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Wanted Suunto d3 watch wanted dead or alive
- Thread starterspear4food
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
, There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
whats the reward 
Apnes store in Hania Crete! they had 2 sitting in there display cabinet when i was there a week ago!
see if you can get in contact with them, not sure how much they were but they were new... series one model (orange face)
DD
Apnes store in Hania Crete! they had 2 sitting in there display cabinet when i was there a week ago!
see if you can get in contact with them, not sure how much they were but they were new... series one model (orange face)
DD
One of the battery locking lugs on the body has broken so won't be watertight until I replace the back of my D3. The bottom left button is also faulty!
I hope you find a old [Dead] D3 second hand body, you also may go with a [Dead] Mosquito since I believe it uses the same body.
As a final solution you can maybe construct with some plastic coins, file and super glue. I successfully constructed one new button with some crude tools in an hour or two.
If My D3 were dead you could have it for sure.
Love, Courage and Water,
Kars
As a final solution you can maybe construct with some plastic coins, file and super glue. I successfully constructed one new button with some crude tools in an hour or two.
If My D3 were dead you could have it for sure.
Love, Courage and Water,
Kars
From what I researched buttons breaking off from the D3's seems to be a common disease. My D3's SET button broke off recently.
@Kars,
could you explain more in detail how you wre able to replace the button of your D3?
cheers,
Gerald
Hi Gerald,
I had typed a long answer to your flattering pm, but then the computer shut off
So I'm now reassembling the courage to redo it now.
Ok, the simple solution is to superglue the button back together and then onto the pin it came off. My lower left button is fixed this way.
Now if your lost the button, you need to find or make yourself a replacement.
The way I made one was by sawing out two oval shaped disks from a 1mm thick plastic coin. 1 was carefully drilled and sawed and filed out to accommodate the rim the button socket in the housing has. Also I made sure the button fitted the socked very well. Then I glued the two ovals on top of each other, and filed the whole button a bot more round. after that I carefully centered and drilled a small and snug hole for the button pin to go through.
Final assembly is tricky, time and consideration.
I opened up the D3, and took a look inside. You'll see the button pin simply gets into the housing an presses a thin metal strip against a contact point on the main print plate. On the outside there are two tiny rubber o-rings (if I recall correctly), those keep the water out. Now because your new home made button may be thicker then an original you may need to fabric a shorter spring (I used a ballpoint pen spring ) to make it functional again. Anyway think it through. Observe the other button construction. Now putting the button on with a tiny bit of superglue, you want to block the button pin from going in, in order to slide the pin through your button so the head is level with the button surface. Take time cleaning and preparing the gluing area's, and take time to allow the glue to fully harden.
Maybe when I get home I may be able to find a photo of my poor mans experiments. Yes I simply cannot afford to by a new computer, so that's my creative motivation
I hope this description was of any use to you, and others.
I'm sure many could do a better job, but what the hack my D3 still works and wend to 66m with no problems.
I had typed a long answer to your flattering pm, but then the computer shut off
So I'm now reassembling the courage to redo it now.
Ok, the simple solution is to superglue the button back together and then onto the pin it came off. My lower left button is fixed this way.
Now if your lost the button, you need to find or make yourself a replacement.
The way I made one was by sawing out two oval shaped disks from a 1mm thick plastic coin. 1 was carefully drilled and sawed and filed out to accommodate the rim the button socket in the housing has. Also I made sure the button fitted the socked very well. Then I glued the two ovals on top of each other, and filed the whole button a bot more round. after that I carefully centered and drilled a small and snug hole for the button pin to go through.
Final assembly is tricky, time and consideration.
I opened up the D3, and took a look inside. You'll see the button pin simply gets into the housing an presses a thin metal strip against a contact point on the main print plate. On the outside there are two tiny rubber o-rings (if I recall correctly), those keep the water out
. Now because your new home made button may be thicker then an original you may need to fabric a shorter spring (I used a ballpoint pen spring ) to make it functional again. Anyway think it through. Observe the other button construction. Now putting the button on with a tiny bit of superglue, you want to block the button pin from going in, in order to slide the pin through your button so the head is level with the button surface. Take time cleaning and preparing the gluing area's, and take time to allow the glue to fully harden.Maybe when I get home I may be able to find a photo of my poor mans experiments. Yes I simply cannot afford to by a new computer, so that's my creative motivation
I hope this description was of any use to you, and others.
I'm sure many could do a better job, but what the hack my D3 still works and wend to 66m with no problems.
Hello Kars,
thanks for this extensive description!
My advantage is that I have an extra housing of a D3 that is NOT water tight, it drowned the first time I took it to the pool. Unfortunately it was a piece of crap from ebay, at the moment I am claiming a refund.
The good news: the housing still got all the 4 buttons on. I could use them one by one for replacement.
If you would be so kind, could you explain how you would take a good button from a bad D3 and stick it onto a good D3 ?
Many thanks
Gerald
thanks for this extensive description!
My advantage is that I have an extra housing of a D3 that is NOT water tight, it drowned the first time I took it to the pool. Unfortunately it was a piece of crap from ebay, at the moment I am claiming a refund.
The good news: the housing still got all the 4 buttons on. I could use them one by one for replacement.
If you would be so kind, could you explain how you would take a good button from a bad D3 and stick it onto a good D3 ?
Many thanks
Gerald
Last edited:
I'm sorry, I've not done that.
I would first go in the leaking D3 for observation, learning how it works.
Inside there is this a very small 'rivet' that holds the shaft (and the rest of the button) inside the unit. Make sure to limit the space around your working area and can catch the jumping off 'locking rivet', when you it slide of the button shaft.
When you've done that you can push the button and O-rings and spring out. If you salvage all the buttons you probably can sell the remaining ones with ease to other D3 owners.
It's a challenging endeavour using pincers et all, but very rewarding.
I would first go in the leaking D3 for observation, learning how it works.
Inside there is this a very small 'rivet' that holds the shaft (and the rest of the button) inside the unit. Make sure to limit the space around your working area and can catch the jumping off 'locking rivet', when you it slide of the button shaft.
When you've done that you can push the button and O-rings and spring out. If you salvage all the buttons you probably can sell the remaining ones with ease to other D3 owners.
It's a challenging endeavour using pincers et all, but very rewarding.
Dear Kars,
thanks again for your effort to help.
If I understood correctly, there is no way of getting around opening the good D3. Then I would have to obeserve the mechanics, preferrably with a maginifying glass and a pair of tweezers.
I am a little bit afraid to open the housing of my good D3 but I guess I have nothing to loose.
Thanks again and good diving
Gerald
thanks again for your effort to help.
If I understood correctly, there is no way of getting around opening the good D3. Then I would have to obeserve the mechanics, preferrably with a maginifying glass and a pair of tweezers
.I am a little bit afraid to open the housing of my good D3 but I guess I have nothing to loose.
Thanks again and good diving
Gerald
Yeah, start with bad, flooded D3
I had a few D3's open, and it goes easy. I even did not bother to re-lube the O-ring, and it still works up to 66m. Use the right lube if you got it. Just keep you working site clean. I trust you'll do ok, it's not rocket science.
I had a few D3's open, and it goes easy. I even did not bother to re-lube the O-ring, and it still works up to 66m. Use the right lube if you got it. Just keep you working site clean. I trust you'll do ok, it's not rocket science.