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Wood vs. Aluminum
- Thread starterEric S
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
, There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
Welcome to DB Eric,
I've used an aluminum (JBL) gun for 3 years, and now I have a mini midhandle teak gun being made for me.
Note - I've never owned a euro-style gun (aluminum/titanium/carbon). Many of the Aus, European, and SA fellas will undoubtedly have a whole different 'angle' on your question :hmm
.
Here are main the reasons I am going for the wood.
1. It is a grade-A pain in the a$$ when I'm wrestling with a speared fish on the surface and the gun (which I'm no longer holding, since the fish is in one hand and my icepick is in the other) has sunk, and is either tugging on the spear or it's getting tangled up in weeds.
2. By having a pos buoyant wood gun, usually when you load the spear, the gun becomes just barely neg buoyant. This saves on wrist/hand fatigue big time because you don't have to fight to keep the muzzle of your gun from sinking.
3. The mid-handle design, and light-weight stock will allow me to swing that gun much faster.
4. Wood is much more stylish.
Remember, you if want a MT to be pos buoyant you could always add the teak floater wing kit. I emailed Jay with some questions regarding the wings, and he assured me that the new design (larger wings than the previous model) are large enough to make a standard (no aluminum muzzle) MT0 or MT1 float. They may also be enough to make other models float, but the only two I was asking about were the 0 and 1. The floater wing kit will add 120 bucks to the cost of the gun. The teak, midhandle counterpart to the MT#1 is the "Bot" midhandle model.
You also might want to run a 'search' (top of the page) for older threads. Just watch out for Iya's posts!!!
Ted
I've used an aluminum (JBL) gun for 3 years, and now I have a mini midhandle teak gun being made for me.
Note - I've never owned a euro-style gun (aluminum/titanium/carbon). Many of the Aus, European, and SA fellas will undoubtedly have a whole different 'angle' on your question :hmm
.Here are main the reasons I am going for the wood.
1. It is a grade-A pain in the a$$ when I'm wrestling with a speared fish on the surface and the gun (which I'm no longer holding, since the fish is in one hand and my icepick is in the other) has sunk, and is either tugging on the spear or it's getting tangled up in weeds.
2. By having a pos buoyant wood gun, usually when you load the spear, the gun becomes just barely neg buoyant. This saves on wrist/hand fatigue big time because you don't have to fight to keep the muzzle of your gun from sinking.
3. The mid-handle design, and light-weight stock will allow me to swing that gun much faster.
4. Wood is much more stylish
.Remember, you if want a MT to be pos buoyant you could always add the teak floater wing kit. I emailed Jay with some questions regarding the wings, and he assured me that the new design (larger wings than the previous model) are large enough to make a standard (no aluminum muzzle) MT0 or MT1 float. They may also be enough to make other models float, but the only two I was asking about were the 0 and 1. The floater wing kit will add 120 bucks to the cost of the gun. The teak, midhandle counterpart to the MT#1 is the "Bot" midhandle model.
You also might want to run a 'search' (top of the page) for older threads. Just watch out for Iya's posts!!!
Ted
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Thanks Ted. By the time you pay for adding the wood to a Metal Tech, seems like you might as well get the all wood model. Is the positive bouyancy really that much of a benefit ? Are there any advantages of the metal version over wood like less drag ?????
That's the way I see it Eric.
My experience:
The pos buoyancy is that much of a benefit. My dive bud, Jon, has a teak gun that he won and it is a dream to load compared to my aluminum (albeit, it is waaay too big for our water
). If you want to be happy with a sinker, never use a floater.What I've read on DB:
The wood will be easier to swing than the aluminum with or without the teak wings. However, if you plan to power the hell out of your gun like Iya does, you might want to consider a MT with the wings. This is because the gun will have more mass than a wood gun, and will be able to absorb more recoil. MT's can also handle four 9/16" bands standard.
As for me, I'll be using my little teak gun with three 9/16 bands and a Hawaiian spear, so big power and recoil are not an issue.
Ted
Doesn't everyone need a 6' gun to spear pan fish in 3' vis??:duh
The fact that the wood floats makes a big difference to me. I love it, but I've only been spearing for about 6 months.
I one day hope to be able to find a lake clear enough for my gun.
Jon
The fact that the wood floats makes a big difference to me. I love it, but I've only been spearing for about 6 months.
I one day hope to be able to find a lake clear enough for my gun.
