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Where to fix the line of a buoy?

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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davidpil

New Member
Apr 23, 2010
18
0
0
Hi
I am relative new in spearfishing. I allways hunted without a buoy but for my next holiday I want to buy one. Because I always hunt alone, I want to buy a bigger buoy so that I can hang on the buoy in the case of getting a cramp.
Now to my problem.
I am sure this is a very silly question, but I don´t know where I have to fix the line of the buoy. Do I have to fix it on my speargun?

greetings
dave
 
Welcome Dave,
If I get cramp, I just float in the water - the wetsuit gives quite a lot of extra buoyancy, even with a weight belt. I often get calf cramps and usually just ignore them but I've had thigh cramp only twice in my life - once while spearing. That's more debilitating but it eventually passes.

I attach my speargun to my float using a float-line, South African style. However, I believe that some attach the float to their weight belt using a float-line. As I swim alone, I think that is safer as I am less likely to be trapped underwater by my float line. Also, my speargun cost more than my weight belt. Others might argue that having a rope attached to the diver is safer when diving with others as they will be able to locate you, if trapped/unconscious, and possibly even haul you up (might require a boat & muscle) and allows you to recover your weight belt, which will encourage you to drop you weight belt if you sense danger.

To attach the float-line to a belt, I believe some use a purpose built metal D-ring threaded onto the belt. To attach to a speargun, I use a big Rob Allen Orcas clip with swivel. My RA railgun had one bolted into the handle when I purchased it (it was beautifully rigged too). For my Omer spearguns, I threaded perlon (kernmantel) climbing accessory cord through the loop at the bottom of the handle and through the swivel of the Orcas clip. I probably used a single fishermans knot to form the loop (climbers usually use the bulkier double fisherman's knot - but this is not a life-or-death situation). Similar clips are available from other suppliers, the RA clips like their spearguns are suitable for "big game" - a lighter weight clips from, say Omer/Beuchat/..., might suit a european gun better (I have heavy duty RA clips on my super-lightweight Omer carbon spearguns:D - not really necessary or desirable but just what I had at the time).

Re. big floats, you can get large inflatable spearing floats inexpensively from most of the major brands (most are virtually identical), I think they might be as much as 35l (for comparison my solid RA float is 11 litres, my Seacsub inflatable, probably around 16-18 litres). You'll likely need some lead weight to keep it the right way up in the water - a small dive weight or some old wheel balance weight perhaps.

A boogie board, inflatible boogie board style float, or mini-dinghy style float (as produced by Sevylor, BestHunter, etc.), or planche style (box) float might be worth considering, depending on your needs, preferences and budget.
 
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Another option is to attach your float to some kind of anchor and then hunt around it. Move it and repeat.

I think some of the Guernsey spearos use this technique (sometimes?). Quite straightforward and little chance of entanglement, although you might loose your speargun or weight-belt [see above]. I seem to recall somebody (Magpie/Portinfer?) suggesting one of those heavy curtain balance weights. Somebody else (Magpie/OMD?) used a heavy, wired, lead angling weight on one of their youtube spearing videos.

Unusual here, but Rob Allen sell a kelp hook/clip which can be used to anchor to seaweed stalks - which can be quite strong. (Have heard it suggested that they may be worth keeping on your float line for emergency use in strong currents).

Several companies sell small, collapsible stainless steel anchors that might also work. I have even seen (I think a French spearfishing eqiipment on-line store) a small, cast folding anchor sold as a package with a spearing float, float-line, etc. - the smallest size version of those sold for small boats, kayaks and jet-skis.
 
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I think that looks like a nice float, esp. at the price. Some are considerably bigger. I'm assuming you have big fins? If so, shouldn't be a problem.

Being scared is good* - hopefully it'll make you cautious. Just be careful with the float line and after a while you barely notice it. You could probably combine the anchor technique with the speargun attached to the float-line technique - detaching the speargun as needs dictate. I just keep the gun attached though - simple.

*I bought a chainsaw this year to cut down some old trees. Scares the heck out of me but I figure that will help keep me cautious. Although early ladder work was required and specifically not recommended.
 
Ok so I buy it :D.

Can I ask an other question or do I have to make a new thread?
I just want to know if it is better to wear a 7mm diving suit or a 5mm in a water that has 24 °C (75 °F). And if there is a diffence between normal diving suits and freediving suits.

mfg
david
 
Might be worth starting another thread. But those are very high water temperatures - where abouts are we talking about? Those would be typical hot summer day air temperatures in the UK. With a 5mm or 7mm wetsuit, I suspect you would get heat stroke!

