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Carbon fiber hybrid

Thread Status: Hello , There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
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J

jtkwest

recreational user
Dec 2, 2007
808
144
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i am building this cf hybrid. it is 1/2 wood 1/2 cf tube. i got the tubes custom made from china. they cost 45$ each for 2 20$ to ship from china. took 1.5 weeks to arrive. i found the cf manufacturer on ebay. they were selling similar tubes very cheap. i email'd them to make me tubes at 36" long 30.5mm o.d 1" i.d. they are a hair smaller than my 1 1/4" ball bit. thet slide right in with no play at all. if anyone wants the email to the company - pm me. i will give it to you. so now i start this. here is pics of the first few steps i did today. i am using g10 epoxyglass for the track. it will be fully enclosed all the way to the muzzle. the real bitch so far was rounding the bottom of the epoxyglass to fit on the round cf barrel. dulled my 1 1/4" ball bit right out. i was able to do an ok job n both sticks, so its done now. WHAT A PAIN!!!! here's some pics of todays progress, tonight i will epoxy the tube into the wood stock, then tomorrow, epoxy the g10 to the tube and in place in the wood section all at once. this is easier than i thought. so far , the only hard thing was the g10.
 

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some more pics , follow along
 

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step by step
 

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lots of pics pics are good. pretty good progress for 1 day. i am going back to the shop in a minute to jig saw the wood section on the muzzle end. i am going to round it over now, so i wont have to do it later and mess up the cf tube by sanding up next to it. thats why i did the round over and band grooves already.
 

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Great job and info!!! Have some question since i want to make one with aluminum instead of CF:

1- Are you putting only epoxy between the tube and the wood ( I saw some designs where they are using pins to hold the tube, but i am not sure if they put epoxy)?
2- Is this CF tube good enough to hold the pressure applied?
3- What will be the length of the tube inside the wood?

Thanks for sharing your nice work
 

just epoxy on mine. you can pin it too, but i think epoxy is good enough. the cf tube is so stiff its ridiculous.!! its thicker than i needed for strength. i got it that thick so the inside diameter would match common muzzle sizes. i inserted the tube 9" into the wood. daryl wong does
8" i heard. seems like plenty to me. the tricky part for you if you do an aluminum one is to get the rail on the barrel to align EXACTLY with the enclosed track on the wood section. it needs to be exact. here is a pic of the rounded muzzle with the tube glued in place
 

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Crank the speed down as low as possible. The bits hold up well on my milling machine, but I am only turning about 1500 rpm, which is just a fraction of what a router usually turns.
 
Tin Man said:
Crank the speed down as low as possible. The bits hold up well on my milling machine, but I am only turning about 1500 rpm, which is just a fraction of what a router usually turns.
Click to expand...

ALL THE PASSES AT SLOW SPEED? or just the ball bit?
 
I know the tube usually stiff but i had doubt when you told me it is made in china, even though i know most of the companies they have branches in china for manufacturing but just was wondering... Again great work there all best...
 
ok next i sanded the g10 to round the corners and soften the edges a little then i glued it into place. now i just discovered that somehow my tube is offset to the wood section by about 3/32", causing a sort of hump in the track.SH***IT!!! well i did some creative sanding and i dont think anyone but me will know. i got about 3/4 of the problem fixed. i can proobably sand the rest out. this g10 is really hard. really hard. BTW: to backtrack a little, i shot a little construction foam in the cf tube about 6" in. this way the epoxy i will pour in , has something to stop against, on both ends. so now the trigger end is sealed with installation. this gun is very light so far. tomorrow i can cut trigger slot and do track cutting,pretty much cut all the router work tomorrow, i am using one of tin man's ar 15 handles on this one. it will be a mid handle, but with a short rod. 48" of track plus the muzzle so the spear will be 60"x 5/16" spear (8mm) i also left about 6" behind the trigger for lead
 

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Looking very nice! I like the contour at the front of the wood section.

jtkwest said:
. . . now i just discovered that somehow my tube is offset to the wood section by about 3/32", causing a sort of hump in the track.
Click to expand...

I'm not quite sure that I understood this part. Do you know where the problem lies? Was there too much clearance of the tube within the hole in the stock? Or was the hole in the stock not straight? Or . . . ?
 

I DONT KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THE DEAL IS. first i thought that my 1 1/4" hole was slightly offset to the wood section.,(in the vertical plane,(thank god!)) since then i have been thinking about it and i think i was mistaken. i think that when i glued the tube into the wood section, there was a tiny bit of play in the hole,(the tube should have been slightly larger in comparison to the hole. so when i epoxied it into place, i propped up the muzzle end of the gun, to keep the epoxy from spilling out. when i did it , the tube angled slightly down ,(the play) it sagged about 1/32", but when you extrapolate that along the length of the tube, and it equals about 1/8" by the end of the muzle. plus when i glued the tube into place, a little extra epoxy was on the top of the tube , on the area that was inserted in the wood section. not much was there , but 1/32" of build up, was enough to exxaserbate the situation. i sanded the g10 on the bottom on the section that goes into the wood, so it sat down a little, plus i sanded the top of the tube in the wood section to remove extra epoxy. now it seems like it is almost perfect. i figure i can sand the top of the g10 a little if i have to flatten it out any. the good news is: with the router jig i use, i work off a center line and not off the outside dimensions of the barrel. the good part of this is, the track will be laser straight, regardless of the outside inconsistencies of the g10. as long as its not outwardly visible to others , most of my mistakes have gone unnoticed as of this far. i think i will get away with this one. i am keeping this gun for myself anyway. i just wanted to show it off at the big tournament in 3 weeks. i am raffling a black reef gun for charity, and i want to show off the hybrid. btw: do you think if i mail this to you after this weekend ,(the finished gun) how long will it take to make a muzzle, and get it back to me?
 
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Good that you work it out after all. is it possible to make the hole for the tube in the wood using turning machine? which is better router or turning machine?
 
jtkwest said:
do you think if i mail this to you after this weekend ,(the finished gun) how long will it take to make a muzzle, and get it back to me?
Click to expand...

It will probably take me about a week, depending on whether I have a large enough chunk of Delrin on hand, or if I have to order some.
 
Salehthefish said:
Good that you work it out after all. is it possible to make the hole for the tube in the wood using turning machine? which is better router or turning machine?
Click to expand...

i only have experience with routers. its really about the jig and not the machine, for most applications. a router can do anything i think. a lathe (turning machine) is for making round stuff mostly. making spearguns probably doesnt require a lathe , but you would have to ask tin man about something like that. he has a mill machine that he uses to do magic.
 
A lathe would be a very good tool to use if you want a large central hole in an end grain situation.
 
There are advantages to both approaches.

A router has the advantage of being able to cut the hole as deep as you like, even all the way to the trigger mech if you want to. But you either have to do each side of the stock separately and then glue them together, or you have to have a slot in the top of the stock to reach through with a ball shaped cutter.

A lathe or horizontal mill will allow you to bore a very straight and accurate hole in a finished stock, with no slot in the top, but only as deep as the bit can reach.

Just for clarification, when a lathe is used to make a hole in a stock, it is sort of "backwards". Usually, a lathe spins the work piece and the cutter is stationary. When drilling deep holes, some people will spin the boring bit, and mount the wood stock to the carriage of the lathe.
 
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