Help bringing my Cyrano back

[Coral Sniper]

I am working on my old cyrano that has been setting home for too long. The reason I left it home was because I think I destroyed the gun by mistake:crutch! There was a gap forming between the handle and the barrel, I read somewhere that all I needed to do was tighten the muzzle.
So I did and the gap lessened but before it was back to ''normal'' it started slipping, like something let lose inside the barrel, like it was stripped?

Thats where I left it for whats seemed like a year or so. Now I have got the handle off and it looks like there is a ring of stripped aluminum around where the trigger release's the piston.

Maybe I should post a pic to help explain, It may be toast I am not sure.

 

[Coral Sniper]

duh:hungover This is the part that scares me

 

[devondave]

Tromic and Popgun Pete are our resident Cyrano experts, but here goes.
The only thread that could strip on the handle end is inside the inner barrel on the end.
To check it's OK put the valve back in the end and tighten it up, if it tightens then no problem.
The muzzle end is as easy to check.
I cannot believe a Cyrano would strip it's threads just by tightening.
But it is possible to twist the whole thing inside the outer barrel, twisting the inner barrel out of its housing and probably bending the trigger-pin at the same time and maybe the power selector plunger.
Check the pin and plunger to see if they are OK.
Even if the housing is sheared you can still assemble the gun by eye, relying on the threads to hold the two barrels in the right positions.

You might want to consider doing-away with the power selector, take out the switch and plunger, fill the hole with epoxy glue and remove the power plug thingy.
This will give the gun more power.

Edit: looking at the photo the pin and plunger seem OK, have a look in the end of the handle and see if anything looks chewed where the valve goes.

 

[Coral Sniper]

But it is possible to twist the whole thing inside the outer barrel

Thats what happened. It looks like inside the handle it is a little chewed up and also on the inner barrel around where the trigger touches to release the piston its chewed a ring around the out side of inner barrel, from all my twisting.

So I will remove the power selector and put it all back together. Any idea where I should fill the oil? From the back end with the valve out?

And what oil should I use? 5w ? Would sewing machine oil work?

Thanks Devondave

 

[popgun pete]

Well here is a tip for anyone contemplating doing what you have done, first let all the air out of the gun, then unscrew the muzzle. That lets you know that the barrel to muzzle threads have not seized on a used gun, only then do you tighten the muzzle up to close any gaps at the tank reservoir ends. However a small gap is normal at high gun pressure, all my guns show gaps when pumped right up, so nothing to worry about. When I let the air out the gaps close right up again.

When the inner barrel and muzzle turn as a single unit the square notch in the rear end of the inner barrel snaps the plastic indexing peg in the rear of the handle moulding. With that peg broken twisting the muzzle revolves the inner barrel's mechanism slot against the small diameter transmission pin from the trigger and puts a side load on the pin. Usually that will not happen if the inlet valve body has been tightened up to secure the inner barrel into the rear handle as then the inner barrel will resist being turned. If the trigger transmission pin is forced down or bent it will carve a small track around the rear end of the inner barrel tube. You could have cracked the transmission pin tunnel and the plastic threads that the sealing plate screws into that traps the sealing "O" ring for the trigger transmission pin in place, they are not designed for lateral loading.

Examine all the parts with a magnifying glass and reassemble the gun if there are no apparent cracks in the plastic parts and nothing is obviously bent. Try pressurizing the gun, any cracks will have oil blowing out through them before you have time to dunk the gun in water, but a water test will find slow leaks especially if you add a few drops of detergent to the water.

Any cracks in the handle and you will need a replacement upper handle and maybe a new transmission pin. You may be lucky and everything will be OK, but if the indexing peg is broken then you need to tighten the inlet valve body first, check that the inner barrel slot opening is still in the correct alignment, then tighten the muzzle up, then insert the trigger transmission pin. If the pin slides in OK then that tells you that the inner barrel has not twisted during re-assembly.

To avoid these problems always put grease on the muzzle to inner barrel threads. Mares put a white anti-seize compound on them, but most gun dismantlers wipe it off. Water can wick in along these threads and corrode them, that causes the muzzle to seize on the inner barrel. Prevention is always better than cure!

