A different neckweight

[trux]

I just finished my new neck weight. I wanted one that is more hydrodynamic, without strangling me too much. My old neck weight was already done relatively low-profile / flat (using three parallel thin tubes) and hence with good hydrodynamics, but it tended to strangle me too much when I tighten it around my neck. I did not use any buckle, but a dry zip instead (for the best hydrodynamics).

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For some reason the neck weight did not keep the right ring form around my neck, but rather a U-form, which was not comfortable. Hence I told myself, I need to put something rigid inside to keep it in the right form. There is the result here (unfortunately I did not do any photos during the process):

Material used:

• - 2.5 kg of lead shot
• - 1 ordinary road bicycle tube
• - 1 large VTT tube (26x2.4/3.0)
• - 2 pieces of steel tinplate 1.5 mm x 55mm x 600 mm
• - Cyanoacrylate instant glue
• - El. tape

I've cut the small tube into three pieces roughly 40 cm long, filled them tightly with the 2.5 kg of lead shot, glued the ends, and glued the three tubes along each other. Then I took one of the tinplates, formed it into a circle, and U-bent the ends inside the circle backward. I inserted the lead filled tubes and taped them to the plate. I've then formed and inserted the inner tinplate (quite a bit shorter, and without the U-ends) and used tape again to fix it together. One after the other I now pulled two layers of the huge VTT tube over it, glued, and taped them. In fact I also wanted to let another smaller tube including the valve, between the two VTT tubes. I wanted to use it for fine-tuning the buoyancy - I could pump in little but air to increase the buoyancy. Unfortunately I did not manage to glue the cut piece efficiently enough to hold the pressure, and did not have anymore any other tube at home. I may add it later.

The main advantages of this neck weight are as follow:

1. Excellent hydrodynamic profile thanks to its flat low profile, and thanks to the form copying well and tightly the neck
2. No strain on the neck, no strangling, better blood flow into the brain
3. It does not limit the movement of your head as some other neck weights do - you can tuck you chin close to your chest.
4. Very easy and quick installation - you just put it on your neck (the gap needs to be sufficiently large to let your neck through)
5. Safe fit despite no buckle or any other fixation
6. Increased safety due to very fast and easy disposal - you can do it with one hand, without needing to open any buckle and losing so precious time.

The total weight is 3 kg

 

[azapa]

very cool trux, and 100% agree on the super-glue Cyanoacrylate /elec. tape construction. holds like a charm.

- do you have the open bit down? to tuck your chin in? something tells me it may roll, or roll you.

- mine became tighter, or maybe I started to streamline more. i would end up having a horrible constriction feeling in my throat that I put down to hypoxia but it was actually too tight, even though it felt really loose standing by the pool

nice work!

 

[trux]

- do you have the open bit down? to tuck your chin in? something tells me it may roll, or roll you.

Yes, opening is down, and it sits perfectly - I trained with it yesterday and it does not roll even if you move quite a bit to the side

mine became tighter, or maybe I started to streamline more. i would end up having a horrible constriction feeling in my throat that I put down to hypoxia but it was actually too tight, even though it felt really loose standing by the pool

Yes, that was exactly the problem with my old weight, which had no plate to keep it in the right form. With the weight and with the arms and shoulders pushing on it, it simply deformed and pressed to the sides of the neck, which was quite unpleasant, and I suspect it reduced the blood floow too. No such problem with this one - I was quite happy with it yesterday in the pool!

 

[trux]

BTW, you could do it also simpler with an old lead pipe (or two) - you could form it into the desired form with a hammer and envelope it with the rubber tube for protection. I just did not have any at home, so used the lead shot from my old neck weight, and the tinplates to hold it in the C form.

 

[foxfish]

Cool, I like it. I hope it last well & the glue holds up, please keep us in informed.

 

[Bill]

I've been using a cruder version for almost a year. Just one motorcycle tube filled with shot and light plastic forms to give it some streamlining. No lead on the top of the neck but it hangs a little lower for more drag. Still comfortable with 4,5 kilos.

 

[osusim]

Strange way of increasing hydrodynamic by increasing volume (and weight).
How many virtual meters did you got, trux? rofl

 

[trux]

Strange way of increasing hydrodynamic by increasing volume (and weight).

