So I see people saying that they use an anchor for their kayak but I see some people don't. I was thinking about just attaching a line from my wrist to the kayak or from the kayak to my polespear? If I don't have to use an anchor I would rather not. Some advice for a beginner please. Also what kind of line should I be using?
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Help with kayak setup for spearfishing.
- Thread starterShawnny_561
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- anchor kayak line polespear spearfishing
Thread Status: Hello
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It can take a long time to get an up-to-date response or contact with relevant users.
For any line that you use as a float line, you need to be using line that floats in water, the simplest is polypro which is cheap, floats very well and will do for all normal fishing. Some use PVC tubing, sealed at both ends with sometimes dyneema running through it for guaranteed strength and some use rubber tubing, again sealed at both ends and again sometimes run dyneema through it.
If you don't anchor your kayak you are effectively using your kayak as a giant SMB (surface marker bouy), which is perfectly doable....... if the conditions are right
In strong current and/or wind your kayak will move more quickly than you think under its own steam and potentially drag you along with it, which again is fine if that's what you want. If you intend to stay at a certain spot for any length of time in wind or current you will need to anchor your kayak, which is simple and safe enough with the right set up.
Remember the golden rule.................. anything that you don't want to loose must be tethered to the kayak
If you don't anchor your kayak you are effectively using your kayak as a giant SMB (surface marker bouy), which is perfectly doable....... if the conditions are right
In strong current and/or wind your kayak will move more quickly than you think under its own steam and potentially drag you along with it, which again is fine if that's what you want. If you intend to stay at a certain spot for any length of time in wind or current you will need to anchor your kayak, which is simple and safe enough with the right set up.Remember the golden rule.................. anything that you don't want to loose must be tethered to the kayak
I recommend splurging on the float line - get some good stuff from neptonics if you can afford it. Then attach that to your polespear or perhaps to your sliptip - depends what tips and how you fish. http://www.neptonicsystems.com/floatlines.php Reasons: it doesn't tangle, it stretches well, it's easy to store, it lasts long time, and by the way did I mention it doesn't tangle? Tangling can actually be deadly, so if you skimp on the floatline, be generous in your caution when in the water.
If you're near kelp, you can also get a kelp clip to clip the kayak to the kelp. http://www.neptonicsystems.com/kelp-clip.php
Most people will anchor with the following setup:
1) tuna clip with swivel to hook line to kayak (or tie on an end)
2) 100 foot of polypro line (and buy a lobster line reel or plastic wrappie thing when you want to store it or wind it up)
3) 6 feet of bungie tied to the end of the polypro to absorb wave and other shock without moving your anchor, and to allow some tension on the line. If you put tuna or quick clips on both ends this makes setting faster. . .
3) 6 feet of chain (rode) to help the anchor stay put
4) a small boat ball or other anchor - some get a 2lb plow, others use an extra dive weight, some use a coffee can with melted lead from tire balancing weights - well you get the idea.
Alternately, you could also buy this anchor ($12) http://www.makospearguns.com/Mini-Folding-Anchor-p/mfa.htm
and this reel with line ($25) http://www.makospearguns.com/Utility-Reel-p/mur.1.htm, about 5 feet of chain, and a bungee and I think you'd have a slick setup. for about $45. . .
If you're near kelp, you can also get a kelp clip to clip the kayak to the kelp. http://www.neptonicsystems.com/kelp-clip.php
Most people will anchor with the following setup:
1) tuna clip with swivel to hook line to kayak (or tie on an end)
2) 100 foot of polypro line (and buy a lobster line reel or plastic wrappie thing when you want to store it or wind it up)
3) 6 feet of bungie tied to the end of the polypro to absorb wave and other shock without moving your anchor, and to allow some tension on the line. If you put tuna or quick clips on both ends this makes setting faster. . .
3) 6 feet of chain (rode) to help the anchor stay put
4) a small boat ball or other anchor - some get a 2lb plow, others use an extra dive weight, some use a coffee can with melted lead from tire balancing weights - well you get the idea.
Alternately, you could also buy this anchor ($12) http://www.makospearguns.com/Mini-Folding-Anchor-p/mfa.htm
and this reel with line ($25) http://www.makospearguns.com/Utility-Reel-p/mur.1.htm, about 5 feet of chain, and a bungee and I think you'd have a slick setup. for about $45. . .
If you are planning to leave the kayak unattended, you'll like need some kind of anchor/tether.
If you have a 2 seater kayak, another option is to have a "co-pilot" to manage the yak while the other dives.
