and have come to ask the expertise of the many spearfisher people on this web site. I am from Sydney Australia and Down Under most people use band guns like rob allen, and unfortunatly dont have much knowledge of pneumatic spearguns.

I am currently doing some big modifications to a Seac Sub Asso 90, I have pulled the gun apart(well almost), but unfortunalty I cannot get my hands on a full service manual for any pneumatic speargun, and I have a question. The gun is completely apart expect I cannot figure out how to remove the inner barrel from the handle, (I have removed the air valve, the trigger and pin, and the poweradjuster) But the barrel wont budge. Not haveing a manual is like being in the dark and I dont want to break anything while I am fumbling around.

I plan to photograph the gun fully apart and document a guide for service and the working principle for friends. The gun is getting a special sighting system, (underwater green laser inc) shaft holder and a special dry barrel chamber that i am working on. I will post all details when it is finished (shortly)

You help would be appreciated.
Gazz
 
I think Shanesac and Memo, both members on this forum, are your best bet for pneumatic info. They are from the dark side.......
 
I cant think a super asso other than Shane's right now.. With its current spec all i can think about that gun may be a dentex reel and a trigger mech that can hold upto 30 bar without compromising the sensitivity.
 
Thanks for your replys.

Memo - At the moment the gun is just standard, hut I have many extra fitting to put on, and when the gun is fixed I will show you guys.

Shaneshac - I have the parts list, and have gone throught it many times, It is no use. The only thing thing i can think of is there a trick to getting the pin that holds the trigger(firing mechanism) inside the barrel, out before removing the barrel? But i think this is unlikely.
At this stage I thought the barrel would just fall out of the handle. (although the trigger mech is still attached to the barrel, but i have removed the trigger and firing pin).
 
Hello Gaz,
I am not sure abou the following procedure but it was the case in my old gun. At the document that Shane attached, the part 21 (Charging valve Body) is actually a big screw holding the internals to the gun barrel, try using a thich plier or a flat block to unscrew it. It has to release the gun tube from handle.
 
Thanks Memo, I have allready removed the valve screw(all of part 21), this still doesnt seem to release it. Any other ideas?
 
ok here we go, try this... Take out 1-2-3-4-6 and empty the muzzle part. Then take out the line release with its pin (29-30) then the trigger from its pin (36-34) then safety (38). Then take the trigger pin 32.

After doing all of them, take out 21 and try moving the handle from the barrel, i think it has to move. Keep in mind that i've never opened an asso, all these knowledge are based on other guns.
 
Thanks memo, This has all been done.

Mabey I need to take out 36-37 (the click and click pin) before removing the barrel? but how do I do that? I think the click may be holding the barrel in. Most pneumatic guns are the same memo.
 
Success!!

I pinned the handle to the ground gripped the barrel and did a dead lift, and the barrel slowly gave way(needed some serious muscle).

Thanks for your assistance guys i will make a new post when this project has been completed.
 
On Mares and Scuba Pro pneumatics you need to unscrew the air fill valve; this valve holds the inner barrel to the handle assembly. The fill valve has a notch cut into it for a spanner wrench to remove it. I made my own spanner with scrap pieces of brass and aluminum.

When you reassemble your gun take care not to over tighten the muzzle because excessive torque will cause the inner barrel turn out of alignment with you trigger pin. If this happens the trigger pin will not be able to engage the sear and you will not be able to fire the shaft out of the gun. I like to depress the trigger when I tighten the muzzle back on; this helps to prevent the inner barrel from turning during reassembly. The muzzle just has to snugged on, not tight. If you notice a gap between the outer barrel and the handle or the muzzle assembly after you recharge you gun you did not tighten the muzzle enough. If this happens drain the air out of your gun and tighten the muzzle a little more.

Usually the only seals that need to be replaced on regular basis is the o-ring around the trigger pin that makes contact with the sear and the o-ring that goes around the plunger that holds the shaft in place when the gun is loaded. I have a number of pneumatic guns that are over twenty years old and the only seals have been changed are the trigger and plunger seals.

Don't forget to replace the oil you lost when you disassembled you gun. A couple tablespoons of pneumatic tool is all that you will need for most guns. Some guns like the Scuba Pro use a grease instead of oil but I prefer to use oil. If you can not find pneumatic tool oil you can use 10 weight non detergent motor oil.
 
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