 

[devondave]

Only remove the power selector and power selector block if you want to.
Take care to seal the switch housing thoroughly or it will leak.
If you have twisted the two barrels be careful when putting it back together, make sure to lineup the trigger pivot with the trigger pin.

The easiest way to put oil in, is to suck up the correct amount in the air pump and just blast it into the gun through the air inlet valve.
That way the gun can be put back together first.
Motor bike fork oil is what most people use.
If you say the length of the gun I'll tell you how much to use.

 

[Coral Sniper]

Here is the trigger pin, is that what it should look like:crutch?

Thanks heaps for the help guys, I now understand, that muzzle should have come off, it is quite corroded in the cracks.

The guns a 110 and I searched around and found that it needs 30cc of oil? 2 Tbs. Good idea of pumping that oil straight in.

 

[devondave]

Um, I think your pin is Kaput.
Someone did say a bicycle spoke is the same diameter.
I've replaced one with a masonry nail.
The important thing is that it doesn't leak.

30cc sounds about right for a 110.

 

[Coral Sniper]

Haha, I may try to straighten it and see how it looks, but I get your idea it needs to be smooth so it seals.
Um the other thing to this nightmare is I still cant get the muzzle free? I had tried holding on to the rear-end of the inner barrel with rubber gloves while my friend tried to unscrew the muzzle with a screwdriver through the exhaust vents in the muzzle. No avail, just slips through my hands?
I have just sprayed it with penetrating oil and left it there. Any idea's?

 

[devondave]

Yeah, try spraying it with penetrating oil and leaving it.
It may have to go in a vice to give it that 'short jerk' kind of twist that sometimes does the trick.
Don't twist the barrel though.

 

[Coral Sniper]

All right, I made a new trigger pin out of a fishing line clip, works perfect! Epoxied the power regulator hole shut and put it all back together. I will put some air(and oil via pump) in tomorrow and check for leaks.

Thanks so much my friends, hope I am lucky and this all works out.

 

[popgun pete]

The ability to hold pressure will be the big test, I hope it works out for you. If you left the muzzle as is and just reassembled the gun then after you put some shots through it try the muzzle again. Sometimes the vibration from successive impacts will crack the corrosion deposits and you can unscrew the muzzle. It will not be a high priority, so do it when you have something else to fix or need to change the oil again. Sometimes the "frozen" muzzle is very hard to get off, I nearly destroyed one gun doing it.

 

[Coral Sniper]

I finally got it free. I gently used a vice grip on the rear end with the valve screwed in. It came right off, was not that bad.

Thanks for the help, I will post how it does tomorrow.

 

[devondave]

Coral sniper, did you remove the power regulator block Too?
The white round thing that sits between the two barrels, the plunger from the power switch goes into it.
You need to remove this to get the full benefit of no power regulator.
It can be a bit tricky to get off, but will increase the internal volume of the gun and give more power.
Don't forget with a 110 you need to be able to load it on full power now, so maybe not to pump it up as much.
The best way is to keep test loading the gun when filling with air until you decide that's enough, allow that it is more difficult to load in the water.
I found the best way to unload without bending the spear or shooting anyone, is to firmly clamp the spear in a vice, brace yourself, squeeze the trigger, then keeping braced, slowly walk backwards.

 

[Coral Sniper]

haha thankfully I removed that bit! I put 550 pumps in this morning should be around 15 bar. I did the bathtub test already, there were a few tine bubbles between the plastic muzzle and barrel, they went away after a minuet. Trigger was fine when I pulled it and everything else back there.
I will take it out fishing this afternoon, will post how it does, hopefully with fish!

I have had it around 25 bar before, was able to load it full power,(my foot would get a little sore though but no big deal)

I was thinking the same thing, test it with lower power and work my way up.

One question, with the power regulator out it should be harder to load then with the full power with the regulator in, right? Or does it load the same but allows more are to flow through when shot?

Thanks again

 

[Coral Sniper]

It worked! No air leaks at all!

I will pump it up to 20 bar or so as it needs a little more kick.


I went on a shore dive about 5 minuets from home, found most of these guys in my secret shipwreck spot!

Thanks for the help Devondave and Popgun pete, would not have got it going with out your help.

 

[Don Paul]

Nice going mate,

Cheers, Don Paul