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Gear list for the starting spearo
- Thread starterWaterhawk
- Start date
Thread Status: Hello
, There was no answer in this thread for more than 60 days.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
It's the Evolution. I had one minor problem with mine in the beginning - but it has been an awesome gun since. Super accurate. Shot some crappies the other day - all head shots and at full length of my line. (long shots). This is the 3rd year of killing with this gun and just yesterday one of my bands broke. Will have to order a new pair soon. Replace both.
I had a problem with the shaft locking in the mechanism. It appeared to me that the line attached to the spear was interfering with it locking in. So, I moved the spot where it attaches to the spear up the spear about 2 inches. HH had never heard of anyone else having that problem. I would get the Hammerhead muzzle on the gun if you can.
I'm thinking about going with the Aeris F-10 V2, where'd you pick yours up and how much did you pay (if you don't mind me asking)? It seems to be one of the top watches on the market from the reviews I've read.
I got a special deal on it through Pursuit Diving. But, I spent ALOT of money there, so I was treated well. I sent you a PM
75cm is IDEAL for Wisconsin Waters. It's even not too short for Lake Michigan. I believe HammerHead has a "HammerHead Muzzle" - it is supposedly just a little bit more accurate. I like the gun, because it has the power to go through the skull/body of any carp- yet the spear is narrow enough to not mess up the panfish- for eating.
Just my opinion/Review
Just make sure it's not ready to fire. Keep a tip protector on it. If you have a case, use it. But that is more to protect the speargun.
Would probably work good. Especially if you are in the South East Corner of Wisconsin- where the Lakes tend to be a bit clearer.
did you try with saliva?
i know...it is a little bit unpleasant [not for me], but you must do it well
before the dive, when the mask is DRY you put some saliva and rubb the lenses about 2 or 3 minutes [is very important for the mask not to be wet].
after that you clean the mask in the waters when you dive, BUT try not to tuch the lenses enymore!!!!
clean the mask agaitating in the waters with great force!!!
it should do!
i know...it is a little bit unpleasant [not for me], but you must do it well
before the dive, when the mask is DRY you put some saliva and rubb the lenses about 2 or 3 minutes [is very important for the mask not to be wet].
after that you clean the mask in the waters when you dive, BUT try not to tuch the lenses enymore!!!!
clean the mask agaitating in the waters with great force!!!
it should do!
What VALI is referring to is good before every dive. I think HONDA is referring to information he heard about when you buy a new mask - the PREP. I think, I've used toothpaste - whatever was in my bathroom. But only on some, the ones i didn't use toothpaste - I still am able to see fine out of.
The Spit technique Vali is referring to work well and is all you pretty much need to do.
The Spit technique Vali is referring to work well and is all you pretty much need to do.
My brother sent me my frameless mask from hawaii. I was having horrible fogging issues at carporama, called him on the way home.... he apologized for not telling me, but you can burn off the film. Take a bic lighter and heat up the inside of the glass, it will get a black soot to it, clean that off. Be careful not to get the lighter near the rubber.
***I did this to my mask, but do this at your OWN risk. I'm just giving info on what I did, don't want anyone to ruin their mask.***
***I did this to my mask, but do this at your OWN risk. I'm just giving info on what I did, don't want anyone to ruin their mask.***
Honda - my metal line tab has never been loose nor have I had any problems with the wish bones. It's a Great Gun - I like it.