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80 cm gun - any recommendations ?

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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Master Pars Speargun

As you know i have two of these. One is 110 and new one is 80.

The body is based on old OMER Black Master with lots of change and improvements. The body is designed by my diving buddy and local OMER dealer, Memduh Pars. After designing the body, it had been made in italy. I had been told its teak. Its three piece lamination. They are limited quantities and price is little expensive side. The handle is latest T20, ones without problems. Muzzle is excalibur 2000 modifed by me. Now the aim is much better and accuracy is also improved. Has alumunium 30 reel on it with thin kevlar. Shaft is indestructable 6.5m cressi but will change it with 6.25 soon. They are much faster and acurate than 6.5mm. Its accurate and nice setup to have with easiness to change the cheap screw in omer bands and any other spares...

I already speared some nice fish with it yesterday and get very nice BBQ party with diving friends. My diving buddy Memduh Pars also speared huge triggerfish about 4kgs!!!!! with his own design very first "Master Pars" 90cm speargun....
 
Hello Murat,
Very good looking gun indeed.How much did you pay for this nice toy?
And can you give a little bit info for the Master Pars 90??
 
Hello Aydın,

I paid 300 for that one. First of the Master Pars, Master Pars 90 of my diving buddy (creator) of the wood body has OMER Aluminium handle and trigger on it with 6.25 eurosub shaft. Unfortunatelly there were only 2 alluminium guns on northern part of the island. One was mine which i sold later to refund 110cm Master pars and other owned by my diving buddy Memduh Pars, he then used Alluminum handle and trigger to complete his gun. Belive me, Alluminium handle and triggger makes a lots of difference on accuracy and precision. I speared 2kg sargo with his gun. The shot had been made from 3-3.5 meter from the tip of the gun, on upside down position. Sargo was camofulated between sea weed and i had to made vertical shoot, the 6.25mm shaft just entered from right behind the eyes and exit from bottom, brain shoot and stoned... Mine also as accurate but not sensitive like Alluminium trigger hope to find one to replace.
 
Thanks for the detailed info Murat.110 cm is on the way,(Master Pars??,Master Cyprus?? )and will it be with double rubbers??sling??.
You began to open the muzzles,maybe some day you will use totaly open muzzle
Congrats for the shoot of the 2 kg. sargos,its very impressive..
 
Aydın i already have 110, i got it before 80cm. I even posted pics in forum somewhere... but can take pic side by side 80 and 110 later if you like.

110 is single band too.

By the way i saw HUGE dentex yesterday but had not chance to shoot the beast. I was getting out of the water and was almost at the shore about 7-8 meter deep. Decided to look for octo before heading out. I was checking caves from top and suddenly i rotate my head to look left, i saw it!!!! it was almost as big as my 80cm gun. It was only 6-7 meter away, was stationary and looking directly me. It was moving very very slowly up and down about 10-15cm then it turned broadside. I was freezed and thinking what to do, it was too close to make aspetto probably it will get away as soon as i become duck dive. Very shallow water too close to the fish...I also think i can not swim directly to it to force it to enter the cave since it was too big to enter any nearby caves. The bottom was flat, no place to hide behind. I decided to take a chance and made slow silent aspetto without kicking fins etc.. but when i raised my head at the bottom i realized it had gone :waterwork :waterwork
 
I will be glad Murat,if you can take a photo of these babies together.
Very sorry about the dentex,Murat.
4 days ago I have seen a3 kg dentex.
When I was focused at the deep,(17 mt aspetto)to the end of the aspetto a branch of sargos appeared from the left side. When I was deciding to which one of them will be cooked at my kitchen ,3 mt from my right side I had seen the 3 kg dentex which was going away. :waterwork
Ihave waitedfor a 30 sec. ,but she has dissappeared slowly.
After that I have made 5 aspettos around it but she did not come..
 
Aydın, I noticed dentex tend to come shallower water during winter/spring like all other fishes. Probably she was looking for octo as well...
 
Last edited:
Right I need to buy some wood now - I have a mate with all the tools but need some advice on wood.

1 - Teak or Oak or Douglas Fir ?

The local wood supply is pretty shoddy and unseasoned but you get no choice (island life...)

2 - what thickness of wood do I buy ?
I was thinking og getting three lengths and laminating them into one stock and then machining it (or maybe put a routered rail in it and then laminate it)

3 - what lenght would you buy for an 80cm ?
Curious to know how much wastage there is in the shaping process.
ie if I buy three lenghts of a metre I think that should give me enough leaway to make a few mistakes and so on.

Cheers
Ed
 
Ed , In a word, Teak.
Oak goes funny in seawater and no matter how well you finish it it will always get water in somewhere.
Douglas Fir is nice and straight grained but for my money you can't beat teak.
I have never seen many boats fitted with douglas fir or oak decks.
that for me says it all.
Huan
 
Hello Ed
If it were me I would go with the teak everytime if it were available, it has a natural oil content that will keep it in good nick,even after a good scraping on the rocks. Oak will/can go blue in sea water especially when in contact with metal, Douglas fir would be ok too but go teak if you get the chance.
Chances are that all these would be kiln dried before they got onto your sunny isle so dont worry unduly. For thickness you will need your final thickness / an odd number if your routing a rail (preferably) but if it were me, I would use 5 laminations for that bit more sability.
Length, I would buy somthing around 1200mm so you can lob off any gamy ends and to allow a bit more selectability of grain. In a general case,I would allow between 30% and 50% wastage for all machining/shaping operations (sawing, planning,routing etc)
If your using teak, use teak or tung oil as a finish, epoxy on the other two
Have fun with it and watch your fingers, mine still hurts 5 months on
 
Cheers guys
So for the wood do you just buy what you can and then cut the laminate strips and glue it back together ?

I guess I can buy it in 2 by 4 (inches) and then three of those togehter to give me (crunching the numbers...) 6 across and 4 deep.

With shaping and planing this should come down a bit !

Or is it better to ask the timber yard to get/cut 1 by 4's and laminate them up (maybe 5 strips)

I'll go and chat to them ...
 
Ed
This is a good site, aimed I think at bigger guns, however the basic principles apply to all woodies.
west system epoxy for gluing the laminate together.not too much pressure , squeezes all the epoxy out of the joint=starved joint.
reverse the laminates so as to minimise any warping that may occur.
 
Hello Ed (Colin again to idle to swap logins)
You'llprobably be able to buy stock in 1" x 6" or 2" x 6"
If your mate's got the gear then buy as is, you'll need a circular saw and planner for this, dont get anyone but you to glue up trust me (more in a sec) allow 3mm per saw cut wastage and then another 2mm wastage for planning for each laminate (overall not per side). For glue use West Systems epoxy (slow cure) and nothing else (trust me on this one) Try Axminster power tools or a chandelers for this; with this stuff its important to leave space for the glue to be effective, a real easyway to do this is, to use a coarse abraisive paper 60 - 80 grit in the centre of each glue surface and then clamp up as per normal.
 
Murat said:
thanks mate, any recent catch with your denton?


I am shooting some nice pieces but with some luck I will get my camera soon and start sending the videos aswell

also I am waiting 2 more guns by the end of this month.
 
Just trying to find the time to get the wood...
The timber yard is only open mon-fri so am getting a friend to buy the wood - bit hard as I am not sure what they sell...and I am not sure about his wood selection skills ! Either that or persuade the old man to use his out of parish weekly pass.

Anyway - cheapest decent triggers ? Any updates ?

Ideally I need a place that will sell me the tigger, the bands and the shaft and some dyneema or kevlar line (for convenience...)

I got a price list from Mikko (Spearpoint) so might do that - Ed
 
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