Jon
Time to defend the humble Aluminum..
I own two RobAllens, both are very much positively boyant when the shaft is out of the gun. Seems like the US guns are designed for Scuba where neg boyancy is required.
Simple choice: RA vs Riffe, similar ranges (unless we are talking the Bluewater Riffe models) only the Riffe's cost more than twice as much, at least here in Oz.
I own two RobAllens, both are very much positively boyant when the shaft is out of the gun. Seems like the US guns are designed for Scuba where neg boyancy is required.
Simple choice: RA vs Riffe, similar ranges (unless we are talking the Bluewater Riffe models) only the Riffe's cost more than twice as much, at least here in Oz.
RA
Ya know Shadow... One of these days when my curiosity gets the best of me and I have 200 bucks burning a hole in my pocket, I'll have to get one of the RA's and take it for a spin. I never knew they were pos buoyant. They sealed with plugs and o-rings at both ends?
Jon - Not a word :naughty.
Ya know Shadow... One of these days when my curiosity gets the best of me and I have 200 bucks burning a hole in my pocket, I'll have to get one of the RA's and take it for a spin. I never knew they were pos buoyant. They sealed with plugs and o-rings at both ends?
Jon - Not a word :naughty.
hi
Hey Ra are the way to go they surely float with the spear out even my 1.5 does but with a spear you wouldnt want in to be to bouyant I like to have the muzzle end a bit heavier so when your stalking a fish the front end drops perfectly down on the fish without me moving. Most fish for me are shot from above and slightly behind so this front heavy technique works good for me. But yeah on the surface it can be a birt of a pain to keep the muzzle end up ready for a pelagic at any moment.
cheers
Hey Ra are the way to go they surely float with the spear out even my 1.5 does but with a spear you wouldnt want in to be to bouyant I like to have the muzzle end a bit heavier so when your stalking a fish the front end drops perfectly down on the fish without me moving. Most fish for me are shot from above and slightly behind so this front heavy technique works good for me. But yeah on the surface it can be a birt of a pain to keep the muzzle end up ready for a pelagic at any moment.
cheers
Murat,
I'm having the gun made for me (still in production). All hardware will be Riffe parts. [As you probably know] The smallest mid-handle teak gun Riffe makes is 37/38 inches (BOT model). Mine will be similar dimensions to the Metal Tech #0.
...and Griff,
For the love of pete - it is a warm-water discharge pipe. Jon and I do not swim in poop :t .
Ted
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You can go to the bank with this one- for a first timer gun or one that's gonna get beat on, take a JBL, remove the handlle, butt pad and clamp the thing pointing down. Pour some 8 pound density foam into it, let it erupt and set, reassemble the gun. You got a real good beater that floats. End of story.
I'm a big fan of aluminum for being able to take a smacking and the occasional pry bar thing :mute and with a rinse and a smile it'll last you till a son shows up.
Wood is certainly the smooth and stylish way to go to get a gun that has nuetral or slightly positive bouyancy, but you don't see me beating on it... The long range shots and the quiet of it's operation dictate some care in choosing the area and prey. That said, a long range gun out of wood, or a sultanny titanium/wood hybrid :inlove and a smaller aluminum gun for the day to day stuff will keep the fridge full for you.
sven
I'm a big fan of aluminum for being able to take a smacking and the occasional pry bar thing :mute and with a rinse and a smile it'll last you till a son shows up.
Wood is certainly the smooth and stylish way to go to get a gun that has nuetral or slightly positive bouyancy, but you don't see me beating on it... The long range shots and the quiet of it's operation dictate some care in choosing the area and prey. That said, a long range gun out of wood, or a sultanny titanium/wood hybrid :inlove and a smaller aluminum gun for the day to day stuff will keep the fridge full for you.
sven
I don't know about where in Berkeley per se, but go to the phone book and look up Tap Plastics.
sven
sven
that's what the karma button's for
ain't no thang.
I say TAP, rather than Home depot or wherever as their foam is polystyrene based and dries hard in the barrel. Be real sure you have your stuff together and pour small amounts as this stuff will stick to and bugger up anything even remotely close by.
sven
ain't no thang.
I say TAP, rather than Home depot or wherever as their foam is polystyrene based and dries hard in the barrel. Be real sure you have your stuff together and pour small amounts as this stuff will stick to and bugger up anything even remotely close by.
sven