World record freediver attempts Mount Everest without oxygen.

Well done. What's next? Interested to see how you feel getting back to sea level.
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cebaztian said:

Annelies summit was OK. She used O2 from about 7500m.
I stopped at 7000.
Hard work.
Lost 5 kilos.
Stayed at 6500 for 10 days.
Heartrate 85, saturation 65% 24/7
Went from 140 to 165 in "bloodvalues"

Sebastian

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Hi, thanks for the info!

So I take it she DID use O2 in her climb of the Mt Everest?

What do the bloodvalues mean? are higher values better? Are these your values or Annalie's?

Also I wonder how much the gear weights one carries up? The bodyweight/ gearweight ratio?

Haemoglobin

Sebastien,

I am surprised your hemoglobin only rose to 16.5g/dl. If I were you I would suspect a deficiency of iron, B12, folic acid, B6 or some other related nutrient.

What brand of oximeter were you using? With many oximeters being extremely inaccurate below 70%, the brand might have a huge impact on the reading.

Congrats on reaching 7000m.

Great stuff Cebaztian!

Awesome! Though you could just have taken a chopper and called it "no limits climbing". Or a helium balloon, then parachuted back and called it "variable weight".

I have been doing some research on the combination of respiratory muscle training and breathing techniques for improving altitude tolerance and performance that I thought would be relevant if another attempt is in order. I designed a workout for this about 6 months ago and have been refining it along the way. There is a three fold scientific rationale. First, strengthening breathing muscles enables you to generate more pressure in your lungs per breath as well as accelerate the rate of breathing. This can attenuate some of the drop at SP02 at a given altitude. In fact,respiratory muscle training combined with aerobic training has been shown to increase Sp02 during hypoxic exercise by 5%--a very sizable increase. Since doing this workout I have increased my mean Sp02 during 3 mile runs at roughly 8,000 ft by nearly 7%. Attaining increased respiratory pressure and rate also helps reduce HAPE by accelerating lymphatic clearance from lung tissue. In regards to breathing techniques, I have been practicing pranayama and experimenting with different breathing ratios during different exercise intensities. For hiking I like 1:1 deep diaphragmatic breathing cadence. In the morning of a high altitude trek when altitude sickness is the worst I will generally do pranayama, some short duration hold lung packs, and vigorous breathing. Here is a rough breakdown of the respiratory muscle training workout. I use a breath training device. It is far superior to "elevation masks," which do not provide significant resistance. These exercises are far more effective at strengthening respiratory muscles than diaphragm contractions, bellows breathing, victorious breathing etc.

3 sets 12 moderate resistance 5 second inhale exhale
5 set high resistance maximal expiratory effort
5 set high resistance maximal inspiratory effort
4 set 2-5 low resistance hyperventilation

I know this workout works for altitude. Let me know if you have any questions

Hard not to use oxygen with such a queue up there