Typically folk use 5mm wetsuits in the UK, and I have used mine year round - except Feb. and March (no fish and weather foul). A few people - often people coming from warmer climates and/or with low body fat and/or slow metabolism (i.e. people who feel the cold more than usual) - sometimes go for 6 or 7mm, but I think that is the exception, not the norm.

For warmer climates, folk sometimes use 3mm spearo wetsuits. For even warming climate I've seen pictures of folk using just jackets, 2mm vests or even just "rash"-vests. I've used a 2mm shortie surfing wetsuit in the UK but was quite chilled after 1.5 hours of spearing - not recommended.

I think some of the Canadian spearos and freedivers use 7mm suits - it gets cold up there.

It's worth getting the right thickness wetsuit.
If you get one that is too thin you risk getting cold (although spearo wetsuits which are typically close fitting and come with a hood are remarkably warm - much more so than, say, a cheap surfing wetsuit). If you get one that is too thick you may overheat - when my suit was new I got very hot when I first wore it, and that was in November but looses a little "loft" with use (probably compresses a little?). Also, thicker suits will require you to carry significantly more lead on your weight-belt - which is a drag:D. If you order a suit from Eliossub, for example, they can advise based on your needs - which I found helpful & reassuring.

Your choice of gloves & socks can help fine tune your temperature. I don't wear socks in the hottest part of the Summer. I have 2mm gloves for most of the year but will use my old 3mm gloves when it is cold.
 
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Re. spearo/freediving wetsuits vs. SCUBA. I don't know if SCUBA divers still use wet suits these days(?). I think they normally use dry suits - either baggy overall type ones that can be worn over street clothes or tighter fitting ones that look more like wetsuits. Spearo wetsuits are great IMHO. If you are buying a wet suit for spear fishing then get a proper spearo wetsuit, you won't regret it it is probably the most important part of your equipment. They need not be expensive, there are often great bargains to be had if you shop around.

If you are you are not an "off the peg"-shape/size, then get a custom made wetsuit. It does not cost much more and the fit is great - which helps keep you happy & warm:). You don't need fancy neoprene, camoflage, pads or linings IMHO, except perhaps a loading pad [others have suggested knee pads - I haven't needed them - perhaps if you dive from boats?]. They can be nice extras if your budget permits but are not necessary. I decided to get a tailored made suit and, after discussing my needs with Elios, opted for their least expensive neoprene -- it has served me very well for maybe 4 or 5 years (I wash and dry it after each use); in hindsight I am still happy with the choices I made. It has a nylon outer which is strong and protective. Open-cell inner, which is cheap, warm and practically sticks to your skin. Because I don't dive really deep (no more than 30ft and usually only half that, and most of the time is spent at or near the surface), nor for real long (as some SCUBA divers do), so I don't need expensive special rigid or gas filled neoprene.

It's black, which is "the new-camo":D and cheap. Black is pretty good for hiding out on the sea bed; it absorbs light. If you get a black mask, fins and snorkel it'll all have similar properties. In open water you'll probably present a seal-like silhouette but that's probably unavoidable. Next time, I might go for camo, or partial camo (to break up my profile, some spearos use unmatched top & pants for this reason) or "macro" camo (with one or two large patches contrasting colour/shade of like the SA preditor wetsuits) - I haven't decided yet.

There are two main types of spearo suit design, the simple and inexpensive traditional spearo which has a high waisted pant and long-john, where the pant goes up the body and fastens over the shoulder (a bit like a sleeveless triathlon wetsuit). The hooded jackets are the same. I went for the standard high waisted spearo suit, that's what the Italians seem to use. I'm very happy with it. It's simple and inexpensive. The only drawback I can think of is that the most insulated/warmest part of your body is your um...crotch (as the jacket's flap passes between the legs), which for men should ideally be the coolest part. Long-john wetsuit need to fit more accurately, as the pant must also fit the torso, and the jacket must fit over the top of that. For a given thickness they will be warmer because your torso will be covered by trousers & jacket (e.g. 5mm + 5mm!). I think that might get too warm but alternatively might allow a 3mm long john to be used instead of a 5mm high-waist spearo suit (or 5mm instead of 7mm)? A long-john might also be handy if you wish to dive from a kayak - just remove your jacket to paddle. If you opt for the traditional spearo suit, most companies offer a 2mm neoprene vest which can be worn under the wetsuit for extra warmth - which would be like using a long-john, without the fitting complication; in practice you'll probably never need it but its nice to know that there is an inexpensive* option if you find you need extra warmth/coverage in the future.

*Although this should be a simple, inexpensive option, the vests are often surprisingly expensive. I think the wetsuit companies are making a mistake overcharging for vests because customers might order one "just in case" if they were inexpensive. But as I said, not really necessary.
 
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