Not sure what you mean by increasing volume, because the volume of the weight is identical to an equivalent common round weight that hangs around your neck, has a lot of drag and pushes on your carotids. And as for increasing weight - I just added a 0.5 kg in comparison to my old weight, but that was to compensate for the wetsuit I use now. However, weight has absolutely no impact on hydrodynamics. It is only the form that has, and that's much more streamlined now. On the other hand, adding weight definitely helps (especially in DNF), because you gain momentum, and glide further at each push-off.

How many virtual meters did you got, trux? rofl

Plenty of virtual meters. As for the real ones, I did not try any PB yet, but with the new wetsuit and the new weight I did today in training 25 m lengths in DNF with 2 cycles (push-arms-legs-arms-legs), while before I needed 4-5. Well, I admit I am not really efficient, but the improvement was even more than I hoped for.

 

[trux]

- do you have the open bit down? to tuck your chin in? something tells me it may roll, or roll you.

I forgot to comment on the chin - yes it is in the opening. It in fact stabilizes the weight in the position, so it does not fall or roll even if you turn on your back. I tried it today. And the flat profile of the weight fills the space between the head and shoulders nicely, so that you have quite a better streamlined form.

 

[Macnaughty]

Congrats on a nice-looking bit of lead jewelry

I can't quite make out if you have it hanging over the back of your neck like a saddle, or twist it all the way round and "close" it by bending it to shape. I made someting similar I posted in the Christmas holidays (thread http://forums.deeperblue.com/freediving-equipment/81407-neckweight.html ) but cut out several plates from lead sheet and hammered them into shape. The saddle shaping I find works really well.

Cheers Martin

 

[Gwaihir]

looks great

 

[sgnips]

hello i just finished mine, 2kg, doesn't slip, perfect fitting on the neck

just have to make some maquillage to make it look cooler:



what do you think about it?

 

[trux]

I can't quite make out if you have it hanging over the back of your neck like a saddle, or twist it all the way round and "close" it by bending it to shape.

As I wrote above, the opening is front/down, and I put my chin into it, blocking so the weight against rolling, and keeping also a streamlined position. The weight is rather rigid, and I do not close it (just adjust the gap a little bit sometimes). No strap or buckle is needed to keep it in place, and that makes also its disposal very easy, safe, and rapid.

I though about closing it entirely, but finally found out that this shape is pretty good, and has many advantages - the mentioned safety, freedom of head/neck motion, easiness of putting it on and removing it, streamlining, reliability, and simplicity of manufacturing.

I made someting similar I posted in the Christmas holidays (thread http://forums.deeperblue.com/freediving-equipment/81407-neckweight.html ) but cut out several plates from lead sheet and hammered them into shape. The saddle shaping I find works really well.

Ah, I did not see that before. Looks great! Yes, you are right, doing it from a lead plate or a pipe is probably the best way to go. I just used lead shot in rubber tubes, and metallic plates because I did not have any lead plate/pipes at home.

 

[trux]

hello i just finished mine, 2kg, doesn't slip, perfect fitting on the neck

just have to make some maquillage to make it look cooler:

what do you think about it?

Yes, looks great! I'd just suggest pulling rubber or plastic coating over it - it is not quite healthy having the lead directly on the body.

 

[sgnips]

i thought the same, now i'm just looking for the right weight, then fix it

any idea on the material i can use to cover it? would like to make it like covered weights

 

[Dennis77]

Take a look at a do-it-yourself store. I hope it´s the correct word for it; you know the stores where you can buy tools, wood, paint, and all the stuff. Here in germany you can buy there a special rubber paint for the grips of tools. For example you put the stick of a hammer into the paint and remove it. Let the paint dry, and the stick of the hammer is covered by a rubber-type coating. After this the hammer won´t slip out of your hand.

Sorry for the bad explanation. I hope you know what I mean. Here´s a picture out of a german shop.

 

[sgnips]

looks like the thing i'm looking for... thanks

 

[trux]

If you do not find this one, they sell also materials called "liquid rubber" or similar for example for waterproof insulation of floors. Or you can have a look at a marine shop too - they may have materials that will be more resistant.

EDIT: Another option would be a thick PE bag, hot air, and a vacuum cleaner - you could "laminate" your weight into the bag in this way.

 

[sgnips]

hmmmm, hmmmm, this looks hot, too... i'll let you know

 

[azapa]

you could just try a roll or two of good quality electrical tape to start with. i use that on a "pendulum" i use for spearing and it sticks well to lead and doesn't wear out too fast