If you have a 2 seater kayak, another option is to have a "co-pilot" to manage the yak while the other dives.
I just posted a few anchoring thoughts on another thread, but they will be useful here as well... Yes, you need an anchor if you ever want to leave the kayak... my opinion; tethering to a kayak is very inhibitive to diving as soon as the slightest breeze comes up.
The diameter and length of the anchor line are important. 1/4" hollow braid polypro is perfect for a kayak. Ideally your line length should be 4x or even 5x longer than the depth of the water where you plan to anchor (Example: Anchor in 20' water, your anchor line should be 80-100'). The line length is not a big deal when things are calm... but as soon as current starts running, or especially when the wind comes up (and the wind always comes up), your boat wants to blow away... the length helps absorb these changes, plus adds insurance against a rising tide, large boat wakes, etc.
Also, very important, your anchor should be attached first to a couple of meters of heavy chain, 3/8" is great... make sure you get galvanized chain, not plated... the chain keeps the head/shank of the anchor on the bottom even if current or wind are tugging the anchor line, and this keeps the anchor from pulling free. It is a long explanation if you are not familiar with anchoring boats, but look up "anchoring" and "anchor scope" at a couple of boating/sailing forums... a kayak is a boat subject to all the same forces and rules, you will get a good education there.
A final thought... there are a couple of styles of small kayak-appropriate anchors available... some are designed more for rocky bottoms, some are designed more for sand... make sure you get an appropriate anchor design for where you intend to dive. There is a good article on anchoring and anchors at WestMarine.com
The diameter and length of the anchor line are important. 1/4" hollow braid polypro is perfect for a kayak. Ideally your line length should be 4x or even 5x longer than the depth of the water where you plan to anchor (Example: Anchor in 20' water, your anchor line should be 80-100'). The line length is not a big deal when things are calm... but as soon as current starts running, or especially when the wind comes up (and the wind always comes up), your boat wants to blow away... the length helps absorb these changes, plus adds insurance against a rising tide, large boat wakes, etc.
Also, very important, your anchor should be attached first to a couple of meters of heavy chain, 3/8" is great... make sure you get galvanized chain, not plated... the chain keeps the head/shank of the anchor on the bottom even if current or wind are tugging the anchor line, and this keeps the anchor from pulling free. It is a long explanation if you are not familiar with anchoring boats, but look up "anchoring" and "anchor scope" at a couple of boating/sailing forums... a kayak is a boat subject to all the same forces and rules, you will get a good education there.
A final thought... there are a couple of styles of small kayak-appropriate anchors available... some are designed more for rocky bottoms, some are designed more for sand... make sure you get an appropriate anchor design for where you intend to dive. There is a good article on anchoring and anchors at WestMarine.com
I have anchored up in quite strong currents and always found that a 1.5Kg folding anchor, 2 meters of chain, then the anchor line worked excellently. The chain is bulky but essential in my opinion, it helps to keep bottom as billder99 says and it also allows the kayak to move up and down with swell or waves without stressing the anchor line. I am very confident that my anchor setup could have handled a lot more than I subjected it to. Good luck and dive safe.
Good luck and dive safe.
Another more simple way of anchoring a lightweight kayak or inflatable is to tie a piece of rope, 3/8 is easy on the hands, to a downrigger weight around 8 to 10 pounds, just chuck it over the side and let out another 15 feet after it hits the bottom, then swim down and jam the ball in a crack between 2 rocks. Scope is unimportant, it’s more like you are on a mooring rather than anchored, remember kayaks and inflatables don’t weigh very much at all so they don’t stress the ground tackle like a sailboat for example. The only place the lead ball is a problem is on a pure smooth sand bottom, but most kayak divers drop the hook on a reef so it seems to work out.
Like these? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Downrigger
Couldn't find many images. Like this without all the fishing adornment?
Couldn't find many images. Like this without all the fishing adornment?
I didn’t see a picture of he actual weight or cannonball in the info you sent along, but yeah a downrigger weight is generally just a simple cannonball shape made of lead with a metal hoop embedded in it for an attachment point to hook a cable up that goes up to the actual downrigger. Some of the weights have a little fin on them to keep them from spinning as they are dragged thru the water.
I've also used a coated kettle-bell and a 3# rubber coated dumbell... they work fine... right now I'm using a 3.5# folding anchor. ... good point above, there is no real load on grounding tackle with a kayak.
Interesting. Kettle bell weights are currently easy to find in the UK. They are frequently sold in Lidl and Tesco for ~£10 depending on size. Tesco regularly puts some sizes on sale and sell off any remaining fitness gear at the end of season.