We keep drifting away from the original topic of this thread...
When we ignore any other factors and extrapolate it very conservatively
But I would say you can't do that. You can adapt to lower altitudes, and that's partially why you have the nice association between altitude and SaO2 that you presented in the graph you provided. But you cannot adapt to 8848 m. Therefore, you cannot extrapolate because there will be acute physiological responses (for instance vigurouos hyperventilation) that will "obscure" the extrapolation. And because we are at the step section of the Hb-O2 dissociation curve, this can lead to large changes in saturation (not only a beneficial increase because it will also be more difficult to unload O2 from the hemoglobin, as both you and I wrote before). Consequently, I do not think it is reasonable to use measurements from lower altitudes and extrapolate to 8848 m and say that the SaO2 "should be" 10-30%, because the acute exposure to this altitude changes physiological responses.
Now, on the other side we have:
- an unrelated study,
- with only one subject where we do not know the level of his altitude adaptation in comparison to subjects from the other study
- we do not know what was the atmospheric pressure in comparison to the other study, hence we do not know the inspired PaO2
- we do not know what the SaO2 was at 7300m in the second study. Or is that data available, and the SaO2 was identical (50%) too?
- the SaO2 was measured hours later (!!!) at lower altitude (!!!)
Partially right, but also some points I want to comment.
- Yes, it is an unrelated study.
- Agree on this too. I have not looked in the original publication for that.
- Actually, we know the inspired PO2. I gave these values in my previous post (7300 m: PiO2 52 mmHg; 8848 m: PiO2 43 mmHg).
- These values may be available. I have not looked in the original publication for that.
- The SaO2 was not measured hours later, it was the PaCO2.
Can such estimation really be taken seriously, and does it authorize us to draw the conclusion that the saturation was really 70%, hence not 20% above the estimation, but in fact 40%-60% above it?
As I wrote above, I don't think you can make the direct extrapolation that you were doing. A SaO2 of 10-30% would not be compatible with the physical activity needed to climb the peak. It is simply not possible. And the saturation, according to the source I read, was not estimated but measured at 8848 m. But again, I wouldn't say that I am convinced that the 70% SaO2-value at 8848 m is correct, and I will not try to explain it or defend it any further. I hope I have already explained it to the best of my knowledge above. I don't think I have anything else to add on that particular value.
Now, even if we ignore the strong effect of such extreme hyperventilation on the vasoconstriction of cerebral arteries, there is still the strong Bohr effect that renders the oxygen bound to hemoglobin quite difficult to unload, and hence to great extent unusable.The hypoxic tolerance would drop significantly.
I can imagine that with hyperventilation the organism could slow down or stop the decline of the SaO2, but wonder whether it could bring it up from 10%-30% to 70% without causing critical cerebral hypoxemia due to the strong Bohr effect (and perhaps also due to cerebral vasoconstriction.
Yes, in general I agree (except for some hesitation about the extrapolation of SaO2 to 10-30%
). And the reasons you give are some reasons why we can't go much higher. A peak of 10000 m (and thus lower PiO2) would not be climbed without supplementary oxygen. In fact, even the reduction of barometric pressure of only 10 mmHg, such as occurs between summer and winter on the Everest summit, reduces the oxygen uptake to such an extent that that the mountain cannot be climbed. This is presumably one reason why the mountain has not yet been climbed in midwinter without supplementary oxygen.
/Johan