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Tomba - All in One barrel sealing

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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Diving Gecko said:
Looks good Tomi.
I have some titanium sliders come in in a month or two. Will weigh them and report back.
They are meant to work without a slide ring and even without a rubber bumper. Will be interesting to test them.
Click to expand...
I suppose you were talking about Pelengas titanium slider. I guess it might weight similar to my because it is longer. If I am right it is supposed to be used using hydro braking but in that case it must be matched to he shaft and the butt and very precisely.
 
Not Pelengas. It's from Dima in Cyprus.
And yes, he will make custom tail ends to match the sliders, too;-).
He makes very interesting stuff. E.g. the Salvimar Vuoto that I and a lot of others use and have recommended a lot and which is probably the biggest selling muzzle is, supposedly, a very direct copy of what he has been making for about 10-12 years. Not that he really cares much, he just likes to make stuff in titanium and see what works and what doesn't.
 
I hope so, it will go on the long Mirage.
Other than that, it will be nice bling, haha.

D.
 
New stainless steel sliders. These are 2,4 gr






Design idea of the slider having spectra on it is from my forum friend Mexanik (Aleksander). I was curious if I could make it. It is pretty demanding to make it and to attach spectra, but might be good in performance...
 
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Reactions: grantl and foxfish
Is this dyneema too thin to splice?

Good work on the slider, I like it
For a second, I thought it could be an issue that the spectra/dyneema or mono would be rubbing against the spear. But I don't think it will as during the part of shot, until the spear leaves the muzzle, the pull on the shooting line is not much and as such, the line touching the shaft probably doesn't have any real effect.
 

Thanks!
I have not try splicing yet. Here is a video about it:
Dyneema on my image is 1.6 mm. Maybe I will try splicing.
Yes, you are right about the second...
 
Try it. Obviously, it might be tricky at that size but I am fairly certain I have seen it done in model RC yachts. I tried and and apart from esthetics, I kinda succeeded on it myself.

The trick is getting 1.6 dyneema through itself as you will need a splicing neeedle with very, very thin walls.
As the line becomes thinner, the splicing needled becomes relatively bigger and with very thin lines like ours, it can come to the point where the line can't expand enough to let a big enough needle in. Or said another way - the biggest needle that can go through the core wont have an ID big enough to let the line go through it. Hope that made sense...

Try looking into using some very thin-walled SS tube. Or perhaps a hypodermic needle from a veterinary, like this:
 
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That is a good idea! This might be the right size (16G):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Veterinary-Syringe-Universal-Needles-4-cm-/140710142787
 
Could be, maybe you need even bigger. Not sure, but there sure be some data online about the ID/OD in mm of these needle gauges. Also, try to get the even longer ones.

Actually, I can get them in China easily so I can do a test drive for you before you start wasting money. I should have some app 1.6mm dyneema here, too.

[Edit] Found a gauge chart but sometimes they differ a bit. But if you trust this, then the smallest you can go (look at ID) is #14:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Needle_gauge_comparison_chart

But that size is still 2.1mm in OD, so it still might not work, it might be too much to ask for 1.6mm to open up to 2.1mm on the inside. I will try it. I think the last I tried was on 1.2mm and that didn't work out for me.
 
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Yes, #14 is the right size, regarding ID 1.6 mm!
 
This was my first time splicing dyneema. I soaked dyneema ends with cyanoacrylic glue end cut the ends. I could not finish splicing as on video above because my dyneema was very tight. I could not stretch it thought its center neither with needle to put in the loose end.
 
Looks like a, potentially, good idea. Of course, I'd be worried about the line jamming against the spear on the inside and slowing down the spear. But as we talked about, the pull on the line should not be too much in the initial phase of the shot.
But I am more worried about it being used for bigger fish given the low breaking strength of the thin line. But for sure, for a very fast shaft for smaller fast fish, it might be a great idea
 
There is no line jamming up to the 1 mm line thickness. The cable at the image is about 0.5 mm. But you are right this is not for big strong fishes.The former version is better for big fishes, that having an eye to tie maybe 2 mm line. But this last one is easier to make, if one is having a lathe to form the inside of the slider. 1 mm mono could be used instead of the steel cable so there would not be unnecessary knots and joints. That is for fast spear having longer range. Maybe, I will soon test it in water...
 
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Cyrano 850 on 25 bar, on 5.5 m distance, mono line 1 mm. Measuring the stretching of ruber tubing... Same as before I did. I took the Devoto slider with steel ring as reference - 100%.
 
Reactions: foxfish and Diving Gecko
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