Where can I get a mini anchor for a buoy?

[Jez]

I'm sure I saw a picture of a mini anchor in one of these forums that someone said they used with their buoy, or I might have seen it on a spearo online shop. Can anyone jog my memory for me? After my first dive on the reef at Budleigh with Pekka and the abscence of any marker bouys to hang onto I thought it would be a good idea to use my home made body board/buoy as a resting point at the head of the reef. I have a weight but I think with the strength of current there I'll need to dive down and jam an anchor in the rocks to have it hold fast.

Thanks for any pointers

Jez

 

[Spaniard]

I know Picasso used to sell one, not sure if anyone selling this gear in the UK though - ask Dave at Spearo.

 

[Alison]

Try this Jez http://www.marine-hardware.co.uk/acatalog/Sea_Screw_Catalogue_Grapnel_Anchors_198.html
but any chandler should sell them. Or how about one of those nets for washing tablets with a stone in it?

 

[grahamfoster]

I saw the same thing and I'm after one too. I'm pretty sure that it was Huan that posted it - maybe if we ask him very nicely he will post agian or remind us where the orginal post is? It looked like it was purpose made for spearing as the anchor barby bits looked like spear floppers and it was all nice stainless. Alison I checked out your link (you allways shame us for being crap at searching ourselves!) and the smallest one would prob do the trick but they are galved steel and maybe a bit cheap and nasty - no photos either.

 

[Spaniard]

This is the puppy....

http://www.picassoamerica.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=52&products_id=123

 

[Adrian]

Or you can use a large fishing lead weight. You don't need much to keep a float in place.

 

[grahamfoster]

Phew.... bit of a price tag on it! Alison - i take it back - cheapo galved anchor it is!

 

[Jez]

Thanks everyone, it's the Picasso doobery I was thinking of after all. At that price though, a rock and some rope sounds good! :duh

The dive at Budleigh seems to start by diving with the current first (would be better vice versa) and then swimming damn hard up it again to the head of the reef (or face an exit up a cliff that looks pretty mean). The idea is that the buoy should remain at the head of the reef and I'd hang onto it (in quite a strong current) and so be able to recover my breath for another pass. Diving after sprinting into the current for 15 minutes is not really working for me! There's usually crab pots there I'm told but I don't want any hassle from potters by possibly damaging their kit. Can't wait to go again though so while I come up with a cunning plan I'll just have to get fit.

 

[Murat]

If those picosso anchor stucks in rocks in deep you will have to dive to retrive them. I use 2* 150gr lead weight which guys use for line fishing, its great and does not cost more than 1.5 euro both . If you really interested i can get a picture of it

 

[Alison]

Alison I checked out your link (you allways shame us for being crap at searching ourselves!) and the smallest one would prob do the trick but they are galved steel and maybe a bit cheap and nasty - no photos either.

Ive had a few bits and bobs from these people recently and the quality has been as good as anwhere so I wouldnt worry but to be honest, even the £2.73 grinds with me rofl I would go with the bag and stone, you can dump the stone at the end of the dive to save carrying extra weight.

 

[Huan]

I think this is the anchor you were talking about.
The price for the Picasso america stuff is.....somewhat different.
I have this anchor and it is brilliant for two reasons.
It doesn't get in the way when you are travelling, for example if you are doing a lot of swimming carrying a grapple gets tiresome and how exactly do you carry it safely?
when you get back to your car it folds up and doesn't puncture your float.
I made a pouch out of doubled seatbelt material (I will try and post a pic later.)and the folded anchor fits neatly into this it will pull free if you need to drop it but not if you just duck dive.
I have also got a stainless grapple from a chandlers before quite cheap only 7 stg but it is a major pain in the arse to carry, I only use it for the Kayak now.

 

[Kev]

Have a look at the matix anchor on sale from scubland in France.

 

[Murat]

Alison, when you hunt in rocky areas nets and lines are vulnerables. The rocks will cut the net in no time. I did some line loops from 2mm kevlar to attach lead weights to my float, i occasionally droped them in rock areas and in 2nd dive day one of them had been cut away. There was fast current that day so i had to chase my under weighted float all day long. Now i am using different type of lead weight which does not need line loops so i can directly attach them to carbinger.

 

[Alison]

I dont do this, I always have my floatline hooked up to my gun. It was just an idea to get going with as the bags are free with washing tablets. If he likes the method buy anchor or weight if not theres nothing lost

 

[Murat]

Yeah i know what you mean.

But any (standart) line attached weight or mesh bag or smillar with let him down in the sea thats why i am warning him. That happened to me and its not fun to chase the float with swift current while spear is already stucked in the cave with fish on it. Not to mention the bad visibility rofl Its pretty easy to lost the gun or the float in such situation and all of you concentration goes away and heart beats like crazy. Thats means so easy diving for the rest of the day

 

[kumuhunta]

You should try and look at the anchor pics on Hawaiiskindiver.net These anchors are easy to make and work very well. I use one of these anchors and my float is always where I leave it. In fact many divers also use a bigger version for thier kayaks.

All you need is a 2 inch Diameter pipe about 4 inches long
3 Metal rods about a 1/4 inch diamter about 3 to 4 inches long.
Lead
One piece of stainless steel cable with crimps and heat shrink tubing.
The metal pieces would be better if it was Titanium. Mine is.

Drill a two holes through the pipe to make a cross section where the two metal rods will go through. Push rods through.
Bend last rod to make curve for the line to attache too. Melt lead to mold into pipe and push metal rod into lead.
You can put additional bend in the rod to provide better restitance.
use JB weld to top off the lead on the top of the pipe.
Crimp stainless steel line in place and your good to go.

The shrink tubing is just to make everything look nice and neat.
see pics on Hawaiiskindiver.net for a better understanding.

This anchor is great. You never really have to dive down to retrieve it. all you have to do is hold on to the anchor line and swim above it. then yank upward. The anchor gets its stickyness by laying on its side gripping the reef or digging into the sand